wayoverthere

It's still there....you'll have to hit the "gear" button at the top left of the map, and toggle the option for "show stale repeaters" or "show offline".

To be fair, from what @over2u showed, it's presented both in terms of the raw tone, and the corresponding code number that's used by one of the more common manufacturers. it does also tie with what @lscott mentioned about setting things up ahead of time.l, rather than trying to fumble through it in the time of need. It also does mention it's not intended as a 911-type channel, more for SAR to be able to contact the person they're looking for.

Yep, one of the limitations of btech's method of locking down for 95e certification...the gmrs 50x1 has the same limitation.

Google turned up this doc, which may match up with the tones on the Motorola. You could put the code number on the Motorola, and the corresponding tone on the btech, and see if it gets through still. https://www.cert-la.com/downloads/radio/FRS-GMRS-Frequency-Chart.pdf

It should be possible My first thought is there is a PL tone set on the Motorola, so it's expecting a tone the btech isn't sending. The btech, onthe other hand, is listening with no filter, so it hears the Motorola. If you can't find the tone settings in the Moto menu, I believe v1 can scan for the code (I'll try to dig up the manual later on the computer, if someone doesn't beat me to it)

One of those "reporting difference between dbi and dbd" things maybe? marketing reporting vs actual, kind of like the Midland "up to 35 mile range" labeling.

Thanks for the link.

Good luck! I have my eye on general as well, and started doing some of the practice tests ok the Hamstudy app last night. Also have the 'easy way ham book' for general to study, with an eye toward a VE session at the end of Feb in the next town over.

I definitely have a few places I've learned from my mistakes, mostly due to lack of research, and jumping at what seemed like a good price...and paid in extra effort and/ or frustration instead.

20A continuous is more than enough for a 50 watt mobile. One of the users that has a KG1000G can say better than i can what they've seen for current draw, but in the ballpark of 10-11 amps is what sticks in my head. my 50 watt rated Btech shows just shy of 10 amp draw on high power, and around the same for my 45 and 50 watt rated vertex mobiles. onto the multiple radio question: just as you're thinking, i wanted to size up to have some headroom for ham gear. the big consideration is looking at the most current you'll be drawing at once, and keeping that under the continuous rating of your power supply. if you think there's a chance you'd be transmitting high power on more than one radio at a time, you might want a little more headroom. I'm currently running 3 45 and 50 watt rated mobile radios from an Alinco (I believe it's the DM30TR) with the same 20A continuous, 30A peak. I'm only ever transmitting on 1 at a time, so that's more than enough headroom for me; with all 3 scanning/listening, draw runs around 0.5A. I want to say i've seen a couple other members mention this Tekpower PSU working well for their setups. once you get into bigger wattage, the current draw gets bigger as well, so it may be better to size up more depending what you have in mind (one of those buy once, cry once kind of things). on switching versus linear regulated, i've seen no difference in noise with this switching PSU, generally the reputable brands' models designed for radio will do fairly well at avoiding noise. both my Alinco and that Tekpower have a 'noise offset' to move any 'birdies' you may run into, but even testing back to back battery vs psu, i haven't found any noise in gmrs. haven't tested back to back on the ham stuff, but i haven't noticed anything from the PSU either (though i have other noise around, definitely).

Glad to help ?

I'll try to poke at mine tonight, see what it shows with the dummy load. I know the sw102 is showing 1.04 with the new 60 watt rated dummy load, I think I remember the 5 watt showing 1:1...we'll see what i find. edit: tested across both dummy loads (5 watt and 60 watt) and both meters (sw33 and sw102)...channels 1 and 21RP, on my kg805g. sw33: 1.01 on the 5 watt, 1.26 on the 60 watt. sw102: 1.05 on the 5 watt, 1.0 on the 60 watt appears the sw33 does not display lower than 1.01, as far as i'm seeing.

So...when you mention signal from another radio, are you talking another radio in the same room? Or signal from a repeater? If the former, you could be having a desense situation, with the very close signal effectively making the receiving radio "deaf". Outside of that, I think I've seen reports where radios had shipped from the manufacturer with codes (ctcss or DCs) set from the factory, and some radios will show receiving a signal without opening squelch if the incoming signal doesn't match the code set on that channel....worth double checking that.

Given that the exact same lights aren't a issue on the zj, can you bypass the spod to rule out there being some change in the manufacturing on this set vs the other set? If it's still there with the spod bypassed, that points to the lights; if it goes away, that points toward the spod. From there, What is your input power source for the spod, compared to the zj? Is it an issue when the vehicle is running, ignition on not running, or on and off? Thinking of alternator noise vs other noise sources on the input, and ruling out other things besides the spod itself that might be feeding into the spod.

The one I use isn't a fan, even down to not having taut tie-downs in the bed. Upside of the mag mounts is I can just pull them off and toss them on the passenger seat while I go through, and then stick them back up.

I wonder how it defines a "network", given it mentions capacity for 8 networks, and let's you define the wide/narrow on a per-network basis

On the 8180, does it program with "zones"? If so, why not have a normal set of wideband channels, then do another zone of narrowband channels? On the 935, couldn't you do another set of narrow channels in addition to the wide channels, and perhaps exclude them from your normal scanning? Edit: looks like @Lscottand I were thinking along the same line at the same time.

Forgot about the dbr2500 too, good catch.

Think of it as a not too expensive learning tool. While it is a bit feature limited, if it does what you need it to then no need for more. If not, it helps show what features are needed in the next one. I have one as well. It served it's purpose, and it's still on the shelf as a backup now. Power wise, on a good antenna, 15 watts can do quite well. I tend to run the ham mobile on mid power (15 watts), and had no problem getting a "loud and clear" report on a repeater 60ish miles way on a vhf 1/4 wave, while for another closer 70cm, I just run low (5 watts). In the other car, a 5 watt handheld into an external antenna is enough to get by.

While I can't argue their time in the industry,their customer support, or their being pretty much the top on out of the box simplicity, I question the statement about Midland's stuff not being "a modified ham radio or other CCR based chip radio" to be universally applicable. Take a look at the mxt400 and the tyt th-9000d (which also has a retevis twin) for example, as they appear to be hardware twins. I haven't seen a twin to the mxt115, while the 275 appears to be sold down under as a cb...I also want to say I saw something about it being sold under another brand name, but it's slipping my mind at the moment. I suspect with some digging we'd find a hardware twin to the mxt500 as well.

So..mid power showed 18.7 watts into the antenna, and 23.5 into the dummy load. Interestingly, the power drop on high is a bit slower into the dummy load compared to the antenna ?

One small note on the 2x4sr: they don't come with a spring out of the package, but comet does offer a spring kit sized to replace the bottom bit of whip without affecting the tuning. Haven't used mine on MURS, but it's done well for ham and gmrs.

I think the full keypad ones (evx) have that, but I haven't dug into those as much; the basic 4 key VX dont appear to, while one of the full keypad vx, there is a fpp menu accessible by holding a button at startup that allows access to a lot of settings, tones included.

My only gripes are minor...the fan is kind of noisy as a base (one reason it's in the truck...not noticeable with the body behind the seat), and the menu is a little wonky, but nothing insurmountable...kind of get the hang of it. Programming from the face isn't bad,though I grabbed RT software on sale too. I will say shop around for mounts (most are separate) and they vary depending on retailer...the one that has the best price on the radio isn't always cheapest on mounts.

Everything I've heard about the Kenwood has been good, but no direct experience. I have a pair of monoband vertex (vx4207/4204) for my 'base', and an icom 2730 in the truck.