wayoverthere

https://www.buytwowayradios.com/blog/2023/11/2023-cyber-holiday-sale.html#GR Discounts on the kg1000g plus, kg935g plus, and kg805.

Was trying to remember which one I had, as I have the 2m/1.25m flavor. Both that and my kg805g do the same battery drain as well. I just store them in a shelf with the batteries removed

What was in the old truck was an Icom 2730a/Comet SBB-5 on a fender mount and Anytone AT779UV/MXTA10 on a mag mount, centered on the roof for GMRS. I've changed antennas a few times; used a mag mount prior to the fender mount (centered), which at various times ran the 2x4sr, 1/4 wave signal stalk, Comet SBB-1, and a Laird BB4303 (a small 5/8 wave for 430-450mhz, with the 2nd for GMRS offset to the passenger side for GMRS (which has also carried a Browning BR-1713-BS (double 5/8 wave with a 410-490mhz bandwidth). I also occasionally ran an old radio shack CB and mag mount antenna, offset to the driver's side. (note: when i first got my tech, i was running a dual certified Vertex VX4207 for ham & GMRS, hence some of the single band antennas) Current plan: incoming FTM-500 + SBB-5 on the a fender mount; haven't figured out mounting for a second antenna yet, so GMRS is on hold, but it'll likely be the Anytone/MXTA10 combo again there unless i can find space for the vertex. GMRS is fairly quiet in my area, unfortunately, much more of the "bring your own contacts" situation. Icom is currently in my shack, but will go to better half's car (with a mag mount and the signal stalk), and the FTM400 that WAS headed for the truck will stay on shack duty. I've been eyeing UV920P too (mainly for 220 capability), but at least at current discounts, it's not a big jump to yaesu (FTM-6000R is currently $259, vs $239 for the 920p). There doesn't seem to be a TON of options for DMR mobiles; the Anytone 578 is a common choice, and the bluetooth display/mic simplifies the mounting/mic situation some. If you're okay diving into commercial software, maybe consider a Vertex VXD-7200; this one is a 403-470mhz, so good for ham bands, and it'll be part 90 approved (though i don't think this one 95a certified). if you've looked at motorola's XPR line, it should look pretty familiar, especially the power and antenna connectors. I have no experience with TYT, so I can't say what their reliability is like. If you aren't using it to transmit, having it tuned close should be more than good enough. Terrain between you and the repeater, and where the repeater is sited will play a big part in getting through. I've managed 60+ mile shots on that "3db" MXTA10, that or longer on 5 watt handhelds (both GMRS and 70cm), and 120ish over the valley on the Comet 2x4SR (on 70cm with 15 watts). have also responded to a couple SOTA (summits on the air) calls with the comet on 146.520, providing contacts for people 70-80 miles away near the national parks. IMO, the KG1000G is the radio to get if you want a full power GMRS mobile. Midland used to be solid, though seem to be having a few issues with some newer batches, my biggest issue is (lack of) flexibility/features. I and a couple others haven't had good luck with the Btech mobiles. Remote heads are awesome for flexibility in mobile installs,too, which leads back to running GMRS separate, do a single band antenna appropriate for that (which will still receive NOAA alright) and set up 2m/70cm separately when you're go for that.

Honestly, the only ones covering gmrs that I've seen with a gain over 5db (even measuring in dBi, which will post a higher number than dBd) is midland's mxta26 at 6db and being a 5/8 over 5/8 wave, and the previously mentioned comet 2x4sr. The key with the Midland is getting it direct from Midland, not via amazon. The only complaints I've seen with that antenna were people that got it via amazon, and got used/damaged/modified returns. I found a couple 2m/70cm mobile antennas on dx engineering with gains over 7dbi on 70cm (comet sbb-7 is one), but I'd be afraid of the swr jumping pretty fast once you passed 450mhz. I know that Laird I have rated for 430-450 climbs fast. In the end, I mostly ran 2 antennas and 2 radios; one for 2m & 70cm, and 1 for gmrs. I currently have almost all of it down, though, as I'm transitioning between vehicles....cleared out the old and still getting things set up on the new (and waiting on a recent radio purchase, too).

Comet has been solid for me so far. The 2x4sr isn't super on swr at the high end, tradeoff for the wide bandwidth. Laird have been good as well, and would be my go-to for single band stuff. Diamond..the HT antenna has been good. The mobile (nr72b, iirc), I can't get a decent number on 2m for anything, mag mount, hard mount, bracket, whatever. It's currently on the shelf...good for 70cm limited clearance I guess. I suspect the older Midland 3db whip (5/8 wave mxta10) was a contracted manufacture by someone commercial, it looks very similar to the lairds in build. I also have one Browning (possibly before they were merged with Tram? Not sure) seems to be good quality and holding up well; 2x5/8 wave, with 410-490 bandwidth.

Since most gmrs gear is really just repurposed from another service with some tweaks for certification, it's going to depend on the limitations of the base hardware. Look at wouxun...kg805g being based on a single band radio, while the kg1000g receives 10., 6m, 2m, and 70cm in addition to gmrs (being based on the quad band uv980p)

I want to say I have the same one for my 2m/1.25m wouxun...have to double check in a few.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3158987/Retevis-Ra87.html#menu_function_list The "programmable vfo" line info seems to agree with this answer...400-480mhz (uhf) only.

Not to mention that antenna and cable improvements help both transmit and receive. For illustration, I tested some unlabeled cable (15 or 17ft) that came with a Midland mirror mount. With 43 watts measured at the radio, it measured 23 watts at the antenna end. Switching to a 35 foot piece of abr400 (and all other factors the same), I now had 35 watts at the antenna.

Broadcastify.com I think most of the "scanner" apps get their audio feeds from there too.

What about mounting off to the left in that view? Thinking 2 or 3 sections of top rail for the mast; it'll cost a little extra in coax, but I'd want to get it away from those utility lines, both for potential RFI and for drop hazard. That attic vent could be a nice spot for the coax to exit, though.

Not sure about Madera, but Fresno PD and fire are also still largely analog (on uhf), if you get bored.

BNC seems to be pretty common with some of the portable hf gear; the xiegu x6100 and g106 do, elecraft's new kh1 does, and iirc, the icom 705 does as well.

TL/DR: minor gripes with how they report inventory, and shipping. no direct experience with their customer service, as I haven't needed to use it. My only complaint with Radioddity relates to their website. I ordered a Xiegu G106 and DE-19 package deal, which they showed as having US stock, with 5-7 day shipping (iirc, on the shipping). However, it shipped from China instead, and according to the tracking took 3 or 4 days just to get dropped at the shipper. Total time was just over 2 weeks to actually receive it. Partially my bad for cutting it close, but I was kind of hoping to participate in one of the contest weekends, but the radio didn't get here in time...I skipped ordering from Amazon because the price difference would have been over $100. Aside from the G106, I also ordered a GD73 dmr radio from them awhile back. Got hit with a foreign transaction fee by my credit card on that one (didn't realize at that point they were international), then problems with DHL about delivering the radio (shipped to a PO box). also had a bear of a time setting up the radio, between not a ton of into for it, and me having zero idea with DMR codeplugs. That surprise foreign transaction fee put me off for a long time, but it looks like they've added paypal support between then and when i gave in on the G106.

I think you're probably in the ballpark on their reasoning. The console is a good way to hide wires, too, especially if the radio body is going to hide under a front seat. For my truck, my modifications were dropping a relay in the path to one of the receptacles so it would shut off with the key (normally, both are hot at all times). Given your Lincoln shuts off power after the delay, I'm thinking going as far as relay is unnecessary, but you could put a switch in line with hot side of the radio wiring to effectively "disconnect" it when you want to. The difficulty is where to put a switch, and insulating the back side of it, depending where you decide to hide it...still looking for ideas on that.

If they're indeed each fused for 20 amps, the receptacles should be able to handle the 575 no problem (50 watts is usually around 10-11amps draw on full power). From there, the weak point is likely a 12v plug. I would want to 'improve' inside the plug so that little spring inside isn't the sole current path. Alternately, if the back side of any of the three receptacles are easily accessed, perhaps tapping the wires behind the scenes would be an easy minimal impact option, depending on the connectors. My older truck is also a ford product, and used basic spades on the back of the 12v sockets, which made for easy modifications; I'm thinking in terms of a short bit of a Y harness between the existing wiring and the receptacle, to give the radio somewhere to plug in but keep the socket usable when it isn't radio time. if you can match connectors, it could easily be removed without a trace, too. in terms of mounting, ProClips has a couple options that could work well for the mic/display; the high center mount might work well for the KG1000G remote head, though this side mount may be better suited for the midland. just throwing out some ideas...hope it helps, but feel free to disregard if not.

FCC rules is the answer. Receiving almost anywhere you want is fine (the old analog cell bands being an exception), but transmit is the kicker. For gmrs, the radio needs part 95e certification, which disallows the ability to transmit on any non-certified services (aka ham). Dual certified radios were a thing, but more common under old rules (when gmrs was under 95a); there are still a few older models floating around (mostly Kenwood and Motorola) certified for 90 (LMR/public safety) & 95a, but they'll be uhf only, and mostly require taking a gamble on used equipment.

There's a couple listed near Auberry, but you have to have the "show stale repeaters" toggle turned on (this is the case for the Park Ridge machines as well, which are both listed as open. Auberry 575 is listed as open, while Sierra 2 is listed as permission required. Both listings have the same frequency and tone, though, so I'm not sure if it changed hands and an old listing wasn't removed or what. I also found a new listing for the Joaquin Ridge machine with the "stale" option turned on.

Park Ridge 700 is said to have the better range. Park Ridge 675 is the secondary machine. There used to be one on Joaquin Ridge near Coalinga that was called Central1, which I've been able to reach from Tulare on a handheld, but I don't see it listed anymore. I think I saw something previously about it being a "legacy repeater" as the owner had passed away and that they were trying to put things in place to keep it running, but it looks like they were not successful.

I'll have to look at what they're called, but TCARC has a couple on park ridge that may be in range

You have headroom to spare. (Time for another radio? ) My 20 watt rated at779uv runs around 5A draw on high, and even my 45 and 50 watt radios (btech, vertex, icom) don't top 11A on high power. Haven't checked the idle draw for the anytone, but with 2 vertex single band vhf/uhf radios and a btech 50x1 all monitoring, my psu was only showing around 0.5A draw (yes, half an Amp).

There's one from Alaska I hear on nets sometimes that uses "Frozen Radio" for the FR in his call

So...I still stand by the statement that RIch can best say what that section of the site will and will not accept in that box. That said, I created a "Test" repeater listing to be able to poke at the settings (marked it offline, etc). Still not sure what kind of code it's using, but I did successfully create a link with the little "chain" icon (4th from the top right, in blue in the screenshot). typed in the text I wanted, highlighted it, hit the link button, and pasted in the url I wanted it to point to. Seems to have worked: Hope it's at least a little bit of help.

If you have some roof rack bars/rails, those may help with keeping the cable off the roof between the mount and tucking into the hatch. That may bring it back to a lip mount being the best option. This comet has a short section of thin cable to help with squeezing past the seal, and limits the amount of cable available outside to rub. Closer to the hinge also limits how much you need loose to allow range of movement with the hatch, but may complicate routing while leaving a drip loop. (I know...Always compromises somewhere) Back to mag mounts, though, I've largely used Midland mag mounts, have to check the brand on one other (edit: it's a Browning), along with a late 90's radio shack mag mount and cb antenna. Even with antennas up to 3 ft, comet 2x4sr or double 5/8 Browning, the only time I've had one come loose was when the whip directly and solidly hit something, like a good sized branch. Lots of light hits with no movement. I can't see something like a "hatpin" 1/4 wave having enough leverage to knock the mount loose, and is only 6" tall. On the hatch, you can likely get by with a 1/2 wave (which tend to be around 12-15" for 450-470 mhz) and still clear the garage.

I'll also suggest protecting the point where the cable turns the corner into the hatch. Been running mag mounts (1, 2 or 3) on my truck for the past 3 years or so, and you can see the "rub" where it turns to tuck in behind the door seal