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WyoJoe

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WyoJoe last won the day on June 11

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  1. The cigarette lighter plug only puts out a marginal amount of current, typically no more than 10 amps, and often, quite a bit less. At 12 VDC, 10 amps should provide about 120W, but I've seen lesser loads blow the fuse, so I expect many lighter plugs are fused and rated for less than that. For a CB or handheld radio with about 5 watts output, the current would be sufficient. When you get to about 25W, the current just to transmit is about 2 watts, but the radio consumes more power than that. That's likely still within the limit of the lighter plug, but it's pushing that limit. A 50W radio will require about twice the current, often exceeding what the lighter plug can provide reliably. Even though your radio is rated at 40W, some reviews have stated that it can put out more than that, so I think it would also likely exceed what the lighter plug can provide. I would recommend hard wiring it.
  2. I agree with what Michael already said, for GMRS the individual entries for each repeater aren't terribly difficult. If you're using Chirp, you can download the FRS/GMRS standard frequencies to your file, then to add repeaters, just copy the appropriate repeater line from the ones you downloaded, change the tones and channel name, and it's done. It only takes a few seconds for each one since you can copy one of the eight repeater channels from the aforementioned download. The good part about GMRS is that there are only 8 repeater frequency combinations, so the only things that change with them are the tones.
  3. WyoJoe

    New Licensee

    Welcome Michael. If all goes well, it should only take a couple of days for the system to catch up.
  4. If you have a receive code set on one radio, the other radio will require that you set the same code on transmit in order to open the squelch on the receiving radio. If you turn off the receive code, then you don't need a code on the transmitting radio either. Basically, your settings are determined by the receiving radio. If a code is set, then the radio rejects incoming transmissions unless the transmitting radio is sending the code required by the receiving radio. If the receiving radio's code is off, then it should receive any transmission on that frequency, regardless of whether or not the transmitting radio is sending a code.
  5. Something to keep in mind... A majority of passengers take radios on board with them. They're commonly referred to as "cell phones" or "smart phones." Although the format of your HT is different, it functions in essentially the same way. The TSA may disagree, but I don't see any reason why your HT should be treated any differently that a phone. As for putting radios in checked baggage, you have to be careful if they have lithium batteries. I believe they are prohibited in checked baggage and must be carried on the plane with you.
  6. You can't set up a cross-band repeater in GMRS, because doing so requires two different bands (typically UHF/VHF). GMRS is entirely UHF, so there is no VHF band to cross over to within the GMRS band. You could set up an in-band repeater in your vehicle and remain within the GMRS band. This could be done with either the Retevis RT-97 Repeater or a custom build consisting of two radios, a duplexer, and for some builds, a controller. The second option is simply a mobile version of a regular GMRS repeater. I suppose a third option would be a Vertex VXR-7000 or some other commercial repeater unit, but it would likely be rather large for a mobile application. Any of these options would obviously also require an antenna.
  7. The Retevis RA25 appears to be the same radio as the Anytone AT-779UV, which is available in a GMRS version. The Retevis version is about $80 on their website at the moment, so it's probably the cheapest repeater compatible mobile radio available. I have the Anytone version, and am relatively satisfied with it. The Anytone came with a programming cable, but I don't know if the Retevis does. There are much better mobile radios available, but generally not at this price point. Things I like about this model are the small size, decent output power (~20W), programmability and configurability, and the decent color screen, which is not too hard to read for my 50+ year old eyes. The things I'm not crazy about are relatively minor. The radio has a dual watch function (like a Baofeng UV-5R), but I haven't figured out how to set it up for my preferences. It's probably something I can change with the programming software, but I haven't found that option yet. The other thing I would like to change, and it may happen someday, is that you can't program it with Chirp. I've used Chirp for many other radios, and since I'm familiar with it, I'd like to use it with this radio. So far, it doesn't work (for me, at least). The "factory" software isn't as user friendly, so I would rather not have to use it. As for the receiver, I suspect that it's on par with most handheld CCRs, but it works well for me. With that said, I'm in an area with little radio traffic. For your travels, it would likely work well in those areas without cell reception, and most other areas, too. You could possibly encounter problems with the receiving capabilities in larger cities, if you're traveling through them. I haven't had mine in that environment, so I can't give a report on that. Overall, I'd recommend this radio as a step up from the low-end Midland 5W micro-mobile units, especially considering that it hits a similar price point. You get programmability with it, and the ability to program it to use repeaters. You also get more power than a handheld radio, and this one comes with a hand mic. About the only other thing you'll need is to add an external antenna, then you should be good to go. You can find inexpensive external antennas, so for two radios and two antennas, you can probably outfit both vehicles for less than $250. It would likely cost a bit more to go with the KG-805G, once you add external antennas, battery eliminators, and hand mics. For that, you may get a better receiver, but you also get lower output power.
  8. I've posted a couple of links below to "teardown" videos I found on YouTube. I believe the second link is the one I used when I took my UV-82 apart. I didn't find anything specific to Wouxon radios, but I expect they are similar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQSUjU7-iXs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvRocFQHOy0&t=24s
  9. I don't have a KG805G radio, but I do have a KG-UV9G, and looking at it, it appears that the case does indeed snap together. I suspect the same is true of the 805. The only similar type of radio that I've disassembled is a Baofeng UV-82 that I had in a storage bin and I found that water got into it, and the radio was soaking in the water for an unknown amount of time. With nothing to lose, I took the radio apart slowly and deliberately so I could clean it up. If I remember correctly, I took pictures as I did so, for reference when reassembling it. I carefully placed the bits and pieces on a cotton towel, so they wouldn't roll around on my "workbench" (kitchen counter). Once I got the radio apart, I cleaned everything as well as I could with the things I had on hand. When I put it back together, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the radio "worked" although the audio quality was poor. The built-in microphone didn't work, but the radio did work with an external (hand) mic. Before I disassembled the Baofeng, I did find a guide online outlining how to do so. I don't recall where I found it, but it did help me know how to deal with things like the antenna jack (it needs a spanner type device to remove the "nut" that threads onto the outside of the jack). If you can find a guide like that, even if it's for a Baofeng, it will probably be similar and should be helpful to you. Also, please remember that you may not need to disassemble your radio completely, but rather only enough to blow out the debris from the display. Once you've accomplished that, you can reassemble it carefully.
  10. That makes sense.
  11. I suspect they are using "blister pack" or "bubble pack" FRS radios.
  12. Good points all around. My thought of using the drop in charger would be gutting pretty much everything internal and only connecting leads to the charger's contacts, which could then be tied to the battery analyzer.
  13. It's just a hunch, but I'm guessing you're in SoCal, somewhere around the Inland Empire???
  14. If you have several radios of the same type, each with a drop-in charger, you might be able to repurpose one of the chargers for this application. For instance, I have several UV-82 radios, so repurposing one of the chargers I have wouldn't be a big deal for me. I question the capacity of some of the radio batteries I've bought over the years, but even more than that, I question the capacity of many of the 18650 batteries I've seen for sale. Many claim to have a 4500 mAH rating (or higher), but are priced quite a bit lower than others claiming a 2500 mAH rating. If they claim to get much above 3500 mAH, then I take the rating with a grain of salt, because that's about as high as I've seen the ratings go for the higher quality brands. In general, I've found that if the price seems too good to be true, then it is. I've also seen similar claims for the "lumen" rating of flashlights. Most of the ones I've seen on Amazon and eBay appear to be overrated. Perhaps they only achieve their rated output when powered by a 9000 mAH 18650 battery.🤔
  15. Mine is the "Lite" version. Good point about the Pro version...
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