SteveShannon

Here’s a video from Notarubicon about the AR152. Note that at about the 20 minute mark he discusses using Chirp and which radio the AR152 “self identifies“ as. And yes, wrkw566 is exactly right. Save the initial and various versions of the data as you program with any software.

Tell chirp it’s a UV5R and see if that works. If not, try F8-HP. Read from it first!

You don’t need to see them. Line of sight means that UHF radio waves travel in a mostly straight line. Lower frequencies frequently bounce off layers of the atmosphere; UHF cannot be relied upon to do that. It pierces through the atmosphere and travels farther without attenuating. Hams use VHF and UHF to communicate to the space station or to bounce signals off the moon. Nor does UHF follow the curvature of the Earth. A half mile is seldom the outer limit, but under certain circumstances it might be. On the other hand many of us frequently enjoy ranges of several or even many miles. Most people get GMRS radios for communications while they’re doing other things, like hiking, fishing, off roading, or recovering rockets out in the wide open spaces.

If you’re testing by talking on one G21 while listening on the other G21 (or almost any two radios really) you stand an excellent chance of desensing the receiving radio while transmitting on the other radio. This results in a failure to hear yourself on the receiving radio, but allows things transmitted by the repeater afterwards to get through. Try giving one radio to someone half a block away and test again.

Modeling software is only as good as the input data, the assumptions used when writing code to do calculations, and the various databases that the software use. Reality has infinite data, your modeling software uses 200 gigabytes. For modeling propagation you should only consider it a general guide, never as specific as your own tests. It cannot have every vehicle, rock, tree, shrub, atmospheric moisture, or new construction and it cannot accurately predict how your exact combination of equipment will work.

Hi Mac, It usually helps to post a more detailed question rather than relying on what can be a cryptic title. There have been a few radios where the power outputs of programmed channels appear to be recalibrated after programming. I don’t recall if the AR-152 is one of those. Some posts have even mentioned that the result seemed like the power output was inverted after programming, so high power in the menu put out less power than low power. I’ve never experienced that with Chirp but that’s not to say that others haven’t. If that’s not what your title alludes to, please give us more detail. You’ll find that most of us here enjoy trying to help answer questions. Disregard those who react negatively.

Why don’t you simply not post if you’re just going to insult people? Sometimes you’re helpful but then you post something like this that’s mostly just vitriolic. You’re bad for this site, but more importantly your comments make me wonder for your own mental health. I hope you can figure it out.

My first suggestion would be to try repeater-builder: https://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/index.html

First, the repeater input “DPL” is on the menu T-DCS. It must be correct or the repeater will ignore your transmission. Similarly, the repeater output “DPL” is set on the R-DCS menu, but you could leave it completely unset and your radio will reproduce everything it hears on frequency. Once you’re on the correct channel, push the green (left) menu button to get into menu mode. Then use the center rocker (up and down) to step through the individual menus. When you get to T-DCS press the left, green, button to select that menu. Then use the up/down button until you find the correct DCS code (DPL is just another name for DPL). Confirm your choice with the left (green) button. Once you’ve confirmed it, use the Blue button on the right to back out of the lower menus. It’s just like Windows cascaded menus. Green GOs deeper and Blue BACKs out. Do the same thing for R-DCS if you want. It’s just another menu. Welcome to the forum!

Are you using the browser on your phone, Tapatalk, or a browser on your computer? In every case you must (as @OffRoaderX pointed out above) enable your device to provide your location to whatever app is expecting a location. If you’re using an iPhone I can show you where that is in Settings. It’s under Privacy Settings, then Location, and then pick the app and enable it at the level you feel comfortable with. I select “while using“ usually.

Well no, the only response to his request for help yesterday was your snarky comment which wasn’t helpful. It’s pretty hard to understand how you could scold anyone for asking something twice when you say the same thing in nearly every post with the same shitty attitude towards others.

Good catch, Gil. I was wrong. He has 1-8 set as repeater channels. 9-15 are set for simplex. I would clear out tones at first though.

Edited: 1-8 would only work through a repeater. If you want to transmit directly from one radio to another you must have the transmit and receive frequencies the same.

That’s pretty cool. AircraftSpruce is where I get my fiberglass lamination supplies and I really like their products.

On my Ram with a tall topper I use a Midland magnetic base NMO mount (MXTA12 I think) and a Midland MXTA26 antenna for GMRS. It’s a great combination. I place the mag mount on the center of the roof, but I wouldn’t hesitate to move it to the back or to use a hood mount or 3rd brake light mount to avoid a moonroof. My radio is a Radioddity db20g, which is inexpensive and fairly easy to use, but has an abysmal software package. Fortunately the software is free, because it’s not worth more. But the MXTA26 is worthless for 2 meter vhf. So, for ham I use a Comet SBB5-NMO which is easy to place on the Midland mount. I use the same radio. The software sucks for ham also.

Obviously if it comes up more than once per week it’s too frequent for you to remain civil. You do well for a short time, but then you go back to acting like you have to debase yourself to help others. Changing your screen name obviously didn’t help. Now you’re inviting PMs rather than having us criticize your hubris nature.

Have you seen this website? https://www.qsl.net/kb9mwr/projects/900mhz/plan.html

Apparently Nautel uses this tool as well and provided this legend: from video:

Also, this tutorial video displays similar red areas, so I asked about the meaning in the comments.

Have you looked through the tutorial or read the posts on the io group: https://groups.io/g/Radio-Mobile-Deluxe? Tutorial: http://pizon.org/radio-mobile-tutorial/index.html

What are your criteria? What does “better deal” mean to you? Cheapest? Works on most different services (ham, MURS, and GMRS?), easiest to use on GMRS?

Go right back to that dealer. He might be able to clear this up quickly.

I truly believe it’s going to be the height and type of the antenna. Your antenna is at 25 feet. You’re surrounded by trees. Their canopies are probably about 25 feet. Any high gain antenna concentrates its power in a flatter pattern than an omnidirectional antenna. A Yagi also concentrates it in a narrow cone. Trees will absorb the signal. High gain directed into trees leaves little signal in other directions. Lowering the antenna to ground level might allow it to send the RF below the tree canopies. Also, ,are sure the 1050 is transmitting wideband.

Did you read from the radio first? That’s advised with almost all CPS.

Radio is funny and rules of thumb sometimes are never right for all situations. A Yagi should make you reach further, but because it limits the various other paths the RF may take I think it’s actually self-defeating in this situation. Try an omnidirectional antenna at ground level. After all, your 905 works at ground level with 1/10th as much power. Putting your antenna at 25 feet might simply be placing it at just the right level that the trees can block RF.