FrostyFruits

Lets start out with my setup so this might not work for you.
My repeater is a Bridgecom BCR-40DU, I purchased the URIx, 25 pin cable, and Micro SD from the myGMRS store.
Make sure your not using a Raspberry Pi 4, trust me it doesn't work. I ended up getting a Raspberry Pi 3B+. 
After installing the micro sd card into the pi make sure you connect an ethernet cable, log in, change password like instructed, then set up wifi if you want by following instructions in the quick start guide that came with the micro sd card, don't forget to log into your router and set up port forwarding.
 
Your gonna wanna go into your simpleusb.conf file and change a few things.
 
sudo nano /etc/asterisk/simpleusb.conf
 
carrierfrom = usbinvert  ; no,usb,usbinvert
                                         ; no - no carrier detection at all
                                         ; usb - from the COR line on the USB sound fob (Active high)
                                          ; usbinvert - from the inverted COR line on the USB sound fob (Active low)
ctcssfrom =  usb     ; no,usb,usbinvert
                                  ; no - CTCSS decoding, system will be carrier squelch
                                  ; usb - CTCSS decoding using input from USB sound fob (Active high)
                                  ; usbinvert - from the inverted CTCSS line on the USB sound fob (Active low)
 
duplex = 1              ; Duplex 0,1
                               ; 0 - half duplex
                               ; 1 - full duplex
 
When your done making the changes hit ctrl + o followed by enter then ctrl + x  followed by enter.
I wasn't able to use DTMF tones to connect to different nodes so I found a command in one of the forum pages to connect through ssh.
 
sudo asterisk -rx "rpt fun 24219 *3172"
 
24219 is my node so insert your node number, *3172 will connect me to node 172, *3xxxxx will connect you to your node of choice, xxxxx being the node number.
 
If your gonna use the Pi as your repeater controller then your gonna have to modify your rpt.conf file.
 
sudo nano /etc/asterisk/rpt.conf
 
hangtime = 1000                ; squelch tail hang time (in ms) (optional, default 5 seconds, 5000 ms)
althangtime = 2000            ; longer squelch tail
totime = 180000                 ; transmit time-out time (in ms) (optional, default 3 minutes 180000 ms)
idrecording = |ixxxxxxx            ; cording or morse string see http://ohnosec.org/drupal/node/87
;idtalkover = |ixxxxxxx              ; Talkover ID (optional) default is none see http://ohnosec.org/drupal/node/129
                                                   ; See Telemetry section Example: idrecording = rpt/nodenames/24219
idtime = 900000            
 
When your done making the changes hit ctrl + o followed by enter then ctrl + x  followed by enter.
Change the xxxxxxx to your callsign make sure you keep the |i or it won't identify. 
 
After your done making all the changes make sure to restart asterisk by using:
 
sudo service asterisk restart
 
These are all the changes I did to make everything work with my system. Once I get voice ID working I'll do an update.
I hope this helps someone. It took me quite a few days of playing around trying to figure this out.
 
Joe
WROE856

I noticed when people were transmitting I would lose part of the transmission every few seconds, sometimes the whole transmission then I would hear my courtesy tone. I noticed this when I had my phone linked in with DVSwitch while monitoring my radio. I did some playing around in the simpleusb.conf setting and found that if I changed it from log to linear my audio would be fine without issues.
To change the settings log in with putty, on the main menu hit 12 for simpleusb tune menu

 
After your in the simpleusb menu hit 5 then number 2

When your done making changes hit W then 0. Make sure to restart asterisk when done making changes by selecting option 13 from main menu. 

I'll give this a try, I know when I used the website to convert to wav I changed it to 8khz, I tried it mono and stereo and couldn't get it to work. Maybe the website wasn't converting it correctly. I'll try it with Audacity next time. 
There's some other things I'm trying to figure out how to add to my repeater. I'm learning as I go.
Thanks!

The KG-UV980P is the same body and software as the KG-1000g just different tx frequencies. You can expand the frequency with software and it's cheaper than the 1000G. This alone makes it a better choice. I can talk cb fm but listen am/fm, ham, and gmrs. I have 3 different antennas going to a triplexer. 
You can also check out the TYT TH-9800. 

They work perfectly fine for me. They weren't in an image file when I found them. They were in a pdf from someone with the call sign W2YMM. I even found a few more tones. Make sure your using sudo to modify the rpt.conf file. After you save the file you have to restart asterisk. This is my list, I just use the ct# where needed
unlinkedct = ct9            ; Send a this courtesy tone when the user unkeys if the node is not connected to any other nodes. (optional, default is none)
linkunkeyct = ct12            ; sent when a transmission received over the link unkeys
remotetx = ct14                  ; local courtesy tone when linked Trancieve mode
 
ct1 = |t(350,0,100,2048)(500,0,100,2048)(660,0,100,2048)
ct2 = |t(660,880,150,2048)  
ct3 = |t(440,0,150,4096) 
ct4 = |t(550,0,150,2048)
ct5 = |t(660,0,150,2048)
ct6 = |t(880,0,150,2048)
ct7 = |t(660,440,150,2048)
ct8 = |t(700,1100,150,2048)
ct9 = |t(1500,0,50,4096)(1250,0,50,4096)(1000,0,50,4096)(750,0,50,4096)(500,0,50,4096)(2550,0,50,4096);CHIRPCHOMP
ct10 = |t(1000,800,50,2048)(800,0,50,2048)(600,0,50,2048)(1500,0,50,2048);MOONBOUNCE
ct11 = |t(0,0,640,0)(330,0,50,2048)(495,0,50,2048)(660,0,50,2048) ; YELLOW JACKET
ct12 = |t(800,0,100,2048)(800,0,100,2048)(540,0,100,2048) ; SHOOTING STAR
ct13 = |t(500,0,100,2048)(500,0,100,2048)(750,0,100,2048) ; COMET
ct14 = |t(750,0,125,2048)(808,0,80,2048)(880,1200,80,2048) ; STARDUST
ct15 = |t(0,0,640,0)(660,0,50,2048)(500,0,50,2048)(385,0,50,2048) ; HORNET
ct16 = |t(1000,0,20,2048)(800,0,20,2048)(600,0,20,2048) ; TUMBLE WEED
ct17 = |t(0,0,640,0)(660,0,100,2048)(500,0,100,2048)(385,0,100,2048) ; WASP
ct18 = |t(500,700,100,2048) ; UONK
ct19 = |t(1000,0,100,2048) ; BEEP
ct20 = |t(440,0,100,2048) ; BOOP
ct21 = |t(840,500,100,2048) ; BLOOP
ct22 = |t(1000,0,50,2048)(750,0,50,2048)(500,0,50,2048) ; DESCENDING
ct23 = |t(500,0,50,2048)(750,0,50,2048)(1000,0,50,2048) ; ASCENDING
ct24 = |t(1760,0,30,2048)(0,0,30,0)(1760,0,30,2048)(0,0,30,0)(1760,0,30,2048) ; NEXTEL
ct25 = |t(2450,0,200,2048) ;NASA OVER1
ct26 = |t(2175,0,200,2048)(1950,0,175,2048) ; MOTOROLA TONE REMOTE 1
ct27 = |t(2175,0,75,2048)(1950,0,50,2048) ; MOTOROLA TONE REMOTE SHORT
ct28 = |t(0,0,640,0)(660,880,100,2048) ; PIANO CHORD
ct29 = |t(2500,0,100,2048) ; NASA OVER2
ct30 = |t(800,440,50,2048)(440,220,50,2048)  ; PIANO DOOR BELL
ct31 = |t(540,0,050,2048)(540,0,050,2048)(880,0,050,2048)  ; MOTH
ct32 = |t(540,0,100,2048)(540,0,100,2048)(880,0,100,2048)  ; BUTTERFLY
ct33 = |t(1000,0,50,2048)(750,0,50,2048)(500,0,50,2048)  ; SNOWSHOE RABBIT
ct34 = |t(500,0,50,2048)(750,0,50,2048)(1000,0,50,2048)  ; JACKRABBIT
ct35 = |t(480,1200,40,2048)(0,0,40,0)(480,1200,40,2048)   ; FUNCTION COMPLETE 1
ct36 = |t(900,0,60,2048)(0,0,60,0)(900,0,60,2048)   ; FUNCTION COMPLETE 2
ct37 = |t(440,500,200,2048)(440,350,200,2048)  ; DUNCE CAP
ct38 = |t(800,0,75,2048)(400,50,50,2048)  ; DOORBELL
ct39 = |t(1000,1200,120,2048)(1200,1400,80,2048)(600,800,100,2048)  ; FIRE FLY
ct40 = |t(0,0,640,0)(330,0,100,2048)(495,0,100,2048)(660,0,100,2048)  ; BUMBLE BEE
 
Feel free to copy and paste it to your file to see if it works. 

I noticed when people were transmitting I would lose part of the transmission every few seconds, sometimes the whole transmission then I would hear my courtesy tone. I noticed this when I had my phone linked in with DVSwitch while monitoring my radio. I did some playing around in the simpleusb.conf setting and found that if I changed it from log to linear my audio would be fine without issues.
To change the settings log in with putty, on the main menu hit 12 for simpleusb tune menu

 
After your in the simpleusb menu hit 5 then number 2

When your done making changes hit W then 0. Make sure to restart asterisk when done making changes by selecting option 13 from main menu. 

Thanks for the tips everyone!!
 

I have 3 of the Larsen NMO mounts in my roof. 1 of these with the rg58au and 2 with lmr200. They are great mounts and will recommend them over others. There's a little cap on the bottom that covers the center lead solder point. You can put a dab a silicone on that but I don't think it's needed.

Just checking, gotta get all the details when trying to help. It's amazing what a small issue will cause. Do you have anyone close with a radio you can throw the antenna on or use their antenna?

Spend the money on a good NMO mount. The Larsen HF mount is ideal for a fender bracket. Just slide a piece of heat shrink over the cable to the mount. I have run them on multiple vehicles and they will outlast any basic cheap mount. 
 
https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-categories/shop-all/mobile-antenna-mounts/nmo-mobile-antenna-mounts/266-permanent-hole-mounts/289-nmo-3-4-hole-mount-no-connector/larsen-nmokhfcx-detail

wayoverthere, Just now got a dummy load coming for UHF.  Will pickup a 1/4 wave to try.
FrostyFruits, The feed line is running through the rear cab window which is down far enough to get the PL259 trough. This is a new radio and a new truck. The radio came with a lighter plug so for now that's how it's running. If this radio works for me I will put Anderson Power Poles on it and attach it to the master feed in the cab.  The ground system in GM trucks after 1999 is not good to attach directly to the battery, too much alternator interference because the alternator feed goes to the battery.  Doors closed engine running.  This isn't my first rodeo with antennas, just my first one with UHF.

Don't know how or why but today it's working perfectly fine. Playing every 2 hours like I wanted. Thanks for the help!

I just posted a whole write up about modifying the hamvoip image to run on the mygmrs network. Check out
If your not gonna install to raspberry pi 4 just skip the pi4 download

Well I did it. I drilled 3 holes. My heart was pounding the hole time but it really wasn't too bad. I would do it again if I had to. Put some dielectric grease on the o-rings before tightening them down. As long as there's no leaks when it rains I'll be good. 
 

Well I did it. I drilled 3 holes. My heart was pounding the hole time but it really wasn't too bad. I would do it again if I had to. Put some dielectric grease on the o-rings before tightening them down. As long as there's no leaks when it rains I'll be good. 
 

Well I did it. I drilled 3 holes. My heart was pounding the hole time but it really wasn't too bad. I would do it again if I had to. Put some dielectric grease on the o-rings before tightening them down. As long as there's no leaks when it rains I'll be good. 
 

Try disconnecting negative from battery and put it to a bolt on the chassis or even a seat bolt. You could be getting noise or feed back from the alternator or some other electronics. 
I have a DC filter coming because I can hear an alternator whine through cb channels. 
https://www.gigaparts.com/kenwood-pg-3b.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1N2TBhCOARIsAGVHQc7XAMe6GAia8Z32Osig50r03P8O1MgaEGAMk1NHe_DItXB3MU2UA54aApqZEALw_wcB

Those have really gone up in price, have used many of them for Icom A110/120 aviation radios, as that connector is also used by that series of mobile radio, with electrical noise being a huge problem with AM radio. Great filter, and does work well. I also add chokes to power cables, a practice that came from Motorola shipping cases of these when doing large projects, such as P25 installations at Public Safety Answering Points (911 Call Centers). That filter should work well to curb much of that noise heard. 
Back when you could still go to Radio Shack, they had a version that was sold for use with CB (AM 23-40 channel) and stereo equipment too, which was larger, cylindrical and comes up in many auction sites, for about the third of the price of the Kenwood version, it works too. Bought many on clearance years ago and used them all over the place.

Try disconnecting negative from battery and put it to a bolt on the chassis or even a seat bolt. You could be getting noise or feed back from the alternator or some other electronics. 
I have a DC filter coming because I can hear an alternator whine through cb channels. 
https://www.gigaparts.com/kenwood-pg-3b.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1N2TBhCOARIsAGVHQc7XAMe6GAia8Z32Osig50r03P8O1MgaEGAMk1NHe_DItXB3MU2UA54aApqZEALw_wcB

First you have to know what repeater your going to get and see if it has an 25 pin accessory port. Don't get an ID-O-Matic. You'll need a raspberry pi, SD card with mygmrs image, a URIx, and of course the 25 pin cable. Check out the mygmrs store, you can get everything except the raspberry pi, you have to get that on your own. Learn how to use linux, then hop over to the technical discussion section. 

Yes to both. 

You can try this adapter to make sure it'll run the radio before cutting the cable. You could also splice into this if needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Female-Converter/dp/B07DDKD7Y7?th=1

This is a nice little radio.  I hear the best GMRS channel on Youtube will be reviewing it a few days before its available for purchase.

you should be good with the first option.  I run similar on my F150 (6 NMO mounts). Rear is CB and VHF, front are all bands, and farthest front are UHF
 

I can't speak for the FG4607, but I do have the FG4603 on a bridgecom bcr-40du. I get better performance with the FG4603 compared to the Ed Fong GMRS antenna I replaced, along with better SWR. The higher the db the narrower the beam from what I understand. Looking at the specs, FG4603 has a 33* beamwidth, FG4605 has a 27* beamwidth and the FG4607 has a 14* beamwidth. The FG4607 will shoot your signal out further but it might miss people lower down. 
 
(all beamwidth specs came from https://www.talleycom.com/)