WRUU653

Yes. see the second post, from @Sshannon for more on this.

My antenna is in pretty much the same spot, only drivers side and I'm able to hit a repeater a good 40 miles out with it in this location using the Midland MXTA26. I also placed it here so I wouldn't knock the S@#% out of it loading and unloading things on a roof rack. Also powder coated like yours. I'm very happy with mine. For comparison I am running three times the wattage as you and the repeater is on a mountain with good line of sight so as they say your mileage may very but I think you'd be happy with the MXTA26. I'd say try a better antenna or relocate the one you have to a higher spot.

I saw that on the Monday list. This problem just goes on and on with no end in on site.

Is this a Bluetooth app for a coffee grinder?

$400 is a steal! I would have implemented a buy it now figure it out later approach at that price!

Thanks @WRXB215 for keeping me straight there. Good info. I may have been making an assumption there as I haven’t done like radio to like radio. If I do I’ll definitely follow this protocol. What I do is select everything I want to transfer in one radio file, copy and then paste it to another radio file then upload to the second radio. The file I’m uploading is however a file that was originally downloaded from the radio I’m uploading to. I do keep separate files and back ups for each of my radios. I have made mistakes before when getting in a hurry and back ups are worth every second it takes to download them. It sounded like OP was going through and manually entering everything from a list he printed out from the first radio. I was trying to pass on that there’s no need to go through such a laborious process. Perhaps save him the trouble of that at least.

Just for future reference you can download from one radio and upload the same file to another. No step by step needed. No printing out needed. If they are different makes and models you can copy the whole file and paste into the other radio file. Save a file for back up. When I download from the radio I’ll do it twice. That way I have one file to make my changes on and one I haven’t touched. If something doesn’t go right I can always go back to what I had before. Keep a copy of the most recent file on you computer.

Oh he knows… I think he just likes to see who will jump to correct him.

Welcome @wplanas to mygmrs.

GMRS repeaters have a +5 offset. So the repeater you’re looking to program is 462.675. That means your radio will need to TX (transmit) on 467.675 and RX (receive) on 462.675. As @Sshannon mentioned repeater channels on your radio have the offset already set. You can see both the frequency of the channel and the offset in chirp. A repeater channel that matches the frequency of the repeater you want to program. That’s where you want to program your repeater. In this case channel 28, or 36 if you prefer and so on.

As @Sshannon says. The repeater channels have the +5 offset already. So for this repeater channel 28 would be appropriate. While the 935 (great radio by the way) is fairly easy to program front panel you may find it’s even easier to use Chirp. I find it helps to see things in this format too.

P.S. on second thought your slab idea might help with a nice flat surface and you could pour cement around large bolts that have a bend in them like what’s used for street lights. Cut a plywood template to run the bolts through for your mounting pattern to attach the antenna, with rebar epoxied into the rock for the slab to rock bond.

Very nice Steve. It reminds me of a place my grandfather used to have. It also had boulders. I broke my arm as a teen jumping from one to another. The epoxy works really good too. I’ve used both before in concrete. I’ve never had an issue with either but I lean towards using anchors fwiw.

Wedge anchor, maybe stainless for that winter rust. https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_FASTENER_7135/CLS_MECHANICAL_ANCHORS_7135/r8863108 You’re going to need a good hammer drill. I would recommend getting one that uses the SDS Plus bits. You may want cordless for your location but the corded ones are usually a bit cheaper. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18V-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-5-8-in-SDS-Plus-Rotary-Hammer-Tool-Only-2612-20/204390533 Your location looks beautiful. Congratulations on the new antenna! I’m sufficiently jealous

Welcome @WRWQ613 to the forum!!

Try going into your phone’s Bluetooth settings and select forget device, then repair it as a new device.

Really? He said this in his first sentence. Channel 22 aka 462.725. If he knew exactly where the repeater was there would be no question. @WRXB440 channel 22 is simplex so if you are trying to reach them and they are on a repeater you’ll need to be on the equivalent repeater channel like channel 30. Of course you’ll need the proper tones. You’re right there doesn’t seem to be a 462.725 repeater that close but there are a couple outside of your area. You could try finding the ones on the map page that match that frequency that are closest and add those tones but there’s no guarantee your radio will reach the repeater as the repeater signal very likely will be stronger than what you’re sending. @marcspaz is probably right. And frankly he knows this stuff better than I. Keep listening maybe you’ll get some info. Good luck.

I would add to @Sshannon’s info that most GMRS radio (if not all) will have this +5 offset already added in the preprogrammed channels for repeaters. 21: TONE-SCAN] CTCSS/DCS Scanning Function: Scans the incoming signal for CTCSS or DCS tones to identify or confirm the correct tone. This function must be activated while receiving a signal. Options: 1. CTCSS/2. DCS Default: None. Choose the function and press [MENU] to activate the scan. Note: The scan will stop when the signal ends and resume from where it left off the next time the signal is received, until it identifies the correct tone. Use the [UP]/[DOWN] arrow keys to scan in a different direction

I think @back4more70 may be right on this. If not try downloading your wife’s settings in Chirp and then upload those to your radio. You can compare the two for every setting too.

Doesn’t matter, if you’re using an FRS radio you don’t have to use GMRS ID. @Sshannon’s above post covers this well. As well as the follow up question which is really the same question with the same answer.

I’ll second the Midland MXTA26. I have it on my Tacoma and I’m reaching repeaters that I did not before and I’m very pleased with it.

I have one of those on my radio and it has saved me.

I have considered trying this. I’m glad to know someone had success with this. Did you use a regular glass cutter?

On the pricier side but good quality the Wouxun KG-S88G. It’s IP67, it has a screen though it is smaller and it’s superheterodyne. On the cheaper side the Baofeng UV-9G. It is also IP67, smaller screen, not superheterodyne but duel band, more frequencies on RX. It’s cheep enough that if something happens you aren’t breaking the bank.