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I'm gonna find a way to make a radio that sends a fart sound instead of a roger beep. As soon as I finish cyberattacking the ARRL, that is.

What he said was: "roger beep noise BAD!! But a slightly different sounding roger-beep noise, known as MDC, GOOD"

Based on all your multiple previous comments about how EVERY person you know dumps EVERY radio (Midland, Retevis, TidRadio, Wouxun) unless that radio happens to be the same brand of radios that you use, it is becoming clear that you don't actually know anyone. ... Or, you are just F.O.S. But either way, your mythomaniac comments are great for pointing at and laughing so keep up the good work!

And has been stated, you are entitled to your views on radios, but those of us who are regulars on this forum are very tired of your rant and claims of hitting repeaters 200 miles away with your handheld.

Nothing wrong with Midland radios for their simplicity and ease of use. A lip mount or a magnet mount in the middle of the trunk lid should work fine on the Miata. I have used those devices that will allow the stock antenna to work for CB years ago. They never did work as well as a dedicated CB antenna. So you might want to look at two separate antennas for CB and GMRS.

I got my GMRS license a few weeks ago and received my handheld radios a few days ago & started setting them up (still learning & trying to set them up lol). Well, I reached a local repeater and made my first contact. It was exciting to me so I just thought I’d share that. Thanks everyone for helping me with my newbie questions.

Nope, there are a lot of us here who feel exactly the same way. You just got to your keyboard first and you said it very well.

This one time, at band camp, I found myself in a hell that only Xenu could punish me with: a gathering of licensed sad-H.A.M.s. I thought I was in for a fun-filled weeknd filled with music, but no, instead, I got stuck with a bunch of overgrown man-children playing with their glorified walkie-talkies. From the moment I arrived, I knew I was in trouble. These guys, who were clearly incapable of any meaningful social interaction, swarmed the place like a plague of dorks. They had all the charm of a root canal and twice the ego. Imagine an army of Sheldons from The Big Bang Theory, but without any of the redeeming qualities or comedic timing. That’s what I was up against. It all started innocently enough. I was trying to enjoy the campfire when a group of them descended on me. They were babbling in a language that was a mix of Klingon and technobabble, discussing radio frequencies and antenna designs as if they were secrets to eternal life. Their leader, a guy I’ll call Bob because he looked like every Bob you’ve ever met, decided he needed to “educate” me on the wonders of ham radio. I swear, if he had a ham-radio-shaped soapbox, he would have stood on it. “Yo! Bob,” I said, “what’s the frequency for tuning into some good music?” It was a joke, a simple, harmless joke. But Bob, with all the wit and humor of a malfunctioning robot, started giving me a lecture on frequency bands and how important it is to get a license - he must have said "i've been a licensed ham-radio operator for over 25 years" over 20 times. Every time I tried to engage in normal human-conversation, it was like talking to a brick wall. A brick wall that talked back, but only to explain in excruciating detail why you were wrong about everything. These guys couldn’t recognize sarcasm if it slapped them in the face and called them stupid. I tried to make a joke about their radios being a way to compensate for something, but they just nodded seriously and started discussing the size of their antennas. I kid you not. The other operators were no better. They were like drones, each waiting for their turn to speak about their precious radios, completely unaware that no one else cared. Conversations were like passing around a hot potato, except the potato was a steaming pile of boredom, and no one wanted to let go of it. It was mind-numbing. One night, after enduring yet another lecture from Bob about the superiority of Morse code, I lost it. I stood up and said, “Look, I get that you guys are into this stuff, but I came here to relax, not to join your cult. Can we, for the love of Xenu, talk about something else for five minutes?” They stared at me like I had just spoken in tongues. Then, Bob, with his usual cluelessness, said, “But amateur radio is the best way to relax! You just haven’t experienced it properly yet. You should get your ham ticket!” At that moment, I fantasized about using Bob’s radio as a blunt instrument. Instead, I walked away, muttering curses under my breath. I retreated to my tent, trying to block out the sound of their droning voices and the endless beeping of Morse code. I couldn’t believe I had paid to be in this dork-fest. As the days dragged on, I learned to tune them out. I found solace in the woods, away from the incessant chatter and the constant hum of their radios. I survived band camp, but just barely. I walked away with a story that would make for great campfire tales, but also a newfound appreciation for the blissful silence of solitude. In the end, I was not assimilated, and thank Xenu for that. I escaped with my sanity mostly intact, but I knew one thing for sure: never again would I underestimate the sheer, unrelenting boredom that comes with a bunch of licensed sad-hams.

I run a KG-905G in my race car with a Midland 'ghost' antenna (and a helmet 'headset' setup using semi-custom ear buds and a mic on the chin bar). ...I'm not sure that's what you're going for. For testing, I reached out on a couple local repeaters at 20 and 50 miles. It works at the track pretty well too In the past I ran a Nagoya UT-72G mag-mount on the strip of body work between the rear of the top and the trunk lid, and that worked well too.

Just say “beep” at the end of your transmission, kinda like Roy yells “whistle” in Ted Lasso.

NO! Not the fart sound! I got in trouble with a ham club using their 2m linked network once because of that. I was in a conversation and let one rip while I had the mic keyed. The computer system supporting the link read the sound as a digital data burst shut-down command which turned the network off. Talk about a bunch of sad hams!

OBVIOUSLY it is pronounced POOF-WHANG ! ...where is this screenshot from? Do you have a link?

Roger

I have no idea what any of that means. It may as well say “The blue tree fish highway hiking right. Lemons toe rubber hand cow flight highway. I like pie”

You can go into the camera settings and tell it to store your images as good, old-fashioned .JPG images, if that is your preference.

Everyone is entitled to an opinion, saying they think a roger beep is annoying equates to violating rights is a bit of a stretch. beep edit. In my opinion.

I know! Just when I thought that Midland had finally hired some GMRS design engineers who had a clue... They did great, as I understand it, making this radio dual conversion. I believe this is the first ever GMRS by Midland to include that feature which does make a difference in areas with a lot of RF pollution. Even though NAR experienced long battery life in his test, not allowing for procurement or attachment of spare batteries if out in the wilderness for days, is just short-sighted. If the attached antenna works well, I can live with that being incapable of removal, but why? I always hated that style of belt clip, preferring the rigid, one-piece, style that is more common. Midland seems to really play up that minimalist "keeping it simple for the non-radio person" rot, but it isn't necessary. Any Wouxun ht or mobile is just as simple if you choose to not program in PL codes for simplex or repeater use. The thing about the Wouxun design is, their radios can easily and readily grow with you, your knowledge of radios, and your needs; allowing for addition of more repeater or simplex channels with differing PL/DPL codes in them. I am now expecting any day, to see Midland introduce the absolute ultimate in minimalist communications for the non-radio-geek. Picture it! "The New Midland TCCC" (Tin Can Communications Center). "Midland R&D has just developed a new communications device which will revolutionize communications with family, friends, and neighbors. Our new TCCC never requires batteries, needs no license, and has exceptional privacy! The TCCC comes complete with two tin cans and a 100 ft length of high-quality, communications grade, string. It allows for reliable, network-free contact when afield, between rooms, between houses, and even between automobiles! Extra 100 ft lengths of communications grade string may be necessary for vehicular operation. Be prepared for your next outing, road trip, or EMP incident! The new Midland TCCC is impervious to EMP, Government eavesdropping, and other hazards. It needs no programming or knowledge of radiocommunications principles to work. Get yours today!"

I guess it depends on which year Miata, but GMRS could be as simple as a 6" whip middle of the trunk lid with an NMO mount. The CB will be harder. I'm not sure how effective the stock power antenna is, or how well it will resonate for CB, even with a matching coil or tuner. Ideally, you would be looking at something with length, like the Larsen NMO27B (49") on the trunk lid. There are other options for CB, but the real trick to CB is getting a good long antenna that resonates. For radio choice, I can understand wanting a handheld control head for space reasons. You may have to mount external speakers for each under the seats you can hear them, wind noise at highway speeds can really drown out the radios.

Sorry to ruin the surprise for you, but the GXT3000 does not have a removable antenna

I always hate when someone is completely incapable of grasping the concept that different people have different wants, needs, and priorities than themselves. The only thing more perplexing than that, is how willing 'some people' are to demonstrate to everyone how they are totally devoid of these basic mental abilities. But.. that's just me...

I believe it means they found one of your posts or comments and then signed up for the site. Because your post or comment may have been instrumental in motivating them to join you have been notified. It’s sort of a pat on the back. It’s much better than discovering that someone read something you wrote and blocked the site. Good job helping the site grow!

https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/security/arrl-cyberattack-takes-logbook-of-the-world-offline/

I appreciate all of your feedback on this! its good fuel for my brain right now. should have new antenna and setup this week sometime. I'm going to stretch up as far as I can. Again , thank you all!

I'm guessing that your radio does not program the actual CTCSS freq or the DCS code and more than likely using a programming number i.e. CTCSS tone freq. 67.0 Hz is tone #1 etc. You should refer to the user's manual regarding programming the squelch tones.

I think I actually have success. I can key up the repeater with one radio and hear it with another radio close to me

I’ve triple checked all the tones. I now get what sounds like the repeater responding. I’ll transmit them when I release the ptt button my receive light comes on and there is a brief sound like someone keys up for a second then release the button without saying anything. Maybe progress

I'll have to ask John Kruk about that one, hihi...

I’ve been wondering if my Yaesu HF radio can have a Roger beep added.

Someone Tweeted this on the X:

I still kinda wish all of the radio manufacturers would make a Roger beep (or courtesy tone, if you prefer) option that sounded like a half second (or so) squelch tail. In other words, a burst of white noise, like the old police and business radios from the 1950's thru the 80's or so used to make on the receive end.

It has always been Pofung and always marketed as "Baofeng" - The screenshot shows whats different now, in that they are now saying "formerly Baofeng" and the radios now say "Pofung".

It must be a turkey cooking reference: full of stuffing.

I was going to mention the same thing. Not sure about older type scanners, but if it is a newer, SDR-type scanner like my SDS200, they are VERY sensitive and too much power, too close to the antenna can bork it.

If this 800MHz antenna is connected to a scanner, you should make sure you have plenty of separation and/or insert an RF limiter between the antenna and scanner to make sure you don't fry the scanner front end.

No.

Maybe I am a "Debbie Downer" but while I am glad you have made contact with people you don't already know is that the reason you got into GMRS? HAM or CB would be much better IF that is your goal. To me, the best day on GMRS is only hearing people that I want to hear. That is: I see GMRS as a communication tool not a social tool.

I'm not a fan of the Roger Beep but, I do like the MDC squawk. As for the coolest MDC/PT-T ID signaling, I always thought that the old Saber analog MDC PT-T ID chirps were the best that LAPD use to use back in the day when they were on a 150 Meg system. When they went to the 500 Meg T-Band system they used the Astro Saber and PT-T ID with the digital MDC system.

With his sense of humor, I have to believe he was just having fun with it. Beep Beep

That's the important part.

That’s awesome. I don’t live close enough to any published repeaters to hit them with my ht radio. I can talk to my boys on there bf-888s radios when I’m close to home

That’s right, after no updates for a period of time a repeater is marked as stale. It doesn’t mean the repeater doesn’t exist.

You don’t. But get ready for a raft of shit.

Actually that's not a bad idea, and I would vote yes if it came to a vote. While some folks, for some inexplicable reason say ?why?, I say "why not?"

Your "rubberized shoe" will block DC current. . . . but radio waves are not DC, they are AC, and the higher the AC frequency, the more that signal will see that close by metal car body as a short to the antenna base 460+mhz is really really fast wiggling AC, it sees the base of the antenna and the car body as connected. Fear not

Should be analog and fusion capable. Can't remember exactly, been a while since I programmed. But if I remember correctly, fusion doesn't use tones. So if a fusion/wirex repeater has a tone it is usually fm analog capable. Then you just program fm normally, frequency, offset and tones, basically ignore that is says anything about fusion. If you have a fusion capable radio, then just make sure your wirex ID (fusion id) is programmed into the radio and turn ams on. I usually set mine to fm wide with the red bar. Make sure the repeater is programmed with the fm setting. Then if it hears fm it stays analog. If it hears fusion it flips to fusion. Bit more complicated to start a fusion transmission. Since you manually flip it into fusion mode. I love fusion wide (sounds most natural) I think fusion narrow sounds more like p25 and it's meh. Remember Fusion= yeasu c4fm digital Wirex = yeasu c4fm digital with internet ( able to connect to Yeasu Wirex rooms over the internet) Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

The Larsen LP450NMO we installed on the Jeep JK is working great. We hit a repeater about 32 miles out, in the hilly terrain of Western Washington, with us being down in a valley with lots of overhead power wires. Mounting on the cowl turned out better than expected. We’re very pleased.

I watched the video and I have to say kudos for B-Tech's customer service . I am underwhelmed about the repeater though. Too bad they can't get the repair parts in. I don't blame you for getting a refund.

So the factory settings in ALL my radios are wrong then? This is the factory settings for repeaters from my BTech 20v2 and it's showing Tx on 462MHg.

I remember them well back in the Micor days. I use to carry a box of various reeds around and change them out along with the channel elements (crystals) in my company car when I traveled from one zone to a different zone.

Fair bit of questions here. Tuning is done through the KPG software for the radio, HOWEVER, I would not attempt to retune a radio without the proper meters and equipment and a surecom 102 isn't the best to meter for perfection. One thing I do question is, have you tested the meter against a known source? I do use a surecom meter myself for quick checks, and I recall that I had to tune the meter before I could use it. It took a few trys however I did get it to be close enough for what I do. IF you choose to do this yourself with cheap equipment, I am not to be responsible for damage or rule violations. You will need a length of coax about 1.5 times the frequency wavelength, (9 or 18 inches should work) the meter, a 50 ohm 100W dummy load able to support the frequency you are tuning for, radio, power supply, programming cable and computer with KPG49D software. Set up the radio and power supply, connect the coax from the radios antenna port to the "Input" side of the meter, and connect the dummy load to the "Output" side. Connect the programming cable, and turn the radio and computer on. Open the 49D software and do a read from the radio. Click "Edit>Test frequency" Enter in several frequency sets, You should have the lowest frequency you plan to transmit on, the highest frequency, and a frequency somewhere close to middle between your high and low frequencys. Save the file, and write to the radio. Once written, click "Program>Test Mode" Select the center frequency (likely to give you the best results for your usage "band") Double click "RF High Power" Take a note of the current value, Just in case you make a mistake, you're able to return to this number and start again. Use the left and right arrow to adjust the value in the new window. Make small adjustments and click "TX" Get a reading and click "TX" again to stop transmitting. Keep making adjustments until you reach about 40W (This unit is rated at 40W output to my knowledge) You can run slightly low, however to protect the radio, I wouldn't tune above 40W. Once complete click "OK" to exit to the test mode window. Select the lower frequency and go back into RF High Power, DO NOT MAKE CHANGES, Simple click TX and take a reading, and do the same for the High frequency. Note, Both frequencies will be BELOW the 40W output. This is NORMAL as long as they aren't super low. When complete, click "Close" in the test mode window, and your radio should reboot. For low power, I don't believe that radio can go much further than 20W low power without causing damage to the radio, and for frequency alignment and getting into the 70CM band you would likely do better taking the radio to a shop and having a pro do it for $50. This will void the part 95 certification, however at least there is less risk of transmitting way off frequency by accident. I would also advise against any physical adjustments on the radios boards as a 1/4 turn on the wrong pot will fry your radio, your station, or worse, could cause a fire. Again, most shops can preform this service at a reasonable price for you.