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Nothing, short of triangulating his position by using either old-school methods or a Kraken tracker, then beating his ass in front of his family can be done. And, just for clarification, reporting him to the FCC will also result in... nothing happening,IRREGARDLESS of what "some people" will try to tell you - just look through the public FCC enforcement record and you will see that the FCC stopped caring about 12 years ago.

Who you talkin-bout Willis?

You might not find any dual band antennas that fits your needs then. The shortest dual band I could find is the COMPACtenna Model 2M/440 Dual-Band NMO Mobile Antennas 2M/440 which is 7" tall. I have no idea how well those work since I have no experience with them.

The "experts" on my local repeaters ignore them expertly. For real, they are some wizards when it comes to dealing with people. It is a large regional 2m linked system with repeaters that reach into four surrounding states. So with a network that large you are going to have some knuckleheads. Surprisingly few, though, but there are some. Best thing to do is literally ignore them. Sometimes I will hear someone come on and give their "Callsign, monitoring..." and that shuts them up some times. Guess if they feel like the frequency is being monitored, that sounds awfully official and they scram. The best way to get the FCC to take a look at it, in my humble non-expert non-accredited poor-boy opinion, would be to make sure your offending party is a commercial entity not always easy to do when it is just some riff-raff. But if you can convince them to become a commercial entity

As the one who shall not be mentioned says, perhaps Grinder is better for contacting strange men. The intent of GMRS is different.

And nothing wrong with that either. I find that I learn best by hands on.

Good morning, Mozam, Welcome to the guest section of the forums. It might help to know where you’re located. I have no experience with ODMaster. Someone who does will come along shortly. My suggestion would be to go watch some Notarubicon videos that describe the basic concepts, including repeater programming. The concept is straightforward. There are eight frequency pairs in GMRS for repeaters they all transmit on 467.xxx MHz and receive on 462.xxx MHz where the xxx part is the same. Every frequency pair is a repeater channel. The second part of that concept is tones and codes. They both serve exactly the same function; they reduce the likelihood of your being interrupted by others on the same frequency. They do not provide any kind of security; what you say can be heard by anyone listening on the same channel without setting a tone. One of the first things you should do is get your GMRS license and register for this site. Then you can look at the repeater database and map to see what repeaters are near you, what tones are needed to get into the repeaters.

No idea about local shops, but as mentioned above, local amateur radio clubs should have someone with the right tools and experience. Just my opinion based on experience, using the cheap Nano VNA's that you get off of Amazon are not good enough to tune a duplexer well. You don't have to spend a fortune. I only paid about $130 for the one I use for 2m/VHF Pass/Reject duplexers with 0.600 MHz splits. I am getting -100dB notches that are only 25KHz wide. I would also recommend asking whoever tunes it for you, if they would be willing to teach you how to do it. A good portion of amateurs I know actually like helping people learn.

We had a kid that was using his grampa's radio without permission. He kept getting on the repeater using CB lingo. We ignored him. Then he tried using a totally made up call sign. Again we ignored him. Then he was dumb enough to use his grampa's call sign. One of our members then started talking to him. We got his grampa's name and address from the call sign. We then send an email to the grampa. We haven't heard the kid on the air since. We have had instances of kerchunkers bouncing from our GMRS and 2m repeaters in quick succession. Again we ignore them while members try pin point the person's location. We have found a couple and just the threat of FCC fines was enough to stop them. We also programmed our repeater controllers with an anti-kerchunk feature. It keeps the people that just push the PTT in for a second from even opening up the repeater. That has took the wind out of a few kerchunkers sails. Sometimes a cease and desist letter is enough to stop people and other times it's not. A cargo van with a bunch of mag mount antennas on the roof parked across the street is enough to stop some people too.

First thing is NOT giving them what they want, which is to be recognized and acknowledged for what they are doing. If at all possible, when the show up and there is a conversation going on, continue the conversation without commenting on the problem. Keep right on talking. If one of you gets covered up by the guy, DO NOT directly say that. Claim it's noise, or something else. If possible have a conversation going on a different channel so that it seems transparent. But DON'T say anything that gives them recognition. That is what they want. If you clear the frequency, again the person 'wins' by default. Don't let that happen. If needs be, get several other people into the conversation. Get a conference call going on telephones so everyone knows whats being said. And just keep talking like the person isn't even there. This will frustrate them the most. If they aren't having any effect, they will go find someone else to screw with. Make sure when they get on initially, ask them to REPEAT their call sign. Act like it's just another conversation. Act like they are having sign issues if you do this. Tell them they aren't making the repeater very well and advise them to try again when they get closer. Mention that they might want a better antenna. This is regardless of how good their signal is. Full quieting or not. THey are weak and barely making the repeater. But address them the same as you would anyone else that had a poor signal and them tell them to give you a call once they get closer. Throw your call and wait. That typically will confuse them and again cause them to be frustrated. I can't explain the mentality of folks that do this. And I use to do it all the time to certain individuals on CB because they had it coming. But to take time out of your day to just be an asshole. I don't follow that thought process, and I even identify as an offensive asshole, so I speak from some level of experience here. But DON'T give them ANY level of satisfaction if you can help it. If you aren't showing any level of frustration with them, they will be more frustrated than you are. They are looking for a captive audience. Don't be one.

This ^ is the best advice.. Unfortunately too many people react, argue, complain, etc, etc, over the air and that is the exact kind of attention most jammers want. If you ignore them and pretend like they aren't even there, and just talk over/around them, without any reaction, they often/usually get bored and go somewhere else to get attention.. Much like a spoiled child.

I agree with you. The FCC stated themselves that is what they will actually take into account before thinking about investigating. That does not mean they will actually do anything. Their own track record shows they do not do much at all.

There is nothing you can do.

as the @AdmiralCochrane very eloquently said, GMRS is not for "making contacts" or chatting with anonymous men - for that, you're better off using the Grindr app on your phone. GMRS is for staying in contact with people in your group whilst off-roading, hiking, road-traveling, etc.

GMRS band is primarily for contacting people you already know.

Okay, you should not be transmitting on 462.625 to a repeater. And you should not be receiving on 467.625 unless your radio is the repeater. You shouldn’t have to use VFO channels if you’re using a GMRS radio. Just change to one of the repeater channels, add the right transmit tone, clear the receiver tone, and use it. The repeater channels might be numbered 23-30. Simplex means that you transmit and receive on exactly the same frequency. The only time you should transmit on one frequency and listen on another is when you’re using a repeater. You always transmit at 467.xxx to the repeater. You always receive from the repeater on 462.xxx.

I can definitely recommend the Comet SBB-1 NMO antenna for 2m and 70cm.It is only 16" long. I am height restricted myself and the Comet SBB1 just clears my 7 foot garage doors in the center of the roof on my 2023 Ford Escape. Another good option is the Comet SBB-2 which is 18" long. I tested my SBB-1 on GMRS and the SWWR was 1.8 at 467.600, so it is usable for GMRS.

In my case, i'm just wanting to learn the tunning process.. Unless i can compare to a professional tune i wouldn't depend on the Nana tune.. Another reason i got a 'el-cheapo' duplexer...

You used ODMaster to program? So you checked it and programed it? Not sure the question if you programed it. Is it a GMRS model? Basically your radio will have more common frequencies programed and they would be in ODMaster if you copied them. Repeater's will need to be manually added and that will depend on what's available and where you live. Basically ODMaster is an extension of what you can manually program into your radio with a few more features over bluetooth in an app. It's to make it easier than manually entering through your radio.

I don’t have the ODMaster app either but from what I can tell it’s just a way to program using the app and Bluetooth instead of programming with software and a cable connection to the radio. I don’t think it’s going to decide and propagate your radio with repeaters unless you put the info in. A google search shows videos on using the app. I think you are still going to need to gather the info you want and put it in.

Welcome!

While I disagree with it needing to be done by 'someone with proper knowledge and equipment' the nano VNA is fine for a NOTCH duplexer, in my opinion, that's the opinion of a guy that's been donig this for 15 years professionally and over 20 years in general. The little flatpack notch setups aren't going to be tight enough that if they are only close they will not be close enough. And there are tests that can be done to ensure they are at least that close. I have tuned them with nothing more than a radio, attenuator, RF signal meter and a bit of know how. And when I put them on a regular VNA they were dead on. Biggest concern is does the VNA output the frequency it says on the display. Easy test is put a frequency in it that you have a receiver for and verify it can be heard in the receiver. If you can hear it as a carrier, then it's on frequency enough to tune a flatpack. If you decide to take it on yourself, you need to know a few things. First is the open port on the fatpack needs to be connected to a dummy load. If it's not terminated, ti's not going to tune up right. Second is how you actually move the notch. Guys without any experience will just start cranking on whatever cavity they feel the need to and NOT move a little at a time. Once you move one cavity off far enough the notch in that cavity will disappear. Once that happens, it's a PITA to figure out. So make your changes up or down about a half turn at a time and do ALL three cavities with each step move. You will want to set your VNA with a wide frequency range to start. Once you are close, then you drop the bandwidth down to 1 Mhz and finally 500Khz to walk it in all the way. Remember that you are notching the TX out of the high side (receive side) and the RX out of the low side (transmit side). They should be marked high and low. So follow that and you will be fine. DO NOT however attempt to tune one the way I talked about before with just using a radio, attenuator and RF meter. I have tuned hurdreds of duplexers, built up combiner networks from parts, learned all the math and crap that goes with doing that. It's not stuff for a beginner to attempt.

That's what I am putting it on. Should work great on the TD-H3 but I'll let you know if it sits flush and doesn't hit the plastic surround on the port. I wanted the antenna to sit flush to the adapter and Signal Stuff makes a perfect looking BNC adapter that I just found.

I have to agree with everyone else, I would not try to tune a duplexer using a NanoVNA. We have member in our local club that retired from Sound Solutions and he still has access to all of the proper equipment to tune duplexers for us. A person really does need the proper equipment if they want to do it right. @WSGB808 I suggest reaching out to any local amateur radio clubs near you and ask them.

I bought one of these cheap, Chinese spectrum analyzers and I was pretty successful in tuning the flat pack duplexers. I tried tuning one, then took ot to a local guy that had REAL equipment and he was surprised at how close I had it tuned. They are a pain to work with though! https://www.ebay.com/itm/353219998270?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_4IuJVqfS0m&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=0zihXCkJQWG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY This will give you an idea of what it looks like while tuning

Aside From My Kenwood, Motorola & Vertex Standard UHF Radios I Use Daily For All My GMRS Use, I Do Have (8) Retevis RB75 Units That I Use For Hunting, Fishing & All Other Similar Outdoor Activities. They Are IP67 Rated, 5Watt, Have A 4500mAh Battery, Durable, Talk Good & Are Fairly Priced. Perfect Outdoorsman Radio & You Won't Cry If Someone Trashes One Out. https://www.retevis.com/rb75-waterproof-long-standby-gmrs-two-way-radios-us Also Available At Amazon.......

Don’t be a smratass.

I just want to give you guys an update. I received my ID-O-Matic Saturday. I also spent some time studying the schematic as Pin 7 wasn't the right one for this task. What I found was, though the manual states Pin 13 and 14 aren't used, the circuitry is in the schematic and the parts are on the board. I got my meter out and checked the test points and nothing. So, I went into the software and turned on PTT and nothing. Amazing when I turned on "AF Mute" I got my 5v when the carrier broke PL!! Everything is together and working perfect. The ID-O-Matic is powered from the receiver's DC OUT Pin 4. No mods to the radio, just I nice neat cable and box going between the two radios.