Jones

Free is ALWAYS the right price.  ...and if your 213 is free, then you can afford to buy a slightly better antenna to make up for the loss.

For testing, and to learn, type the following in to row 1:
under RX Frequency, type in 462.62500.
under TX Frequency, type the same thing: 462.62500
QT/DQT is Kenwood's trade-name for CTCSS or DCS a.k.a "Tone Squelch" - Decode and Encode - just leave those both blank for now.
under Channel Name, type "Channel 18"
under W/N, select Wide instead of Narrow, unless you are talking to Midland MicroMobiles or other FRS radios, then select Narrow.
Under TX Power, select Low for the time being. You will change this later, remember, this is just for testing and practice programming.
Scan Add - Yes (or no, doesn't matter yet)
Optional Signal - leave it blank or select None.
Then drop down the program menu from the top bar, and select "Upload data to Radio" and go from there.
Your radio should re-boot after a minute or less with FRS/GMRS "Channel 18" showing in the display, and you should be able to talk to another radio on 18 with no private code set. (Private code is Midland's name for CTCSS or Tone)
 
If it works, go back and program in channels 1-7 on Low power, and 15-22 on High power. You can add repeater channels later as needed.
To find the frequencies to use, just do a google search for "FRS GMRS Frequency Chart" and you'll find it. Also note that is is illegal to use FRS channels 8-14 on a base or mobile radio, so just leave them out.  Those are for half-watt handhelds only.

If you are planning on eventually running 100 feet, you WILL need better coax cable.  RG-8x is NOT RG-8u.  8x is the small coax used for CB radio.  Even the best grade of 8x has over 9 dB of loss at 462MHz at 100 feet.  For the low-cost/best performance per dollar ratio, go with LMR-400.
 
NOTE: I do not EVER recommend LMR-400 for repeater use, but for simple base station operation, it works great.

Another tip I use: Program channels 1-7 as Narrow bandwidth, since most of the time on those lower channels you will be communicating with FRS handhelds.  Leave the upper channels wideband.
 
Repeaters for the most part will be wideband.  When programming repeater channels, the TX frequency will be 5 MHz higher than the RX, thus you would type in 462.625 for the RX and 467.625 for the TX frequency. You will also need to add the tones required, which will be those QT boxes. QT Enc is the tone you are sending to the repeater, and QT Dec is the tone you will use to hear the repeater, or you can always leave the Dec column blank to hear all traffic on that frequency.

One thing I might suggest...
 
Since (I assume) you will have a GMRS license holder at the central command office of the camp, why not set up a 5-watt, narrow band UHF base station on 462.6125 MHz, with no CTCSS tone.  Put a small UHF antenna on your 40 foot pole, (use low-loss coax like LMR-400) and you will be able to cover your whole forest on the frequency known as FRS Channel 3. 
 
Tell everyone with FRS radios to stay off from channel 3 unless they have any emergency or need to get in touch with the camp headquarters, then just call on channel 3 with no privacy code.  Even if those cheap bubble-pack radios can't talk to each other through the trees, they likely can be heard at the base station with the 40' high antenna, and with licensed 5 Watts at 40', they will hear you.  Forget about a UHF repeater. 
 
NOTE: I'm just using channel 3 as an example, but any channel 7 or below could be used at 5 Watts. You could use higher power (50 Watts) on channels 15-22, but remember, a lot of older FRS-only radios don't go past 14, and channel 8-14 are low-power only.  If there is any GMRS repeater within 50 miles, pick a channel 2 or 3 away from its output frequency, so its wide-band transmitter doesn't splatter on your narrow-band base receiver.

Once again, for some reason the original post has been edited, but in this case, the subject line sums up the original question, and several posts agreed on a valid answer.
 
There is already a well established "Highway" or "Travel Channel" for GMRS, and it is 462.675 with a CTCSS Tone of 141.3Hz.
 
Again, on a Midland MicroMobile, (and many other GMRS or Combo radios) that would be channel 20 with a "Privacy Code" of 22. (However, check your radio's owner's manual for the privacy or quiet code that matches 141.3 Hz.  Not all radios are mapped the same for these codes.)
 
This frequency can be used in repeater mode, or simplex if a repeater is not available in the area.
 
...and if you don't want to miss any possible action, then use WRAF233's suggestion, and just set the radio to "SCAN".
 
Also of note, just yesterday, I was traveling on US HWY 81 in North Central Kansas, and heard 2 truckers using channel 20-22.

The long recognized GMRS "Travel Channel" is 462.675 with a CTCSS Tone of 141.3Hz.
 
On a Midland MicroMobile, that would be channel 20 with a "Privacy Code" of 22.

As a contract radio broadcast engineer, I am on the road a LOT in Nebraska and Kansas.  I very rarely hear anything on GMRS other than my own family, but I did just a few weeks ago hear a couple of truckers on 462.675 (Channel 20) on hwy 81 north of Salina.
 
I usually monitor either 462.675 (20) when I'm on the road, or 462.625 (18) when I'm around my hometown, since my family uses 625.
 
Channel 20, with a CTCSS tone of 141.3 (Midland "privacy code" #22) is sort of the "official/not quite official/depends who you ask" traveler's channel for FRS/GMRS, so that is where like-minded people should hang out if they want to have a chance at talking to someone else on a road trip.
 
So, one-way to Kansas?? Where in Kansas, and why?

Sorry, but that is not correct. Amateur repeaters (just like operators) are required to ID at the beginning of a transmission sequence, every 10 minutes during, and at the end of the transmission sequence.  If no further traffic is repeated, the machine may then sit silent until the next sequence begins.
 
Normally, when a ham repeater is first keyed up, or "cerchuncked", it will send an ID immediately. If no one then uses the machine, it will ID again in 10 minutes, then stay quiet.  If someone does use the machine, it will ID every 10 minutes during the conversation.  If the conversation ends after 27 minutes, then after an additional 3 minutes, the machine will send the final ID at the 30 minute time slot, then be silent until keyed up again.
 
For GMRS, there is nothing in the rules that require a repeater to ID, but the operators must.  Just for good measure, most repeater operators ID their machines as well.  I have mine set up just like a ham repeater, except the ID timer is set to 15 minutes rather than 10 minutes.  It stays silent until I key it up, then it will ID after the first transmission.  If I talk for 3 minutes, then sign off, it will stay quiet for 12 minutes, then send the final ID before going back quiet.
 
By the way, I use Bridgecom repeaters as you mentioned, and they already have this Morse ID function built-in.  At set-up, you type in your call sign, and set the ID timer for 10 or 15 minute intervals.

If your asking about GMRS/UHF, then once you get the antenna cut to specification, is should make no difference if you move the magnet mount to the top of a car, truck, train, or Maytag washer, it should be about the same SWR, since the quarter wave ground-plane is only about 6 inches.
 
If you use a mag mount, it just won't matter that much which vehicle it is on, it is a compromise, sure; but it should get the job done just fine in most cases.
 
If you want a great mobile antenna, I would suggest a quality permanent NMO mount type antenna, but most mag-mounts will do a very respectable job... with no need to re-tune after changing cars.
 
Basic unwritten rule of magnetic mount antennas:  --  Have at least a quarter-wave of metal all around the magnetic base for the ground plane.
 
This means:
 
About 6 inches (in radius) on UHF.
About 18-20 inches (again, radius) on MURS, VHF, 2-Meters
and about 8 feet on CB antennas,which is why mag-mounts don't work well there.  (hahaha.. Partial joke, partial truth)

If your asking about GMRS/UHF, then once you get the antenna cut to specification, is should make no difference if you move the magnet mount to the top of a car, truck, train, or Maytag washer, it should be about the same SWR, since the quarter wave ground-plane is only about 6 inches.
 
If you use a mag mount, it just won't matter that much which vehicle it is on, it is a compromise, sure; but it should get the job done just fine in most cases.
 
If you want a great mobile antenna, I would suggest a quality permanent NMO mount type antenna, but most mag-mounts will do a very respectable job... with no need to re-tune after changing cars.
 
Basic unwritten rule of magnetic mount antennas:  --  Have at least a quarter-wave of metal all around the magnetic base for the ground plane.
 
This means:
 
About 6 inches (in radius) on UHF.
About 18-20 inches (again, radius) on MURS, VHF, 2-Meters
and about 8 feet on CB antennas,which is why mag-mounts don't work well there.  (hahaha.. Partial joke, partial truth)

Sorry, but that is not correct. Amateur repeaters (just like operators) are required to ID at the beginning of a transmission sequence, every 10 minutes during, and at the end of the transmission sequence.  If no further traffic is repeated, the machine may then sit silent until the next sequence begins.
 
Normally, when a ham repeater is first keyed up, or "cerchuncked", it will send an ID immediately. If no one then uses the machine, it will ID again in 10 minutes, then stay quiet.  If someone does use the machine, it will ID every 10 minutes during the conversation.  If the conversation ends after 27 minutes, then after an additional 3 minutes, the machine will send the final ID at the 30 minute time slot, then be silent until keyed up again.
 
For GMRS, there is nothing in the rules that require a repeater to ID, but the operators must.  Just for good measure, most repeater operators ID their machines as well.  I have mine set up just like a ham repeater, except the ID timer is set to 15 minutes rather than 10 minutes.  It stays silent until I key it up, then it will ID after the first transmission.  If I talk for 3 minutes, then sign off, it will stay quiet for 12 minutes, then send the final ID before going back quiet.
 
By the way, I use Bridgecom repeaters as you mentioned, and they already have this Morse ID function built-in.  At set-up, you type in your call sign, and set the ID timer for 10 or 15 minute intervals.

My family uses unit numbers, but not very often. Names work just as good.
 
In my family; my wife and I, and our oldest son are all hams.  Our 2 younger sons are not hams. (yet)
 
What's funny is that our youngest son takes this GMRS identification business more seriously than any of the rest of us.  I will call him on GMRS as: "Hey Mike, it's Dad, copy?"  He will respond with: "This is WQYM-Five Four One, unit 5 to unit 1, go ahead Dad."

Minor nit-pick here...
 
When I go to the shop area on MyGMRS.com, I seem to be stuck in there, as in there is nothing to click on to return to the main root page of mygmrs.com.  Clicking on the HOME link returns me to the shop home page, as it should, but clicking on the MyGMRS.com logo on the top of the page also returns me to the shop/mygmrs.com page.  I think that clicking the main logo from the shop home page should return to the main site page rather than shop home again.
 
Same with forums as well.  while clicking on the top logo from a thread page, it is nice to go back to the forum home, but clicking the main logo from the forum home page should return to the main mygmrs page.  Right now, clicking the logo from the forum home page goes nowhere, just re-loads the forum home page.

I was assuming you had a tower, and wanted the best of the best.  Since you are talking about a simple push-up pole, I will have to agree with Radioguy7268 that the DB404 would be overkill, and might tend to overload the support pole when iced.  The DB404 would survive the ice, but might not survive the fall to the ground when the pole snapped.
 
My next best recommendation for you would be to look into a Comet CA-712EFC for about $150. Much lighter weight. With the money you save on the antenna, and since you are going about 120-150 feet for the coax run, I would take that saved money, and put it into an extremely low-loss coaxial cable such as LDF4-50A Heliax or similar.  If you can save 3dB of loss in your coax cable, you will literally be doubling your power to the antenna.
 
If you do decide to go with the Comet for GMRS, be sure to order the model with the "C" on the end.  The popular CA-712EF is a Ham antenna tuned for 430-450 MHz. The one ending in "EFC" is the commercial version, tuned for 460-470 MHz.

Longer is not better in this case. GMRS is UHF. A quarter wavelength is about 6 inches.
The NA-701c is a dual band antenna designed for commercial bands, and GMRS. It will work, but you really do not need a dual-band antenna.
The NA-771 is a dual ham band antenna, Being longer, It will do better on VHF 2-meter ham band, but not as good on GMRS, which is out of its operating range.
 
If you want greater range, use an external antenna on your roof, or on the top of your vehicle.  For portable operation, you aren't going to get much more range with any rubber-duck antenna - the factory one will do just fine.

One thing that VHF and UHF ham radio has over GMRS is the ability to use modes other than FM.
 
Keep in mind that it is a whole different world on 2-meter and 70cm when you start playing with CW, (Morse code), TV, (yes, Television), Data, (Packet, APRS), FAX imaging, AM, and single-sideband phone modes.  You will find that there are thousands of other hams playing with those modes also.

I hear DTMF tones all over Nebraska on MURS.  I looked into it a year ago, and found out that several farms in the area use MURS for a remote monitoring and telemetry system for their crop irrigation systems and water wells.  There is also at least one company making MURS remote alarm systems for farm buildings and gates.
 
MURS is legal for all of those kinds of things, so that's likely what you're hearing.
 
Most people using MURS for these types of operations do not even know what frequency or band they are using.  All they know is that they purchased this wireless thing that lets them know back home when someone opens the pasture gate, and they have another wireless thing that tells them how many gallons per minute the pump is flowing.

Free is ALWAYS the right price.  ...and if your 213 is free, then you can afford to buy a slightly better antenna to make up for the loss.

Minor nit-pick here...
 
When I go to the shop area on MyGMRS.com, I seem to be stuck in there, as in there is nothing to click on to return to the main root page of mygmrs.com.  Clicking on the HOME link returns me to the shop home page, as it should, but clicking on the MyGMRS.com logo on the top of the page also returns me to the shop/mygmrs.com page.  I think that clicking the main logo from the shop home page should return to the main site page rather than shop home again.
 
Same with forums as well.  while clicking on the top logo from a thread page, it is nice to go back to the forum home, but clicking the main logo from the forum home page should return to the main mygmrs page.  Right now, clicking the logo from the forum home page goes nowhere, just re-loads the forum home page.

I'm so old that I did learn everything, but now I'm forgetting most of it.

It sounds like you are wanting us to reassure you by telling you that those 701c are the big bomb diggetty, and that you'll talk for 30 miles further on one of them, but that's just not the case.   You are not going to see much difference, if any at all on UHF, by spending money on one of those over-rated, over-priced Japanese named Taiwanese antennas.
 
If you were operating VHF, as in 2-meter ham or MURS, one of those would get you better range, but on UHF they make no difference.
Yes, I have a 701, (not c version) on a Wouxun KG-UVD1p, and it does much better than a stock antenna on 2 Meters, but it makes no difference on 70cm (430-450MHz) than the stock antenna, and it gets worse performance on GMRS (462-467MHz). The c version at least is tuned for MURS and GMRS, but still wont give any true gain over the stock antenna on GMRS.
 
With that said, I don't know what other information you are looking to gain.  We're not being snarky, we're being truthful. If you are expecting triple or double the distance with one of these antennas, you will be disappointed.  You will be lucky to gain an additional 25 feet of range over the stock antenna.

Once again, for some reason the original post has been edited, but in this case, the subject line sums up the original question, and several posts agreed on a valid answer.
 
There is already a well established "Highway" or "Travel Channel" for GMRS, and it is 462.675 with a CTCSS Tone of 141.3Hz.
 
Again, on a Midland MicroMobile, (and many other GMRS or Combo radios) that would be channel 20 with a "Privacy Code" of 22. (However, check your radio's owner's manual for the privacy or quiet code that matches 141.3 Hz.  Not all radios are mapped the same for these codes.)
 
This frequency can be used in repeater mode, or simplex if a repeater is not available in the area.
 
...and if you don't want to miss any possible action, then use WRAF233's suggestion, and just set the radio to "SCAN".
 
Also of note, just yesterday, I was traveling on US HWY 81 in North Central Kansas, and heard 2 truckers using channel 20-22.

Once again, for some reason the original post has been edited, but in this case, the subject line sums up the original question, and several posts agreed on a valid answer.
 
There is already a well established "Highway" or "Travel Channel" for GMRS, and it is 462.675 with a CTCSS Tone of 141.3Hz.
 
Again, on a Midland MicroMobile, (and many other GMRS or Combo radios) that would be channel 20 with a "Privacy Code" of 22. (However, check your radio's owner's manual for the privacy or quiet code that matches 141.3 Hz.  Not all radios are mapped the same for these codes.)
 
This frequency can be used in repeater mode, or simplex if a repeater is not available in the area.
 
...and if you don't want to miss any possible action, then use WRAF233's suggestion, and just set the radio to "SCAN".
 
Also of note, just yesterday, I was traveling on US HWY 81 in North Central Kansas, and heard 2 truckers using channel 20-22.

That's real nice, but on this forum, we generally try not to recommend people doing illegal things.  Keep in mind that Baofeng UV-5 series and F8 series radios are not type accepted for use on GMRS, thus, you are in fact breaking the law.
 
If you were running a Part 95 accepted 25-40 Watt radio such as a Kenwood, Motorola, or even a Midland MXT400 with a quarter-wave antenna on your roof, you would be able to easily reach the back of your convoy at 3-5 Miles, legally.