tweiss3
-
Posts
805 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Classifieds
Posts posted by tweiss3
-
-
6 hours ago, Lscott said:
For a glove-box beater radio at the price point it might be worth it.
I get redundancy, but I would rather have a car charger for my portable than another radio in the glove box that I need to maintain the battery on. The portable I carry is the redundant, the mobile is primary.
-
And the IC-9700 can't even receive GMRS, its filters are too tight it has a hard stop at 450MHz.
-
I don't have the radio listed, but I do have a Larsen NMO150/450/857 antenna that covers all of VHF high, UHF and the 700/800 band. It is connected to a radio that does all those bands in one. I don't scan airband, but it's not much outside the VHF LMR band.
Attached is the SWR scan of mine attic mounted:
-
Family use mostly. I have had a few conversations with neighborhood watch at my old house, but everyone there was also a ham (they only used GMRS to include the whole neighborhood).
-
Bioenno (LiFePO4 batteries) provides two quick charts with run times:
Normal Duty Cycle (80% RX, 20% TX)
Field Day Duty Cycle (50% RX, 50% TX)
Using 50/50 for a 50W radio, you are looking at something like a 60AH battery to get 48 hours. If you turn the radio down to 10W, and cut your duty cycle to hourly or every 2 hour check ins, you can get away with much less battery.
-
@Sshannon I'm not too concerned with running digital modes while mobile. I did buy used, and it does come with a DigiRig, not sure how to set the cables up so they are accessible though. That is a spring problem.
I've used RTSystems for most all of my ham rigs (9700, 7300, 705, DJ-G7, TH-D74, VX-7, FT450D, FT3D) and its a nice simple way to program things, and copy/paste memories.
Yaesu radios tend to have great nearby rejection and great filter sets. I would expect the 891 to be the same.
@marcspaz Already started. Unfortunately it is 1 slot short to allow for 10m FM in scan.
Excited to get this in my hands and get it installed.
-
To avoid taking over the other thread (more than we already did), I know a few have this radio @marcspaz @Sshannon.
Mine is going to be mobile in the car, using my Little Tarheel II and the Tunematic (891 pigtail is on the way) for 6m-80m. That being said, any tricks/tips on programming and use? I picked up RTSystems for it to get it programmed more easily. I still have to look into the memory groups thing again.
-
Just now, WRYN359 said:
Was thinking magnetic mount though so I don't have to connect/disconnect the cable every time we go somewhere. I'm concerned that while connectors are relatively low loss, over the course of a summer' or two worth of camping the conductor connections may not be as tight even if the threads are tight and I will get excess signal loss. Maybe that's not a valid concern, which would be great because then I could use more of a base station style antenna rather than a mobile style antenna.
I wouldn't worry about the connector. If you really are concerned, then don't disconnect the cable from the antenna. You have to coil the cable anyways when the pole is collapsed, keep it attached. You are correct, you can use a base style antenna as well.
-
Mounts to the pole no problems, then use any mobile antenna you want; quarter wave, half wave, 5/8's, all will work well.
-
Just now, Chris0275 said:
Thank you for the reply, is the "light" emitted from the tip of the antenna or the middle? I guess what I'm asking is if some of the top of the antenna protrudes beyond the roof line, would I be getting that all around "light" or would I still be losing some coverage for the parts of the antenna that do not extend above the roofline? Thanks again!
It is emitted along the entire radiating element. Look at the average location, which would be the middle. Ideally you want the base as close to meeting the elevation of the roof line, then you won't get any shadowing from the body of the truck.
FYI, when modeling antennas for range over topography, you use the base of the antenna, if that gives you any indication on how important it is to get the entire antenna above the car body.
-
There was a thread where the jeep owner mounted the antenna over the spare tire on a plate. Personally, I would prefer a 1/2 wave in a similar location (perhaps the base could be nearer the roof line) over the front bumper mounts.
My understanding is that the AUS version of CB is UHF, and I can't explain why they all mount in that location other than "it's always how we did it". Keeping the coax out of the engine bay and away from other electronics, and putting the antenna as high as possible, with as much ground plane as possible would be my priorities.
- wayoverthere, WRUU653 and Chris0275
-
3
-
-
Each connector adds approximately 0.1db of loss. Other than the fact that at 50' you already have 4.4db of loss (64%) in power and sensitivity, the connector not a concern.
- WRXB215, shawnvanhorn, WRZM243 and 1 other
-
4
-
You may be better off getting a handheld scanner. They typically are much better on receive in the airband than any radio, plus scan much faster. In fact, I used to listen to airband with my FTM400, but since switching radios, I haven't missed it, and use a handheld scanner full time in my truck instead.
-
Unfortunately that antenna location leaves your feedline open to interference from noisy injectors/computer hardware. What cable is used between the radio and mount? Is it a double shielded? You could try to wrap the cable in the engine bay in aluminum foil (and add a bond strap to the body) and see if it helps.
Another thought is check the grounding strap between the block and body. I've heard of that coming loose/corroding out and causing RFI issues.
Next steps would be to start throwing money at it to bond everything, ground everything, etc. You likely will be better off drilling the hole and roof mounting the antenna.
-
-
-
I just bought a RigExpert Stick XPro that does antenna analysis DC-1000MHz as well as cable testing. For the form+features it was worth the money. As for an inline meter, I think its pretty unnecessary to leave in place full time. The only ones that stay in place are on repeaters, and those are Bird inline meters.
-
28 minutes ago, marcspaz said:
@tweiss3 I have the FT-891 in my Jeep. That radio is an absolute winner. I have worked 103 countries while mobile, including most of Europe, New Zealand, South Africa, and several in Asia and most of South America. 10/10 would recommend.
Yea, I've used my 705 at 10W to get 250 miles or so into a "local" net on my way home on 80 meters, which I think is pretty impressive. I just don't know if I have the space for another deck tucked away.
-
Too bad the KG-UV980 only does 10W on 6 & 10. It's also a shame those two bands are so forgotten, especially since they can actually use a decent size whip on mobiles and be effective.
I've long thought I'd like the Yasesu version, and even thought of getting the TYT monstrosity many times, but other things pull me away. Honestly, I won't get 6m in my truck until the NX-5600HB is unlocked for 6, and at this point, its probably a better idea to grab a FT-891 permanently installed and get the 6 thru 40 on the wife's car.
-
TKR850 has it built into the firmware/software. Most commercial repeaters have it included in their software, just have to enable it.
-
15 hours ago, gortex2 said:
So Kenwoods version of MDC.....
Which they seem to have abandoned on the VP8000.
Other than the Quantar/Quantro having built in MDC decode, any other hardware or external controllers that are currently in production that can handle MDC? I was looking just to point of researching it, and haven't found anything.
-
-
FT-891
in Amateur Radio (Ham)
Posted
Anyone deal with programming memories with an odd split? There is one 6m repeater that is +600kHz, but all the others are +1MHz.