What's your GMRS mobile setup, and how does it work for you?

[WRQC527]

Just thought I'd throw a subject out there that might help new licensees as they venture into GMRS, and maybe folks who want to know what other folks are doing so they can up their game. There's so many mobile radios, antennas, vehicles, mounts, and use cases, Personally, I have a cheap QYT mobile and a Rugged Radios Point5 half wave antenna. It works well enough. Maybe this thread will take off, maybe it will fail to launch. We'll see.

[WRKC935]

My personal setup is a bit overkill for anyone new to radio.  I run an APX8500 and a Comet 2X4 antenna.

So that being said.  A good starting configuration for the folks just getting into GMRS is gonna be an NMO mag mount with a unity gain whip.   That is by far the least expensive option and will still give reasonable performance to get you on the air and talking on the local repeaters and some simplex as well.

One of the things that people fail to understand, especially with mobile setups is the amount of available gain in mobile antenna's from unity gain to the highest numbers available is only about a 9 dB difference.  Now while that sounds like a ton of gain, when you are looking at signal levels in a radio and what is receivable and whats solid copy all falls into a range of about 6 to 9dB.  If your squelch is set to -118dBm which is pretty typical, could be as high as -110 dBm but that's pretty tight.  When you are at -118dBm you are gonna be about 25% noise.  But if you open the squelch up more and go down to -120dBm signal level you are now at 50% plus noise with your signal.  So down at that level it matters. 

That being said.  If you increase from -120 to -110, you are typically going to be perfect copy, and by the time you are at -107 you are solid.  Any increase from there is NOT going to have any effect on your signal.  You will sound the same from -105 to -50dBm.  The reception just doesn't change. 

Point is this.  If you have a local repeater that has a signal level of -100dBm in all the area's that you travel, putting a 9 dB gain antenna gets you NOTHING for increased signal.  And UHF is finicky.   Hills and valleys  will block the signal no matter the antenna gain.  I have two radios in my truck.  One is an XPR4550 with a unity gain whip.  The other is the 8500 with the 2X4 Comet.  When I start loosing the repeater on either radio due to topography, both radios suffer equally.  The signal is just blocked and there is nothing that can be done about that.  And there are places that I can't talk on my repeater that are less than 10 miles from it, but there are places I can talk on my repeater that are 60 miles from it.  So bear that in mind when your signal fades out and comes back and you feel you would be doing better to go drop $100 on a wiz-bang high gain mobile and antenna and mount thinking it's gonna cure all your problems.

 

[OffRoaderX]

Geezus..Learn to read the room dude.. 

In my Jeep I started with a BTech GMRS 50X2, after a year or so i upgraded to the KG-1000G which I used for a few years and then replaced that with a Motorola XTL5000 (NOT recommended for most people).. IMO, the KG-1000G is the best choice for most people in this forum.

The entire time I have been using a Midland MXTA26 antenna.

A simple setup like this (any of the 3 radios I've had) will work more than well enough for most people, no need to learn about db gains or noise reduction %%.. Those terms, when over-used, are most often spouted by "some people" that feel an uncontrollable urge to try and show everyone how smart they think they are.

[marcspaz]

 

I am currently using a Motorola XTL5000 and a Diamond NR-7900 antenna and together they are fantastic.

 

I have had great luck with the KG-1000g and MXT500.  The Gen 2 Midland MXT400 isn't bad, but the price vs lack of features and difficulty of programming push it lower on the list.  I would need to get one at about 30% of retail before I would buy one over the other two.  I would 100% buy the Gen 2 MXT400 over any mobile Baofeng/BTech mobile radio.  Some people love them (and I like their handhelds), but I have had several of them break within days... even minutes of installation.

 

With regard to antennas, I have also had great performance with the MXTA26 and the Tram 1126-B.

[SteveShannon]

I use a Radioddity DB20G with a Midland MXTA26 antenna.  I connect the two with a Midland MXTA13 magnetic NMO mount centered on the steel roof of my 4Runner.  The whip on the antenna is much taller than the roof rack.

For a handheld I use a Garmin Rhino with built in topo maps.  It displays my location and the locations of my friends who also have Garmin Rhinos  

 

[WRXB215]

UV-5R "GMRS" with an old Radio Shack scanner antenna I had in the garage from way back. Home made adapter. Yes, I can actually talk to people with this thing. 

[nokones]

I have a Motorola XTL5000 R2 with an O5 control head Dashmount for my Base Station radio connected to a Laird B4502N 2.4 dB omni 1/2 wave non-ground plane antenna that was installed in my garage attic. My Laird FG4505 5 dB Omni base station antenna is on the roof and is used for my repeater station.

For my mobile, I am using a Motorola XTL5000 R2 with an O5 control head remote mount and a Laird B4502 2.4 dB omni 1/2 wave non-ground plane antenna on a Midland Magmount base. The Midland Magmount base actually isn't too shabby if you whack off the cheap Chinese PL259 connector and replace it with an Amphenol connector.

I preferred the Motorola radios because of the operating band ranges for Part 90 freqs, the 1,000 channel capacity, multiple conventional channel configurations, multiple Scan Lists, multiple programming zones, choice to use analog and Astro Digital on a per channel basis, talkaround, and a true monitor feature that defeats the receiver PL feature. 

I currently have 25 zones programmed in my radios for a total of 396 channel configurations.

In my Truck, I have my control head mounted using a RAM ball-mount configuration with the Ram Can placed in my center console cup holder.

 

[quarterwave]

I've used a variety of setups, probably the most effective ever was a Motorola Spectra 9000 A9 and a 1/4 wave mounted antenna. That was a long time ago. 

[Blaise]

I'm still new to radio, but for the last year, I too run a Radioddity DB20G, with a Tram through-glass antenna.  Folks will tell you this antenna is garbage, and it may be, but I get a 1.1 SWR with it, and can hit repeaters 40-60 miles away, depending on my altitude, so I guess the 20 watts deals with the 'bad' antenna issues pretty well!

Advantages to the DB20G are that a) it's so small I was able to securely mount its rail to the dashboard with removable alien tape, b) it had a 12 volt plug built in, and c) it's unlockable, so I now I can monitor marine band, MURS, and ham frequencies in addition to GMRS while I drive.

[WRUE951]

12 hours ago, OffRoaderX said:

 

XTL5000 (NOT recommended for most people).. 

Curious why you don't recommend the XTL5000 for 'most people'.... Is it because of the programming hassles?      Seems like these radios are 'Gold' on Ebay...  Wouldn't mind having one or two myself.  

 

[SteveShannon]

2 hours ago, Blaise said:

Advantages to the DB20G are that a) it's so small I was able to securely mount its rail to the dashboard with removable alien tape

I just wedge mine between my seat and the center seat or console.
The attached picture shows the radio in my pickup. 

[marcspaz]

57 minutes ago, WRUE951 said:

Curious why you don't recommend the XTL5000 for 'most people'.... Is it because of the programming hassles?      Seems like these radios are 'Gold' on Ebay...  Wouldn't mind having one or two myself.

 

I am not speaking for Randy... but I agree it's not for everyone.  The are large, get hot, have more than enough power and programing capability to get you in trouble (if the FCC ever starts enforcing the rules).  You could legit get a surplus radio that wasn't decommissioned correctly or not at all and all of a sudden you can find yourself on Fire, Police or some federal agencies digital encryption system and a lot of trouble.  (Not an I guess or think.  A buddy found a bunch on ebay)

 

Then, one in good shape will be anywhere from $700-$1,000.  You need to acquire one that is new enough that the programing software will run on modern Windows unless you have a way-back machine or are a computer systems engineer who know how to 'fake it' with a legacy OS.  Then, you have to know how to program it once you actually get the software going.

 

I wouldn't tell anyone that they are not capable of accomplishing any of this... but unless you are a tech savvy person with time and resources on your hands, it can be time consuming and frustrating to start with.  Given that many new users struggle with using tones and getting repeater access configured, I don't normally point people in this direction.

[OffRoaderX]

1 hour ago, WRUE951 said:

Curious why you don't recommend the XTL5000 for 'most people'.... Is it because of the programming hassles?      Seems like these radios are 'Gold' on Ebay...  Wouldn't mind having one or two myself.  

Pretty much what @marcspaz said:  They are not consumer radios, they are difficult to install, they are large/bulky, usually very expensive and are VERY tricky to program IF you can even get the software. They are also not "FCC legal" for GMRS, but since the FCC doesn't care, neither do I.

[nokones]

47 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

I just wedge mine between my seat and the center console.

I used to do that with my Cobra 19 CB Radio in my old 04 Chevrolet C3500 P/U.  My 21 Chevrolet C3500 P/U wouldn't accommodate the squeeze-in very well and besides, I replaced my Cobra 19 with a Cobra 29 LTD Nightwatch with FM, so I had to fabricate a way to hang the CB on the passenger side of the center console.

[Hoppyjr]

I’m running the Midland MTX575 with the Midland 3db “Ghost” antenna mounted in the rear roof of my 4Runner. Works great.

I’d absolutely love to score a Motorola 5000 as I’ve found the brand to perform extremely well in my past career.

[nokones]

57 minutes ago, marcspaz said:

 

I am not speaking for Randy... but I agree it's not for everyone.  The are large, get hot, have more than enough power and programing capability to get you in trouble (if the FCC ever starts enforcing the rules).  You could legit get a surplus radio that wasn't decommissioned correctly or not at all and all of a sudden you can find yourself on Fire, Police or some federal agencies digital encryption system and a lot of trouble.  (Not an I guess or think.  A buddy found a bunch on ebay)

 

Then, one in good shape will be anywhere from $700-$1,000.  You need to acquire one that is new enough that the programing software will run on modern Windows unless you have a way-back machine or are a computer systems engineer who know how to 'fake it' with a legacy OS.  Then, you have to know how to program it once you actually get the software going.

 

I wouldn't tell anyone that they are not capable of accomplishing any of this... but unless you are a tech savvy person with time and resources on your hands, it can be time consuming and frustrating to start with.  Given that many new users struggle with using tones and getting repeater access configured, I don't normally point people in this direction.

Agree, most people can get themselves in serious trouble if they don't know the programming parameters and the FCC rules and regs pertaining to Part 95, Subpart E, when operating on GMRS freqs.  Programming an Astro 25 Radio is more than just plunking in a bunch of freqs and tone/codes.

They will need to know how to program the Low/High Power Level settings on both the 44 watt and the high power 110 Watt radios when operating on Part 95 freqs.  You won't be legal if you program the 462 & 467 MHz freqs in the 110 Watt High Power Radio with the high Tx power level set above 50 Watts.  You might as well forget about  being legal if you have any of the interstitial freqs programmed in a high power transceiver.  The high power radio lowest power level setting is 24 watts.

As for the 44 watt radio.  You can legally program the 462 MHz interstitial freqs if your lower power level setting is for 5 watts and that you correctly set up the channel personality accordingly.  Forget about the 467 MHz interstitial freqs, you can't make it legally happen and a Part 90 portable radio will definitely be suspect of being illegal even on the low power setting unless your antenna is a POS and the ERP is point five watt or less.

If a person elects to go with an Astro 25 radio set up, definitely, do not wire the power leads to any interior electrical circuits like the cigarette lighter or fuse blocks especially, on a later car with a gazillion computer modules.  Motorola recommends the "Red" plus-power lead be wired directly to the battery and the ground wire to chassis ground, not battery ground.  If you want the radio and control head to switch off/on with the key, the "Yellow" Ignition sense wire will need to be wired to the ignition switch side of the ignition switch or you can home-run the "Yellow" wire directly to the battery, and you will have to turn the radio on/off at the controlhead.  Don't forget to set the programming parameter in the CPS on the option you take with the yellow wire or you won't be able to power up at all.

 

Other than that, the install, programming, and use is essentially a "piece-of- cake and very cool to have.

[SteveShannon]

5 minutes ago, nokones said:

Agree, most people can get themselves in serious trouble if they don't know the programming parameters and the FCC rules and regs pertaining to Part 95, Subpart E, when operating on GMRS freqs.  Programming an Astro 25 Radio is more than just plunking in a bunch of freqs and tone/codes.

They will need to know how to program the Low/High Power Level settings on both the 44 watt and the high power 110 Watt radios when operating on Part 95 freqs.  You won't be legal if you program the 462 & 467 MHz freqs in the 110 Watt High Power Radio with the high Tx power level set above 50 Watts.  You might as well forget about  being legal if you have any of the interstitial freqs programmed in a high power transceiver.  The high power radio lowest power level setting is 24 watts.

As for the 44 watt radio.  You can legally program the 462 MHz interstitial freqs if your lower power level setting is for 5 watts and that you correctly set up the channel personality accordingly.  Forget about the 467 MHz interstitial freqs, you can't make it legally happen and a Part 90 portable radio will definitely be suspect of being illegal even on the low power setting unless your antenna is a POS and the ERP is point five watt or less.

If a person elects to go with an Astro 25 radio set up, definitely, do not wire the power leads to any interior electrical circuits like the cigarette lighter or fuse blocks especially, on a later car with a gazillion computer modules.  Motorola recommends the "Red" plus-power lead be wired directly to the battery and the ground wire to chassis ground, not battery ground.  If you want the radio and control head to switch off/on with the key, the "Yellow" Ignition sense wire will need to be wired to the ignition switch side of the ignition switch or you can home-run the "Yellow" wire directly to the battery, and you will have to turn the radio on/off at the controlhead.  Don't forget to set the programming parameter in the CPS on the option you take with the yellow wire or you won't be able to power up at all.

 

Other than that, the install, programming, and use is essentially a "piece-of- cake and very cool to have.

Perfect example of why a commercial radio isn’t ideal for people who just want to buy a pair of radios off the shelf, get a license, and talk to their family while recreating. 

[back4more70]

1 hour ago, Sshannon said:

I just wedge mine between my seat and the center seat or console.
The attached picture shows the radio in my pickup. 

I made a little wooden holder for my RA25 in my Trailblazer (ignore the Wyoming dust).

[nokones]

3 hours ago, WRUE951 said:

Seems like these radios are 'Gold' on Ebay...  Wouldn't mind having one or two myself.  

In case you want to pursue the Motorola Astro 25 Mobile option, I have an extra 44 watt R2 Range (450-512 MHz) transceiver that I'll sell you for a couple hundred dollars, not including shipping.  This transceiver works with the APX series O3 or O5 control heads.  You would need to acquire the control head, the control head power/speaker cable assembly, microphone, data control cable, control head bracket and they are plentiful on eBay.  I have a spare speaker and transceiver power cable that I can throw in with the transceiver. 

I will program the radio to your specs and guarantee the radio works upon delivery.  I can provide the necessary pictures to ensure the radio does power up and is on the up and up.  I have several extra XTL5000 radios and I truly just don't need all the radios I currently have.

The radio is not equipped with any Encryption features or is Password protected and was factory flashed for Smart Zone Trunking.

Let me know if you're interested.  Email Link below.

[OffRoaderX]

1 hour ago, nokones said:

Agree, most people can get themselves in serious trouble if they don't know the programming parameters and the FCC rules and regs pertaining to Part 95, Subpart E, when operating on GMRS freqs. 

...Forget about the 467 MHz interstitial freqs, you can't make it legally happen and a Part 90 portable radio will definitely be suspect of being illegal even on the low power setting unless your antenna is a POS and the ERP is point five watt or less.

That sounds serious!  What kind of serious trouble?

[Blaise]

52 minutes ago, OffRoaderX said:

That sounds serious!  What kind of serious trouble?

The serious kind, obviously!

[nokones]

1 hour ago, OffRoaderX said:

That sounds serious!  What kind of serious trouble?

Seriously, the serious stuff! Kinda like when you have been directed to the Vice Principal's Office and you know that he will be getting out the special paddle with the aerodynamically holes and custom grip handle that you won't be feeling that swat for a week.

[labreja]

I run a Kenwood TK-880-1 ver2.  with a Midland MXTA26.  Because the truck is aluminum, I attached a magnet behind the third brake light.  That is how I got the mag mount to stay.  Non of the radios or the mic holders are screwed in.  They are all mounted using double face tape.

[WRUE951]

5 hours ago, OffRoaderX said:

Hytera Radios..  I just got a lead on a Hytera PD782 Handheld and an HM782 dual band Mobil for a very good deal. Both radios are new..  Handheld is 350-570 mobile is dual band 136-174/350-470 complete w/ programing software and cables.  I've never heard of Hytera Radios and curious of anyone has knowledge on these..   $600 for both seems like a damn good deal.  

 

[WRXL324]

I have an XPR2500 in my pickup. The majority of my mobile units are Motorola PM400 and MCS2000. My handhelds are CP200 and PR1500. My repeater is a Vertex VXR-7000 with the antenna on top of a 100 foot grain leg. I use my system for LMR and recently reprogrammed to GMRS for dual functionality. I have all the programming software and cables because my nearest Moto dealer is 50 miles away. I do use a Baofeng UV-5R for testing new programming on my own system and when I program other peoples radios. The UV-5R is super handy because of its flexibility on being field programmable without the need of a computer.