50 watts or 15? Same range?

[WRYD530]

I currently have a mxt575 with a mxta26 antenna mag mounted to roof. 
I would like to add another radio to another truck. I could save a couple hundred bucks and go with a mxt275 15 watts and same antenna. Will I be disappointed with the range on 15 watts?  

[Guest]

I’d personally save ALOT of money and head ache rand skip midland and get a good quality radio for less money or a waaay better quality radio for the same money.  $100 for a 20w, $150 for a 50w.   My 20w does well over 200miles so most people do not need a 50w.  

[WSAM454]

Can you turn down the power on your existing radio, and see how the coverage is with around 15 Watts?

[SteveShannon]

3 hours ago, WRYD530 said:

I currently have a mxt575 with a mxta26 antenna mag mounted to roof. 
I would like to add another radio to another truck. I could save a couple hundred bucks and go with a mxt275 15 watts and same antenna. Will I be disappointed with the range on 15 watts?  

Probably not. UHF is limited to line of sight and that doesn’t change with power. 
However, if you’re separated from your target radio by materials that attenuate the signal, having more power can make a difference. 

[WSAH999]

3 hours ago, WRXP381 said:

I’d personally save ALOT of money and head ache rand skip midland and get a good quality radio for less money or a waaay better quality radio for the same money.  $100 for a 20w, $150 for a 50w.   My 20w does well over 200miles so most people do not need a 50w.  

I second this, I personally would recommend the Anytone AT-778UV (Yeah it's a 2m/70cm HAM radio, but they make a GMRS version.... or you can unlock that one, either way.)

Most people in my area on GMRS have one, and love it. It's perfect for hitting the repeaters and without breaking the bank. Perfect little radio.

[WSAH999]

Also to answer the main question with something I remember someone telling me:

A $2000 Radio with a $20 antenna might as well be a $20 radio.

A $200 radio with a $2000 antenna might as well be a $2000 radio.

 

Of course the differences USUALLY between a $200 Radio and a $2000 radio is quality of life features (Not including digital modes)

[WRKC935]

Something to keep in mind.

Ham radio satellites are running 1 to 4 watts. 

Ham radio satellites orbit over 100 miles from the earths surface.  So it has a LOT to do with line of site and less to do with lots of power.

 

[ClassicCarGuy]

On 3/16/2024 at 2:45 AM, WSAH999 said:

I second this, I personally would recommend the Anytone AT-778UV (Yeah it's a 2m/70cm HAM radio, but they make a GMRS version.... or you can unlock that one, either way.)

Most people in my area on GMRS have one, and love it. It's perfect for hitting the repeaters and without breaking the bank. Perfect little radio.

what is the correct and easier way on the Anytone AT-778UV to connect on repeater.

Thanks,,,,

[amaff]

1 hour ago, WRZM228 said:

what is the correct and easier way on the Anytone AT-778UV to connect on repeater.

Thanks,,,,

The easier way is to do it using the software.
To do it on the radio isn't too hard. The thing no directions I've found will tell you is that when you go to program in the transmit tone (or encode, I forget what they call it), you need to hit the MON button to switch between the tone modes and allow you to select a tone. In "off" you can't select a tone. Then it goes something like CTS > Custom > DTS. Or something to that effect.

There's a really good guide on here for how to work the menu on the 778 clones, let me see if I can find it.


Here (and the post I was quoting)
 

 

[ClassicCarGuy]

1 hour ago, amaff said:

The easier way is to do it using the software.
To do it on the radio isn't too hard. The thing no directions I've found will tell you is that when you go to program in the transmit tone (or encode, I forget what they call it), you need to hit the MON button to switch between the tone modes and allow you to select a tone. In "off" you can't select a tone. Then it goes something like CTS > Custom > DTS. Or something to that effect.

There's a really good guide on here for how to work the menu on the 778 clones, let me see if I can find it.


Here (and the post I was quoting)
 

 

I tried it before in manual, I couldn't get it right. I'll try the software and see.

Thanks!

[Guest]

48 minutes ago, WRZM228 said:

I tried it before in manual, I couldn't get it right. I'll try the software and see.

Thanks!

Can I ask how do you know you didn’t get it right?   Many people I come across think they did something wrong and spend countless hours trying to figure it out only to find out they are just not close enough or don’t have good line of sight.  

[ClassicCarGuy]

I only tried it one time in  this radio. But I have a hunch after several tries in the handheld, it is possible that what you're saying is true. I'l going drop the laird magnamount antenna in my car and try it again. That antenna transmits and receives very far especially where I live which is high elevation. and see if I can get it to ping.

BTW: Does anyone know or have a bulletin in adding a cooling fan in this radio? Anytone AT-778UV

[WSAK388]

Power matters, but in my experience it doesn’t matter as much as elevation, line of sight, and other factors. As an anecdote, I can JUST hit my local repeater 33 miles away from my back yard on 20 watts with about a 20’ mast height, but I was barely readable. Turning the power up to 50 watts, I was able to punch through and be heard well. 
 

On the other hand, from a slightly different area with a cleaner LoS to the repeater’s location, 20 watts is plenty to have a great conversation. So yes, power matters, but all the power in the world won’t make up as much ground as location and elevation. 

[LeoG]

I have an interesting situation where I can take advantage of stratospheric ducting when it aligns correctly.  I'm in the upper section of CT and when the ducting happens I can communicate with a repeater on LI NY but I have a 700+ foot mountain in the way.  I can hit the repeater using 25 watts and 5 watts.  The repeater by way of crow is 67 miles away.  I have no idea what path the signal actually takes but I'm sure it's longer than 67 miles line of site.

So power really doesn't matter when you have a clear path.  It's only when you have to punch through obstacles that you might need more power.

[gortex2]

My parents run the 275 in both there vehicles. Never once have they complained they can't talk to the repeater or talk simplex when they need to. Its all about what your use case is. Personally I use the midlands areound the home on all my tractor/utility vehicles as they are decent and simple. I also run the 275 in both my Jeeps for off road again never needed more. I guess if your trying to talk to a repeater a million miles away you may need more but being most folks use a handheld to talk on my repeaters the extra power doesn't do anything. 

[AdmiralCochrane]

19 hours ago, WSAK388 said:

Power matters, but in my experience it doesn’t matter as much as elevation, line of sight, and other factors. As an anecdote, I can JUST hit my local repeater 33 miles away from my back yard on 20 watts with about a 20’ mast height, but I was barely readable. Turning the power up to 50 watts, I was able to punch through and be heard well. 
 

On the other hand, from a slightly different area with a cleaner LoS to the repeater’s location, 20 watts is plenty to have a great conversation. So yes, power matters, but all the power in the world won’t make up as much ground as location and elevation. 

Yes, on 65cm, actual contact is line of sight.  Power just makes it louder/clearer.