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Grow up ! What the hell is wrong with you ?

@Raybestos integrity is doing the right thing, even when no one is looking. I try to have integrity, but we all have moments of weakness. I didn't write the rules. Like many others, I just interpret them the best I can and honor them with all the integrity I can muster.

There is also knife edge refraction.

You always here that UHF is line of sight. If you can't see it, you can't talk to it. My experience has been otherwise. Granted if you have a 1000' mountain between you and the person you want to talk to it ain't happening simplex. I just upgraded my repeaters power. Same antenna at about 40' off the ground and surrounded by trees 270º around me. Today I took a ride with my 20 watt Wouxun KG-XS20G+ with an MXTA26 Midland magnetically mounted, basically straight north. I had my phone at my repeater as I called out to it recording with a voice activated app. My truck was moving on all of these, probably around 40mph +/- 3.85 miles out with Line Of Site Full Quieting Area.wav Going farther out, on a hill but behind one also 6.54 mi Top of hill past Randal Dr.wav And then down that hill 75 feet below the other peak and still in the shadow of the hill 7.0 mi Hickory St.wav Getting worse but still very readable 7.2 mi Entering Agawam.wav Unreadable at Shoemaker Ln 7.9 mi Shoemaker Ln.wav Sounded much worse on my end and I figured I was done but really it wasn't that bad 9.25 mi McDonalds.wav Cute little experiment. Shows line of sight doesn't mean you can't be heard. Obviously you lose quieting and sometime you lose readability. It was nice to find out I could insert audio.

FYI.. Routing the coax through the rear hatch on my VW Passat wagon seems to have worked best for me. the angle, spacing, and rubber seal seemed to work much better than the doors or sunroof without bending the coax very much at all. Thanks for all the idea and input everyone.

As we all should.

I can read well enough to see your post are filled with typos. What part of the fcc rules escapes me? Please enlighten me. I’ve never said repeaters should be linked. I just don’t agree with your tactics. You’re an a**. I have tried to give you the benefit of the doubt, assuming you may have some personal issues. I wish you luck, however I don’t see the benefit of engaging with you anymore.

“….right over your head….” From the most arrogant guy on this forum.

Correction: Unhealthy and bizarre obsession and fixation against linked repeaters

And yet this thread and its question has nothing to do with linked repeaters. Not everything does you know. Also these repeaters appear to be active. So you are just wrong. Most of all you offered no help for the person looking for info, just your obsession with linked repeaters.

The terrain has a lot to do with contacts beyond the line of sight. UHF bounces off hard surfaces such as concrete and granite. Its very possible your signal was reflecting through canyons. Digital signals don't do well as the bit stream becomes jumbled through the multipath hops.

Hello everyone. Just wanted to come here and say hello from Hood County Texas. I'm just getting started in this hobby. So far, I only have 3 HT's. I will be looking to get a mobile unit when I figure out which one I want. Anyways, I wanted to say thanks in advance for any future help I may need to advance my knowledge. And thanks to the ones here that are on YouTube. You have already helped me out tons!! Vince WRWB752

Soooo, he’s single now? edit: I guess we know why she’s packing up and heading to the parents.

The connectors do not need to match the brand of hardline, but they must be sized correctly. The connector you showed in your picture (L5NF) was made by Andrews. The L5NF is no longer manufactured, but I would think they make something similar. I don't know if it could be reused with the correct preparation, but it looks like it might be an N female, rather than N male. It looks like someone used it with a jumper of coax, possibly something like LMR. I know some people are against using LMR400 for repeaters because it has two different shield metals. If you subscribe to that theory, get M&P Ultraflex 10 jumpers; they are copper for all layers of shielding. So, with the connector you have, with N female on the ends (male thread on the outside, but a female socket on the inside) you would use an N male to N male coax jumper. A short jumper of M&P Ultraflex from Gigaparts will work well.

While true, it doesn’t eliminate his attention seeking behavior. The guy should just put on the dress and change his name to Karen.

The issue is that people keep responding to him instead of putting him on their Ignored User list. That just exacerbates the problem.

Maybe Mom doesn't want to go through the daunting exercise of bouncing from govt website to website in order to manage the jungle to obtain said license. It's only $35 in monies but it's 3 years off your lifespan because of what you need to go through to get it.

Good point. Dear Mom, How are you doing? The siblings and I know you are short on funds, and cannot make this months mortgage payment, so we got together and chipped in. You now have a GMRS license! So exciting! Anyway, Love you! Your kids. (Yes, im going to hell 8-P )

VNA is the proper way to test it. DTF and RL is the base tests I run on all lines.

I’ve had a couple of these for about two years now. I’ve had no issues and despite being way less expensive than other radios I have they work just as good. None of the bells and whistles but solid cheep radios you can beat up that sound good.

We just finished setting up a Motorola Quantar 2m repeater and Arcom RC210 controller with a 6 can duplexer. We still need to get a Raspberry Pi programmed for Allstar. We are going to replace the Yaesu repeater with the Motorola. We did a lot of research before making a purchase of the Motorola Quantar and it was the best option for us.

Now the poor guy has gone running for the hills, and left his radios behind. It’s like the Hatfields and McCoys sometimes.

U Have Fun?

The picture he is showing is of the backside of a regular N connector without the hardline/coax installed. See the nut on the back? I assume it's a male N Connector that someone put on the larger hardline connector to protect it. Update: Here's a pick of it in his previous post.

All of our repeaters are Kenwood units. TKR750 and TKR850. No problems at all.

What was being transmitted, by whom, on what channel? Were they using a tone or digital code to reduce interruptions? If so did you have the same code or tones programmed into your radio? Welcome!

That's only if you have the best radio. And welcome!

Yeah, but really, how far will your radio work?

DXEngineering claims they should ship on the 16th of September. I would just order it rather than letting others get in the queue ahead of you.

From that picture I can’t tell if the center socket is whole or not. Here’s one:

Thanks for looking and giving me the tip, I really appreciate it. I always compare prices prior to pulling the trigger. I have a total dislike for companies that go way above and beyond fair market price and avoid them. I'm in no real hurry and will snag one eventually. It's strange they have been out of stock for so long. I almost am starting to think they might be discontinuing this model. If I have time tomorrow I will call Comet and get an answer from them.

Correction: Unhealthy and bizarre obsession and fixation on seeking attention.

That looks like the one on ARRL's site, though I don't see an option to download it. https://www.arrl.org/rf-exposure-calculator

Welcome, Vince!

Before buying the connectors, see what the manufacturer has for resources for the exact connector you need. The better manufacturers provide training videos. Some (okay, nearly all) strongly recommend using their preparation tools, but once you understand the process you will understand what tools you really need. Here is an example:

the radio I am using was built to be able to use the 12v outlet on a vehicle. I plan on hard wiring it and getting separate radio for my car. I just looked under my front passenger seat and I have a positive and negative wire lugs that come straight from the battery.

There are various reasons not to run the ground directly to the battery. This site explains: http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html

yes its back online. i did a ping on the repeater using my call sign in cw.

Yeah... refraction and scatter are why the RF horizon is further than the visual horizon. Once the photons overcome refraction and start to leave the atmosphere, a very small percentage of the signal is scattered, while most keeps traveling in a straight line. The more power you put out, the more the parts per million the scatter is and the more easily the signal can be pulled out of the atmosphere beyond the line of sight. Using troposcatter with a stacked beam antenna array and 1,500w, I have been able to talk to people in Texas from VA on 146.520 during contests and Field Day. UHF performs the same way. It's been awhile... so I don't remember the max distance we got on 446.000, but it was more than 300 miles.

Yeah, I was thinking about knife edge refraction as well as troposcatter.

I'm starting a new secret society ... The Friends of Randy. We need a secret handshake and password.

There are a few places that I can hit on my base-station that defy all the laws of line-of-sight and I still can't figure out how I can talk to them.. One being on the other side of a 5,000ft mounting. But the other 99.8% is def. line of sight.

They are referring to requests not the repeater. If you are not signed in it says disabled by owner. Although it’s the same information as the forum you need to sign in separately on the map/repeater page. Once you do you’ll not see disabled anymore but rather that the repeaters (ones in question here) are open and the tones are displayed along with the request button. This has nothing to do with “repeaters dropping like flies” as it was suggested by @WRUE951. He’s just obsessed with another topic not relevant here. Try and be helpful people. Edit: in short, once you are able to register here you’ll see the info you are looking for.

Cotre C001D

Quantar is excellent choice. You can find the 25 watt PA models with no issue but the 100 watt can be turned down with no issues. I reecvently switched all our SAR repeaters out to used Quantars and its night and day audio.

We've been running a Motorola Quantar for many years. It's a solid repeater. We only recently put in a DR-2X running in analog. It's been running fine since May. I wouldn't count it out. Our Quantar may have developed a spur that supposedly interferes with a local ham's EME activity, so we'll only use it as a backup now once we get it serviced. That's something to think about with older equipment. Motorolas are bullet proof, but the Quantar is no longer supported by Motorola. Still, a good one will serve you well. Controlling it is tricky unless you have internet at the site. That was one of our issues. I have Motorola's RSS software on a Windows 10 laptop which makes it easy to program if I'm at the repeater. I found it free online.

All this back-and-forth over how many people you can cram under a $35 license. Seems like if these brothers, sisters and nephews ponied up $5 each, they could buy mom her own license. Happy birthday mom!

And as @WRXB215 Stated earlier in the tread... it might be more appropriate for her to user your sister's callsign if she lives closer... use it as unit two or something.

I feel your pain. The Zetron community tone panel we are using on both repeaters have a mode where it will repeat all traffic (like a carrier squelch mode). However, if the incoming tone is one that is enabled, it will encode that on the output. Otherwise it just uses no encode or a single encode code I set for carrier or "wrong code" traffic. This does not impact our users as most run tone squelch, but allows me to hear all the maritime trash. Or the unlicensed users... G