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Copper J-Poles are pretty hard to build for UHF, you must get the precise measurements to a T for the frequencies and they extremely hard to tune SWR's. As others suggested the best way to tune them is via a NANO VNA. I came up with a sliding adjustment gimmick for tuning SWR that works well. Made with cooper compression splices you can get at home depot.

Is there a way to factory reset those and then reload your channels? Seems silly, but I've had similar things happen and a factory reset is what needed to happen in order to bring the radio back to life.

That doesn't matter. as long as you have 2-inches or so of metal on all sides around the bottom, and no metal is blocking the signal (ie; like if was mounted in the bed of a truck), you're fine.

From Bioenno Long story, you can but you probably shouldn't.

Get an antenna analyzer and check and see what the center resonance is then check the VSWRs with the radio in-line with the antenna transmission system. Check your station output power with a Load Terminator that measures at 50 ohms. Also, make sure that repeater you're trying to access is either a wideband operation or a narrowband operation and set your station accordingly.

WRUE951, thanks I ran it in admin mode and voila it worked. All installed and running like a champ. Something so easy to overlook, and it just takes a comment or a suggestion from somebody else to try, and the rest is history.

Ask away! Most of the knowledgeable people here are extremely helpful. There's no place on the internet which doesn't have some jerks, but there are fewer here than in most places.

CHIRP's idea of zones is very different from zoned Baofeng (and similar) brands. I think it may be based on some high-end radio. Anyway, to CHIRP, zones are a table where you can use a checkbox to put a channel into one (or more, or zero) zones. On the Baofeng radios, zone names are basically text strings that live in the settings menu and channels go into zones based on channel number as someone described above. Regarding your issues with the BTECH CPS, I'd be very interested in hearing about them, since I wrote that software. Assuming you are using CPS version 1.2.5l, can you give me more details (via DM if you like). In particular, were the unexpected channels created on the radio after a write, or did the duplicates appear in the programming software? If you have a .dat file that causes the problem, I'd like to see it. You can either DM me here or email BTECH support (not putting the email address here to foil spam crawlers) and just put "Terri asked me to have you forward this to her" near the top of your email if you don't want to reach out to me directly (just because I say I wrote it is no proof that I did, although the "About" box will provide a hint). Before we get that far, can you load your .dat file and just click "[Next]" at the bottom of the channel window to go through all 10 zones? You might get a message about corrupted data when moving to a new zone. The CPS assumes that if it's in a .dat file it can load, it's valid. But paging through each zone does additional checks to make sure all the settings are valid.

I'm using a 40 watt radio with 50 ft of RG 213. Moving my antenna high enough to get a clear line of sight made all the difference. Turns out, I was misreading the line of sight graph. Now, I can carry on clear conversations with all the repeaters within my local area.

I wouldn’t, but it’s up to you.

The problem was the antenna height. My SWR is really good and I'm using 50 ft of RG213. I moved the antenna up from around 9 feet to around 15 feet. Now, I'm reliably getting through the repeater around 30 miles away. There's a little static, but just enough to remind me that I'm on a radio.

As long as the center pin on the pl-259 is big enough to accept the center stranded conductor of the cable without a bird’s nest that shorts against the shield, you’ll be fine. You might want to tin the center conductor tip so it slides through the hollow center pin without any strands bunching up.

That's innovative. I went a different way with the tuning, though and got my right around 1.05. Today, I raised my antenna by about six feet, which greatly improved the situation. Turns out, the line of sight tool shows a green line of sight even if there's some topography in the way. The extra six feet cleared things up. Sometime over the next few weeks, I'm going to move it up another 10 or 15 feet. -Steve

A lot will depend on the gain of the antenna. According to the https://kv5r.com/ham-radio/coax-loss-calculator/; you will get an ERP of 1.9 watts when using a radio with 5 watts output, 100 ft of RG-213, and an antenna with 1 dBd of gain. As you can see the calculated ERP is 1.9 watts Now the ERP will go up as the antenna gain goes up. So if the antenna gain is 2 dBd then the ERP will be 2.4 watts. And if you jump up to a gain of 5 dBd then the ERP will be 4.7 watts One thing to keep in mind is that most antenna manufacturers list the gain in dBi while most loss calculators use dBd. Subtract 2.14 from the dBi value to get the dBd value. The kv5r coax loss calculator is not exact but it is close enough to see what the loss difference is between different types of coax and at different lengths.

So maybe our used UV-5Rs will be worth more. Maybe we can use a UV-5R or TD-H3 etc. as a basic unit of trade.

The site went through a stretch where repeaters were inadvertently being duplicated when people clicked on them and chose “My Repeater”. I suspect that is responsible for at least some of the duplication.

It's working now (state +freq, and state+type).

Try higher and better antenna. Go to doughnut shop, get maple bars. Works for me but I’m only five miles from repeater and the doughnut shop is even closer. Pro tip make sure to get what kind the spouse likes if you have one. I may be distracted this morning. Sorry. Doughnuts…

I also was going to ask if you did a factory reset, that and have you tried swapping the antenna back?

Ok, my not mean anything but I have seen some people who are trying to figure out what has cause some TD-H3s to fail and one theory is that when the battery is fully charged it might start outputting high voltage before the charger cable is unplugged. They are thinking that surge might be affecting the radio if it is attached at the time.

The bigger question is “why do you care?” Did someone prevent you from putting up a repeater of your own? With multiple channels and tones available, one can certainly own and operate a repeater if they desire. I can see the Bernie bumper sticker on your Prius from way over here…..

-Move the antenna higher - Use a better antenna - More power - Accept the fact that you get what you get and be happy with that

Contact their support and see what they say - if they give you the run-around, or dont help, just send it back and tell them to send you one that works or give you back your money. Amazon makes this VERY easy to do.

It doesn't mean it's real or correct.

There really isn’t, but there are enough new people here and hopefully kindly experienced people that you shouldn’t feel uncomfortable asking questions. Yeah, there are always some people who attempt to display how knowledgeable they are simply by emphasizing others’ lack of knowledge. Please don’t let them win. Ask whatever you want.

So, are you experiencing this issue with zero output when you’re trying to transmit on 325 MHz? What about when you try to transmit on other frequencies: 2 meter, 70 cm, or GMRS frequencies?

Got an email there is a new TidRadio H3 Plus coming out next week. Its going to have over the old H3: -Odmaster app communication - Wireless Repeater signal relay - Bluetooth PTT - Screen refresh/update. Pricing looks the same and may be a bit bigger. https://tidradio.com/products/h3-plus-5w-bluetooth-radio?srsltid=AfmBOop7EgZljqaSGOCBI0lBh-vWv7PV47nWNNHr5GuX6FujMXDOKKoq

That is the important part. I changed the Tx power calibrations on my radio by accident using the factory debug software (sorry, I can't share, please don't ask). A Surecom SW-102 hooked directly up to the radio didn't register any power or even the frequency I was "transmitting" on. However, another radio next to it could hear it and we could carry on a conversation in the same room, but not at any greater distance. If the OP can talk to the other radio at 1/4 mile in simplex, then I'd look to see that the Tx / Rx (if used) tones for accessing the repeater didn't get clobbered somehow.

Some may be operated by clubs. Since you can't get a (new) GMRS license other than as an individual, somebody has to be the "responsible party" for each repeater. If a club has several and has someone with the expertise to maintain them, centrally manage access control, etc. they'll show up as the "owner" of multiple repeaters. In my case, here in JC we (supposedly) had a community service one on 700, but the user's FCC license expired 5+ years ago, they haven't been active here for 7+ years, and standing outside the building where the repeater supposedly, is there's nothing that responds. Hopefully that owner just lost interest in radio and/or moved away. Given some of our ages (I'm 66+ and realized that Val Kilmer was younger than me), the former repeater owner might be deceased. Hopefully not. Anyway, since I've had my GMRS license for 6+ years, I've benefited from using other repeaters while traveling, I'm on top of a ridge and have a 3-story house, and a 50W repeater "fell into my lap" (ouch!), I decided to start The New JC 700 as a community service as the only repeaters (other than the defunct 700) here are either open only to emergency responders, require membership in a club whos home page serves up malware and their repeater time announcement is off by 58 minutes (DST + clock drift) so "nobody's minding the store". Right now I'm running on a NMO-HDG at a lower elevation until my DB408-B, 7/8" heliax and climber/installer arrive. I have 8 ground rods, 150' of #4 copper and a ground rod driver and just need to create the ground field. Even with the free repeater, I'll probably be $4000-ish out-of-pocket. But since anyone with a 5W "repeater in a box" can validly register a repeater, some of the ones you see may be low-power. And some here are defunct - I messaged the management about the old 700 here, pointing out that their license was expired and they hadn't been here in 7+ years, and it was removed some time later.

When all else fails, read the instructions rather than relying on online comments. Here's the data sheet from Times Microwave: https://static.dxengineering.com/global/images/chartsguides/t/tmv-lmr-400.pdf?_gl=1*1hg8kam*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE3NDM3Mjc4MzYuQ2p3S0NBanc0N2lfQmhCVEVpd0FhSmZQcG9uNzhndGVzUVhZb0V3OE10XzRiYm5nUzZrMENsT0c1cnFaeDRZNllDaEFzTzI5RnpUVlJ4b0NjYkFRQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_au*MTIxOTYzODQxNS4xNzQwNTkxMzk4*_ga*MTMxOTg2NjcwNi4xNzAxNzEzMzMy*_ga_NZB590FMHY*MTc0MzcyNzgyNC42LjEuMTc0MzcyNzgzNi40OC4wLjA. While they do list TC connectors, they also list EZ connectors (third page of the extract) including the EZ-400-UM (https://timesmicrowave.com/connectors/ez-400-um-coax-connectors/). Finally, here is information on the difference between TC and EZ. They do indicate TC for stranded center conductors. I’m sure that’s because forcing a stranded center conductor through the spring fingers probably causes a bird’s nest. Any soldered center conductor should be fine. Personally, I would use the crimp shield and soldered center conductor tip. https://timesmicrowave.com/ez-vs-tc-connectors-whats-the-difference/

If you're going to stay with Midland, I would recommend with the MXT500 for the 99 channel capacity. Another option would be used Kenwoods or Motorola radios like the Kenwood TK-880 or TK-8180. The TK-880 is a 250 channel radio and the TK-8180 is a 520 channel radio. For Motorola either the XTL2500 or XTL5000. The XTL2500 would be either the 520 or 840 channel radio, depending on the flashing, and the XTL5000 is a 1000 channel radio.

I can think of one advantage of answering your phone home with your mic. Here using a handheld phone while driving illegally (never enforced but still technically against the law) but using a hand handheld microphone isn't.

The Texas GMRS Network has quite a few repeaters listed in the Houston area. Do a search for them. You have to be a member to use their repeaters. I have family in Beaumont and joined their group to access a Repeater in that area. Edit: You must have a GMRS license to use their repeaters.

I'm not sure "investment" is the word I'd use

4 isn't really that many if you have difficult terrain to overcome. Yes, it's an investment, but if it's useful to you, who cares. Now, having 4 tower leases, or even have someone willing to lease you tower space, that's the impressive part, considering crown castle won't even return a phone call.

Maybe you didn’t read the entire Wikipedia article because it says this: Established in 1970 in Osaka, Japan, it also has offices in Tokyo, Takatsuki, manufacturing facilities in Toyama and Hyōgo in Japan, and one in Suzhou, China.

Take what's reported as repeaters with a grain of salt. One of the multi repeater sites you have on your list in my area is just plain fantasy. Your listing shows 9 repeaters for the call when there is actually only one low power network (maybe why it shows so many repeaters) hotspot that he runs on rare occasion. There is on the other hand another guy that your list shows has 4 but has 6 repeaters. All of them are stand alone (not linked), on different frequencies (but same tones) and cover most of the west coast of Florida from Bradenton to Naples (around 120 miles spaced around 20-25 miles apart) and a few of them are quite strong. It's kinda nice to be able to drive the I-75 route south of Tampa and have reliable repeaters along the way. At least that's what I know of in my area, others I'm sure are different.

Totally agree and the answer is NO they don’t neeeed that many repeaters. It’s turning into a macho thing. “I have more and bigger repeaters then ….” It’s causing many problems and upsetting other repeater owners. Some court cases have even come up about it. It’s getting crazy for something that should be used for family and friends while doing an activity.

Thanks all. I'll play with it. Like I say, not a huge deal but was wondering. Makes sense I guess. I found something wonky with the native programming software today where it would write to the radio and some of the settings would be written with info from other cells. For instance, even though everything was right before writing, after the write I found the same channel names would be written to more than one channel or values were being inserted into cells after the write that weren't there before the write.

As a newbie here but an old fart who dates back to dialup and bulletin boards I can tell you anytime you are a newbie you need two assets. One, thick skin. There are always "individuals" who get off proving they are superior by belittling others. And two, a well developed BS meter that allows you to learn which sources provide good info and which supply BS by the truck load. I've found that the need to prove superiority and dispense BS tend to go hand in hand. Are there such "individuals" here. Of course, they tend to want folks to think a forum is their domain. They tend to repeat their "party line" over and over and over again. But once spotted simply ignore them and it will be a great resource. One way to separate the wheat from the chaff is to start a topic and ask a question. The mentoring type will answer with good info. The self appointed experts usually start with derision.

I've had mine for a few weeks. I don't have the standard H3 so I cannot make comparisons. Understand that the H3 Plus is a beta radio that has had 4 firmware updates since I've gotten mine. It still has a few issues but those primarily are on the ham side of things and shouldn't be an issue for GMRS. Pros: it is small and light. Charges pretty quick. Battery life seems decent considering the size. Speaker is loud enough to be heard with the windows down while driving 60, though if you have loud exhaust, maybe not. Receive quality is good. Signal reports have been decent. Cons: The bluetooth PTT only works with the ODMaster app. If you want to use bluetooth with a speaker mic, you are still going to have to use a dongle. I suspect this is because any BT device you pair to it, it sets the radio as "Emitter" and if you change that to "Receiver" it drops the connection. Maybe a later FW release will fix this but currently, no joy. If you want to program with software you are stuck with either the ODMaster app, website, or a really clunky CPS. The rest of the cons are on the ham side.

"He said Hymen..." -Butthead

its fun and entertaining at first, then it just gets old.. I've found it more productive to add him to my block list.

Don't poke the troll, best to ignore him.

We got a QSO!

Exactly. Since GMRS was always intended to be a Short range or Local radio service to begin with. Everyone's ambitions about trying to make Gmrs a nationwide thing would be better served if they just studied up and got their amateur radio license instead, then they would have Several avenues available to them to accomplish Nationwide comms.

I don't know to what extent any agency monitors radio traffic, but I know with absolute certainty that the US government has the capability to hear and talk to basically anything that puts out a signal. Many years ago, I was in an "off the road" village in central Alaska when an earthquake took out the phones for an area about the size of Colorado. There were quite a few isolated villages in that area. Within a few hours, there were aircraft in the air (E-3 AWACS would be my guess since they're stationed in Alaska) which could talk to literally anyone with a radio -- CB, marine, GMRS, Ham, you name it and they could talk to it. It was critical in knowing which villages had casualties, etc. You feel a lot less lonely just knowing you can get a message out. Satellite phones didn't exist yet. I suppose it would be different now. I once asked an AWAC crew member about their comms and he said, "If we want to, we can pick up the infrasound elephants communicate with."

I think the real question is do you NEED a repeater. If your asking this question you may not have a clue what a repeater does or if you actually need one.

The GP-9NC (GMRS/MURS) is rated 153-157MHz and 460-470MHz. The straight GP-9 and GP-9N (ham version) is rated 144-148 and 440-450MHz.