WRAK968

Well, I know the rim-lite/rim-lite RM is designed for 1225 series radios as that is what I use on both the RKR1225 and GR1225. It simply plugs into the 16 pin accessory port on the radio. (You will need to open the case to access the unit inside. The 16 pin port is near the TX antenna out port.) I recommend running the USB cable out from the case so you can have better access to the pi setup, it also helps keep the pi cool this way.

For the 7000, there is an accessory port on the back that you would hook up to, however I don't have any experience with this repeater and wouldn't be able to get into the technical discussions of its connections. Luckily, we have places like Repeater Builder which give us access to information like this: http://www.repeater-builder.com/yvs/vxr-7000-cat300dx.html and this: http://www.repeater-builder.com/cat-auto/cat-notes/note_11.pdf which may help

another way to check is to use a scanner, or another radio (Even a bubble pack radio could work) and listen on the RX side to see if your voice is re-transmitted.

There are things called access codes for most repeaters. you will need the input and output code (usually CTCSS or DCS) These need to be entered into the radio as well in order to activate the repeater and talk into it.

Good explanation Corey. Its also important to note that even repeaters have some form of duty cycle and that the duty cycle can change depending on output power. A great example is the motorola 1225 series repeater. At full power, 45 watts, the repeater is limited to a 50% duty cycle. In low power, 25 watts, they are 100% cycle.

Luckily, good repeaters have protection in the form of a Time Out Timer (TOT) and usually a ReSet Timer (RST) When set up correctly, the TOT should cut off the TX BEFORE the duty cycle is reached, and the RST should prevent transmissions until the appropriate rest period has passed. This helps extend the life of the repeater even when your not there to monitor it.

Almost ALL radios now-a-days have a TOT as well. Typically I set mine for 2 minutes which is more than I need to transmit for, but is less than the duty cycle permits thus protecting the transistors.  I've had people tell me its dumb to do as no idiot would want to talk non-stop unless they are in a net or special operation. That's when I give them this story:
 
A while back when I was on the first aid squad, I was getting ready to go to sleep. Turned out the lights, laid my head on the pillow, then came the sound of a soft moan from a woman. Now, this would have been great, if there had been a woman in bed with me. The moaning continued and a bit confused I began looking for the source. Didn't take long to find my squad radio was receiving, and after turning it up a little, yep you guessed it. Turns out, the LT's portable radio had fallen between the bed and the night stand and as they and their lover were going at it, it was all transmitted quite clearly to the repeater, then retransmitted for the ENTIRE COUNTY to listen to. To make matters worse, the radios all had ID numbers so we knew whos radio was transmitting, and even worse, the LT had shut their phone off, so calling them to tell them their private session was public was not doable. Finally, the radios did not have TOT's at the time and so for a good while (I just shut my radio off but a friend at the county said they heard every minute of the 15+ minute incident. When the portable finally cut out, either from overheating or a dead battery or from falling loose of the PTT button, there wee quite a few catcalls to let them know everything was public including a few repeats of nick-names used during the session.

So folks, learn two things from this story. A: TOT's work, especially when a mistake is made or you don't realize the transmit button is pushed, it will work and save your radio from damage and possibly you from some embarrassment. B: Someone is always listening, so keep in mind what you say or do on the radio, especially if you work for a public safety organization because if you say the wrong things you could find yourself in quite a bit of trouble.

MyGMRS requires a username and password to log in to see repeater information. To obtain a username and password you must submit your callsign and fill out the registration page. Your callsign will be confirmed through the FCC database (this may take a few days if you just received your callsign) and your account will become active.
 
This process was done to reduce the number of unlicensed operators as well as malicious operations upon repeaters that were listed. Note that your MyGMRS account is not the same as the MyGMRS forums (To my knowledge) so you will need to register on both sides to use both the forums and the main site.

To my understanding, GMRS users are required to identify, but repeaters are not. I do use a CW call-sign on my repeater just in case something goes wrong or there's interference someone can identify it and contact me, but it is not required.

If you are using this in repeater mode you need a tuned duplexer for the repeater pair you are using. DO NOT TRUST CHINA'S DUPLEXERS as they seem to fail time and time again, not to mention they are never tuned properly from the factory. I would say this is likely where your issue lies.

"The FCC when they approve a cell tower and a cell provider a license, require them to install and maintain a GMRS repeater." Would never every happen. I remember a group of hams who said the same thing about ham radio repeaters to help with RACES/ARES/Skywarn. If cell companies and the FCC weren't willing to work with emergency communications groups (Who by the way, often help those company's by setting up portable cell repeaters) they sure as heck wouldn't want to pay for and maintain GMRS repeaters that could be used by anyone, anywhere, anytime, while being liable for any issues that could come from such operations. The only way they would allow it would be if it was a pay-to-use system which is not allowed by FCC rules.

To my understanding, GMRS users are required to identify, but repeaters are not. I do use a CW call-sign on my repeater just in case something goes wrong or there's interference someone can identify it and contact me, but it is not required.

Good explanation Corey. Its also important to note that even repeaters have some form of duty cycle and that the duty cycle can change depending on output power. A great example is the motorola 1225 series repeater. At full power, 45 watts, the repeater is limited to a 50% duty cycle. In low power, 25 watts, they are 100% cycle.

Luckily, good repeaters have protection in the form of a Time Out Timer (TOT) and usually a ReSet Timer (RST) When set up correctly, the TOT should cut off the TX BEFORE the duty cycle is reached, and the RST should prevent transmissions until the appropriate rest period has passed. This helps extend the life of the repeater even when your not there to monitor it.

Almost ALL radios now-a-days have a TOT as well. Typically I set mine for 2 minutes which is more than I need to transmit for, but is less than the duty cycle permits thus protecting the transistors.  I've had people tell me its dumb to do as no idiot would want to talk non-stop unless they are in a net or special operation. That's when I give them this story:
 
A while back when I was on the first aid squad, I was getting ready to go to sleep. Turned out the lights, laid my head on the pillow, then came the sound of a soft moan from a woman. Now, this would have been great, if there had been a woman in bed with me. The moaning continued and a bit confused I began looking for the source. Didn't take long to find my squad radio was receiving, and after turning it up a little, yep you guessed it. Turns out, the LT's portable radio had fallen between the bed and the night stand and as they and their lover were going at it, it was all transmitted quite clearly to the repeater, then retransmitted for the ENTIRE COUNTY to listen to. To make matters worse, the radios all had ID numbers so we knew whos radio was transmitting, and even worse, the LT had shut their phone off, so calling them to tell them their private session was public was not doable. Finally, the radios did not have TOT's at the time and so for a good while (I just shut my radio off but a friend at the county said they heard every minute of the 15+ minute incident. When the portable finally cut out, either from overheating or a dead battery or from falling loose of the PTT button, there wee quite a few catcalls to let them know everything was public including a few repeats of nick-names used during the session.

So folks, learn two things from this story. A: TOT's work, especially when a mistake is made or you don't realize the transmit button is pushed, it will work and save your radio from damage and possibly you from some embarrassment. B: Someone is always listening, so keep in mind what you say or do on the radio, especially if you work for a public safety organization because if you say the wrong things you could find yourself in quite a bit of trouble.

*1xxxxx = Disconnect
*2xxxxx = Monitor only (you can hear them, they cant hear you)
*3xxxxx = Connect
*70       = Status
*811xxxxx = Permanent Disconnect
*812xxxxx = Permanent Monitor
*813xxxxx = Permanent Connect
 
169 Midwest Region
172 Northeastern region
174 Southeastern Region
175 Southern Plains region
176 Southwestern region
177 Mountain region (West Coast)
 
Ensure you have a good internet connection (preferred wire-line internet over wifi. DO NOT USE BOTH, it confuses the program)

For more info on regional hubs, please visit https://mygmrs.com/nets
 
Any more questions, feel free to ask

First, I'm sorry if this comes off as cross, however the way you had typed and worded this message promotes the air of "I want it therefore it should be given to me" type of attitude, which to many repeater owners, translates to abuse of equipment they paid for and maintain. Everyone has a gripe, its discussion of the concern or issue in an adult manor that brings some form of resolution or at very least a little more respect for you as a person.
 
Now second, if you have read the FCC rules that you agreed to, you will find the following:
 
47 CFR 95.1705 (D) Individual Licensee Duties, The holder of an individual license:
(2) May allow any person to use (i.e., benefit from the operation of) its GMRS repeater, or alternatively, may limit the use of its GMRS repeater to specific persons;
(3) May disallow the use of its GMRS repeater by specific persons as may be necessary to carry out its responsibilities under this section.
 
Another words, as a repeater owner, I have the authority to refuse access to users who fail to follow FCC rules, or fail to follow rules I have set for the use of the repeater (Including collection of any club fees associated with maintaining said repeater/repeaters) or if you conduct yourself in a way that may be harmful or interfering of any communications through said repeater. I have banned people for prolonged "key up" times where they were intentionally jamming the repeater in hopes of damaging the unit. I also banned a user who tried to tell me I had to pay him for the use of the repeater I had bought and set up.
 
This means that when you contact the FCC, they will likely ignore you, or if you do get a response, it'll likely be "The system owner has legal authority to restrict the systems use to specific individuals."

Good explanation Corey. Its also important to note that even repeaters have some form of duty cycle and that the duty cycle can change depending on output power. A great example is the motorola 1225 series repeater. At full power, 45 watts, the repeater is limited to a 50% duty cycle. In low power, 25 watts, they are 100% cycle.

Luckily, good repeaters have protection in the form of a Time Out Timer (TOT) and usually a ReSet Timer (RST) When set up correctly, the TOT should cut off the TX BEFORE the duty cycle is reached, and the RST should prevent transmissions until the appropriate rest period has passed. This helps extend the life of the repeater even when your not there to monitor it.

Almost ALL radios now-a-days have a TOT as well. Typically I set mine for 2 minutes which is more than I need to transmit for, but is less than the duty cycle permits thus protecting the transistors.  I've had people tell me its dumb to do as no idiot would want to talk non-stop unless they are in a net or special operation. That's when I give them this story:
 
A while back when I was on the first aid squad, I was getting ready to go to sleep. Turned out the lights, laid my head on the pillow, then came the sound of a soft moan from a woman. Now, this would have been great, if there had been a woman in bed with me. The moaning continued and a bit confused I began looking for the source. Didn't take long to find my squad radio was receiving, and after turning it up a little, yep you guessed it. Turns out, the LT's portable radio had fallen between the bed and the night stand and as they and their lover were going at it, it was all transmitted quite clearly to the repeater, then retransmitted for the ENTIRE COUNTY to listen to. To make matters worse, the radios all had ID numbers so we knew whos radio was transmitting, and even worse, the LT had shut their phone off, so calling them to tell them their private session was public was not doable. Finally, the radios did not have TOT's at the time and so for a good while (I just shut my radio off but a friend at the county said they heard every minute of the 15+ minute incident. When the portable finally cut out, either from overheating or a dead battery or from falling loose of the PTT button, there wee quite a few catcalls to let them know everything was public including a few repeats of nick-names used during the session.

So folks, learn two things from this story. A: TOT's work, especially when a mistake is made or you don't realize the transmit button is pushed, it will work and save your radio from damage and possibly you from some embarrassment. B: Someone is always listening, so keep in mind what you say or do on the radio, especially if you work for a public safety organization because if you say the wrong things you could find yourself in quite a bit of trouble.

Good explanation Corey. Its also important to note that even repeaters have some form of duty cycle and that the duty cycle can change depending on output power. A great example is the motorola 1225 series repeater. At full power, 45 watts, the repeater is limited to a 50% duty cycle. In low power, 25 watts, they are 100% cycle.

Luckily, good repeaters have protection in the form of a Time Out Timer (TOT) and usually a ReSet Timer (RST) When set up correctly, the TOT should cut off the TX BEFORE the duty cycle is reached, and the RST should prevent transmissions until the appropriate rest period has passed. This helps extend the life of the repeater even when your not there to monitor it.

Almost ALL radios now-a-days have a TOT as well. Typically I set mine for 2 minutes which is more than I need to transmit for, but is less than the duty cycle permits thus protecting the transistors.  I've had people tell me its dumb to do as no idiot would want to talk non-stop unless they are in a net or special operation. That's when I give them this story:
 
A while back when I was on the first aid squad, I was getting ready to go to sleep. Turned out the lights, laid my head on the pillow, then came the sound of a soft moan from a woman. Now, this would have been great, if there had been a woman in bed with me. The moaning continued and a bit confused I began looking for the source. Didn't take long to find my squad radio was receiving, and after turning it up a little, yep you guessed it. Turns out, the LT's portable radio had fallen between the bed and the night stand and as they and their lover were going at it, it was all transmitted quite clearly to the repeater, then retransmitted for the ENTIRE COUNTY to listen to. To make matters worse, the radios all had ID numbers so we knew whos radio was transmitting, and even worse, the LT had shut their phone off, so calling them to tell them their private session was public was not doable. Finally, the radios did not have TOT's at the time and so for a good while (I just shut my radio off but a friend at the county said they heard every minute of the 15+ minute incident. When the portable finally cut out, either from overheating or a dead battery or from falling loose of the PTT button, there wee quite a few catcalls to let them know everything was public including a few repeats of nick-names used during the session.

So folks, learn two things from this story. A: TOT's work, especially when a mistake is made or you don't realize the transmit button is pushed, it will work and save your radio from damage and possibly you from some embarrassment. B: Someone is always listening, so keep in mind what you say or do on the radio, especially if you work for a public safety organization because if you say the wrong things you could find yourself in quite a bit of trouble.

Also, if I recall, this is printed on the bottom of your FCC license.

The rule states as follows "Licensees who operate North of Line A and East of Line C may not operate on channels 462.650 MHZ,467.650 MHZ, 462.700 MHZ and 467.700 MHZ unless your previous license authorized such operations."
 
Thus, Channels 19 and 21 are not permitted to be used north of Line A. All other channels are ok as long as you follow part 95 rules.
 

I use a surecom SW-102, nice little unit,

https://www.amazon.com/Mcbazel-Surecom-Digital-125-525Mhz-Antenna/dp/B01D86IKIQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2JRVRL343HI8D&dchild=1&keywords=surecom+sw-102&qid=1611170816&s=electronics&sprefix=surecom+%2Celectronics%2C360&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A263LSCPZJCHO0&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQWUVGVVpLTjBDMUkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2NjE4OTgxNzlPM0M5UEg1WE1QJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5Mzk4NjcyRk4wV1NUTjJNNVFEJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Ok, pulled two UHF ID's, Both have a GC of K44, The first is 431200 and the second is 431201. Both have certification for part 22, 74, and 90. While it is not part 95E certified, as long as you do not run digital or encryption and you keep the power levels within legal limits you should be fine to use this radio.

I thought you wanted the notch dead on for duplexer's to prevent desense? What causes the increased insertion loss?

Being new, I'll let ya know that this is how I started out as well, and... it didn't quiet end well. Motorola mobile radios are meant for a 20% duty cycle, another words, they shouldn't transmit for more than 2 minutes out of every 10 or damage will occur. When you do your set-up, I would put the TX radio on low power to protect the radio from burning up, even if you've added a fan, as it doesn't take too many long winded conversations through the repeater to cause irreversible damage. Likewise I would program in a 90 second time-out timer (TOT) on the repeater itself. I learned this the hard way as I fried a 1225 40W mobile by running longer than normal transmissions on high power, and by using an improperly tuned duplexer (Another thing, save yourself the headache and buy a BP/BR duplexer for the UHF band. They usually go for $300-500 used on ebay and in my experience work a lot better than the cheaper flat packs.)

If you have any more questions feel free to call on us, theres a great set of guys here with quite the database of information
 

Then there's the liability side of things. Every EAS activation over any form has to be documented, and in the event that an EAS alert is transmitted over a wide area (for instance, on linked repeaters using the national node) one could face very large penalties for creating a false public alarm. Likewise, If it is advertised that a repeater has EAS announcements, and the EAS fails to alert to an emergency you could equally be held liable.

Then there's the cost. You would need a special EAS decoder for your region of coverage, a printer for the EAS message data header (required for log book), and back-up power systems (2) to ensure the system is reliable in a worst case situation.

I found all this as I too planned to use EAS via radio so that I didn't have to buy dual band radio that would only TX on one band. The thinking was to give my family and I notice about bad weather while we were hiking or kayaking. After learning about all the equipment that is required, and the liability parts, I chose not to go that route and instead installed a weather app on my phone.

I'm guessing this is an unauthorized re-transmission of the sheriffs radio comms. I see they use 155mHz by you.
 
I would contact the sheriffs dept and just give them the heads up. Their radio unit will likely foxhunt the signal and begin the process of charging the individual. Notifying them ASAP also allows them to prevent transmitting personal info which may be heard via the unauthorized repeater.

Fair bit of questions here.
 
Tuning is done through the KPG software for the radio, HOWEVER, I would not attempt to retune a radio without the proper meters and equipment and a surecom 102 isn't the best to meter for perfection. One thing I do question is, have you tested the meter against a known source? I do use a surecom meter myself for quick checks, and I recall that I had to tune the meter before I could use it. It took a few trys however I did get it to be close enough for what I do. IF you choose to do this yourself with cheap equipment, I am not to be responsible for damage or rule violations.
 
You will need a length of coax about 1.5 times the frequency wavelength, (9 or 18 inches should work) the meter, a 50 ohm 100W dummy load able to support the frequency you are tuning for, radio, power supply, programming cable and computer with KPG49D software.

Set up the radio and power supply, connect the coax from the radios antenna port to the "Input" side of the meter, and connect the dummy load to the "Output" side. Connect the programming cable, and turn the radio and computer on.

Open the 49D software and do a read from the radio.

Click "Edit>Test frequency"
 
Enter in several frequency sets, You should have the lowest frequency you plan to transmit on, the highest frequency, and a frequency somewhere close to middle between your high and low frequencys.
 
Save the file, and write to the radio. Once written, click "Program>Test Mode"
 
Select the center frequency (likely to give you the best results for your usage "band")
 
Double click "RF High Power"
 
Take a note of the current value, Just in case you make a mistake, you're able to return to this number and start again.
 
Use the left and right arrow to adjust the value in the new window. Make small adjustments and click "TX" Get a reading and click "TX" again to stop transmitting. Keep making adjustments until you reach about 40W (This unit is rated at 40W output to my knowledge) You can run slightly low, however to protect the radio, I wouldn't tune above 40W.

Once complete click "OK" to exit to the test mode window.

Select the lower frequency and go back into RF High Power, DO NOT MAKE CHANGES, Simple click TX and take a reading, and do the same for the High frequency. Note, Both frequencies will be BELOW the 40W output. This is NORMAL as long as they aren't super low.
 
When complete, click "Close" in the test mode window, and your radio should reboot.
 
For low power, I don't believe that radio can go much further than 20W low power without causing damage to the radio, and for frequency alignment and getting into the 70CM band you would likely do better taking the radio to a shop and having a pro do it for $50. This will void the part 95 certification, however at least there is less risk of transmitting way off frequency by accident. I would also advise against any physical adjustments on the radios boards as a 1/4 turn on the wrong pot will fry your radio, your station, or worse, could cause a fire. Again, most shops can preform this service at a reasonable price for you.

Fair bit of questions here.
 
Tuning is done through the KPG software for the radio, HOWEVER, I would not attempt to retune a radio without the proper meters and equipment and a surecom 102 isn't the best to meter for perfection. One thing I do question is, have you tested the meter against a known source? I do use a surecom meter myself for quick checks, and I recall that I had to tune the meter before I could use it. It took a few trys however I did get it to be close enough for what I do. IF you choose to do this yourself with cheap equipment, I am not to be responsible for damage or rule violations.
 
You will need a length of coax about 1.5 times the frequency wavelength, (9 or 18 inches should work) the meter, a 50 ohm 100W dummy load able to support the frequency you are tuning for, radio, power supply, programming cable and computer with KPG49D software.

Set up the radio and power supply, connect the coax from the radios antenna port to the "Input" side of the meter, and connect the dummy load to the "Output" side. Connect the programming cable, and turn the radio and computer on.

Open the 49D software and do a read from the radio.

Click "Edit>Test frequency"
 
Enter in several frequency sets, You should have the lowest frequency you plan to transmit on, the highest frequency, and a frequency somewhere close to middle between your high and low frequencys.
 
Save the file, and write to the radio. Once written, click "Program>Test Mode"
 
Select the center frequency (likely to give you the best results for your usage "band")
 
Double click "RF High Power"
 
Take a note of the current value, Just in case you make a mistake, you're able to return to this number and start again.
 
Use the left and right arrow to adjust the value in the new window. Make small adjustments and click "TX" Get a reading and click "TX" again to stop transmitting. Keep making adjustments until you reach about 40W (This unit is rated at 40W output to my knowledge) You can run slightly low, however to protect the radio, I wouldn't tune above 40W.

Once complete click "OK" to exit to the test mode window.

Select the lower frequency and go back into RF High Power, DO NOT MAKE CHANGES, Simple click TX and take a reading, and do the same for the High frequency. Note, Both frequencies will be BELOW the 40W output. This is NORMAL as long as they aren't super low.
 
When complete, click "Close" in the test mode window, and your radio should reboot.
 
For low power, I don't believe that radio can go much further than 20W low power without causing damage to the radio, and for frequency alignment and getting into the 70CM band you would likely do better taking the radio to a shop and having a pro do it for $50. This will void the part 95 certification, however at least there is less risk of transmitting way off frequency by accident. I would also advise against any physical adjustments on the radios boards as a 1/4 turn on the wrong pot will fry your radio, your station, or worse, could cause a fire. Again, most shops can preform this service at a reasonable price for you.

I owner two mixed code repeaters. There were two reasons for doing this. A ) Security. For a bit I had an unknown user keying the repeater for minutes at a time. After asking the user not to do this they chose to key the repeater for nearly 30 minutes. Of course the repeaters TOT tripped after 2 minutes, however the user continued to key either until they were bored, or until their radio finally killed itself, nearly 30 minutes and long enough for me to figure out where they were. So I changed only the input tone so the user couldn't trip the repeater (or its twin) again. B ) We kept the original output tone to make it seem like we never changed tones at all. Trying to "scan" the repeaters output would only give the 223 code for output. I figured this would frustrate anyone who is trying to get access without checking with me first.