WRAK968

Have you checked the SWR past the duplexer (checking the feedline and antenna?) Also check your jumpers, its possible you accidentally hooked swapped them and is often the problem.

RG8x isn't very good for short repeater runs let alone the length you are running, While I doubt thats causing your swr issue, it will greatly reduce the range of the repeater, especially at longer lengths. Personally I used LMR400 then upgraded to 600 which in my opinion is fine for running 30-40 feet up, though there are guys here who will demand 1/2" or 3/4" helix which for the type of install and the cost, I just dont feel its worth it.

If the SWR is good past the duplexer, then it would be reasonable to believe the duplexer is bad. Most flatpacks that I have seen are only rated to 45W for UHF band, and work best at wattages below 25W. `If you are putting 52W in you may have caused some damage to the internals, and could have damaged the repeater itself. So, I would try running low power, around 20W or so, and see if that gives you better SWR readings.

Last, I would recommend changing out the flatpack for a band pass/reject style duplexer. The difference will shock you for two reasons. #1, the Chinese flatpacks arn't made with the best quality and often have issues with them and are never tuned correctly. and 2) BP/BR duplexers seem to just work better than the flatpacks do.

It takes time to learn the more advance radio tasks. LMR's make the task of programing and using the radios a little easier, however are still a little confusing the first few times you write a new code plug. Give it some time and you'll find it easier to do the things you want to do.

It takes time to learn the more advance radio tasks. LMR's make the task of programing and using the radios a little easier, however are still a little confusing the first few times you write a new code plug. Give it some time and you'll find it easier to do the things you want to do.

If you are confident in terminating the cable then cutting off excessive length could help you. You should terminate at roughly 1/2 or one full wavelength. If you only have 1-2 feet extra I wouldnt worry about it though

Would Plano Tx be close enough?

I think this video sums it up right here,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sq3zEpYgCYo
 
This leads me to wonder though, Why do so many UHF radios come with SO-239 sockets for antenna use rather than BNC or N connectors? It even seems that newer UHF radios still use the SO-239.

Another question I have is weather or not someone should consider having the SO-239 changed out for the N type connectors? Would there be some form of improvement or has some form of compensation been made on the PC board in those radios?

I think this video sums it up right here,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sq3zEpYgCYo
 
This leads me to wonder though, Why do so many UHF radios come with SO-239 sockets for antenna use rather than BNC or N connectors? It even seems that newer UHF radios still use the SO-239.

Another question I have is weather or not someone should consider having the SO-239 changed out for the N type connectors? Would there be some form of improvement or has some form of compensation been made on the PC board in those radios?

There are things called access codes for most repeaters. you will need the input and output code (usually CTCSS or DCS) These need to be entered into the radio as well in order to activate the repeater and talk into it.

There are things called access codes for most repeaters. you will need the input and output code (usually CTCSS or DCS) These need to be entered into the radio as well in order to activate the repeater and talk into it.

There are things called access codes for most repeaters. you will need the input and output code (usually CTCSS or DCS) These need to be entered into the radio as well in order to activate the repeater and talk into it.

"So if I got this right, if the number after output is say 462. that is the frequency my radio should be tuned to? I'm sorry I'm so dense. Science is my weakness."
 
Yes and No, Yes, you should be tuned to the 462 frequency. Your radio should also be set with a +5.00 offset. This allows your radio to transmit on the 467 frequency. Thus, technically, you should be tuned to both frequencies at the same time.

Glad you figured it out, I was about to mention the off hook decode/scan. Basically with off hook decode is disabled, if the mic is in the hanger it'll require the correct DCS code to break the squelch however with it off the hanger it'll open up for everything. This is meant for companies running 2 or 3 user groups on the same frequency so you know the channel is clear before you transmit. I don't know of too many other applications its used for.

I believe the KTC 19 was designed for external I/O triggers (Horn alert and computer hookup for text and data traffic)

However, I have just built a portable repeater using 2 TK880's so its an easy question to answer. I used a surecom 629 repeater controller which is lightweight and designed for portable repeater use. It even has an internal battery to power itself with if you don't have a way to power it directly. The real selling point for the surecom was that they make a plug and play kit for the 880 series radios. the RX end plugs into the speaker port, the TX plugs into the mic port of the TX radio. The entire set-up including a USB charger for the surecom and duplexer all fit into a box the size of an ammo can.
 
Equipment used:
2 TK880 radios (one RX, one TX and note the TX radio should be run at low power to increase the PA's life during continuous operations)
1 surecom 629 repeater controller
2 surecom 48-k1 cables (one for RX one for TX)
1 Celwave UHF duplexer (flat pack)
1 GDS tech USB charger 3A (For keeping the surecom powered during long term operations)
1 6 post fuse block from Autozone
1 Zjelen XHP20 2 pole power connector (to pass power into the box while keeping it waterproof)
various jumpers and wires for running power and connecting the duplexer.
1 waterproof box from walmart about the size of an ammo can
 
wireing up the unit is straight forward. I used the fuse block to supply +12V to each radio (each radio has its own fuse) and one post to power the USB charger. I mounted the celwave duplexer first, then using dual lock velcro (the heavy duty stuff) mounted each radio, then the surecom controller.
 
The cellwave used BNC inputs so I snipped off the SO259 ends from the TK880's and soldered on BNC males so the radios plug directly into the duplexer, less connectors and wire = less loss. I then ran a short length of low loss jumper wire to add in a bulkhead "N connector for the antenna. This allows me to operate the repeater with the box closed, thus keeping the unit waterproof. I just ran all the connections, did a little cable management, and I was set. I get about 9.5W out on low power, and about 23.8W out on high power (high power can be used but should be intermittent to prevent PA failure or overheat, remember these radios have a 20-80 duty cycle, thats 20% or 12 minutes TX and 80% or 48 minutes resting per hour on high.)

Outside of the build, you will need an antenna, coax, and a good deep cycle battery. I tried an 18Ah battery I use as a backup but I found I only got about 14 hours use if that. So I upgraded to a trolling motor battery which I think was 150Ah, I plan to test that out this week. NEVER USE YOUR CARS MAIN STARTING BATTERY!!! It'll drain it quick and you'll be stuck with a dead car.

I know its a lot of info but I hope this all helps.

**edit** For some reason MyGMRS says I do not have permission to post pictures here, not sure why. If you would like to see what the finished product looks like feel free to message me and Ill see if I can send em that way!

neither option is a good choice.

I started out with a cheap e-bay duplexer (Around $125 if I recall) and it never worked. I was lucky to get two blocks range. Turns out the TX side wasn't being blocked by the duplexer, and instead, the RX side was loaded with desense, causing the repeater to not "See" the incoming traffic.

You'r better off researching Band Pass / Band Reject (BP/BR) duplexers and purchasing one when it becomes available within your price range. I spent about $300 for mine and it drastically improved the range of the repeater. Now my only obstacle is height!
 
You can run two antennas however you will need enough vertical separation, about 30-40 feet worth, to avoid desense and damage to the RX radio.

I think (dont hold me to it) there is a premade double dinn mount for the 8180. I would have to look into it but I believe its made by havis.

I believe hes mentioning CTCSS and DCS codes, which have been gone over extensively in the forums.  R-tone and T-tone. Not exactly sure how they'll be labeled but I do recall it saying R and T before the setting for Receive and Transmit

Ok, in the screens you showed me with port forwarding, make sure the port forward circle is selected then click "Add Custom Service"

This will give you a new screen.
Fill in the following info:

Service name: GMRS Link
Service type: UDP
External Starting Port: 4569
External Ending Port: 4569
Check "Use same port range for internal port"
Internal starting port (Leave Blank)
Internal ending port (leave blank)
Internal IP address (Enter the IP address of the raspberry pi)
Click on "Apply"

This should add the UDP port for the pi.

As for rebooting the Pi, there are two ways. The first is to log into the pi (whatever username/password you set, if you did not set a password, it is likely repeater, 123456) then type Sudo Reboot. It should reboot the pi. The second is to just unplug the pi, not the best way, however if you do not have a screen and keyboard set up for the pi, this is usually the easiest way.
 

I think that would be a great idea. I also believe that with MyGMRS selling node controllers that perhaps there could be a tutorial on the main site explaining some of the set-up steps and reminders of some of the codes and files that can be customized. I was thinking about contacting Rich and seeing if we could get that all going.

I try to be honest with people. This gentleman has come to us saying he has no radio background and so I gave him an honest answer that would work for his business, as well as some of the pros and cons of using GMRS for business operations. If you read my comment over you will see that I say "If your ok with some interference, GMRS could work,...GMRS would allow family to talk through a repeater" I'm sorry if it frustrates people (Including you) to tell them the truth of things which could save them a headache in the long run.

I try to be honest with people. This gentleman has come to us saying he has no radio background and so I gave him an honest answer that would work for his business, as well as some of the pros and cons of using GMRS for business operations. If you read my comment over you will see that I say "If your ok with some interference, GMRS could work,...GMRS would allow family to talk through a repeater" I'm sorry if it frustrates people (Including you) to tell them the truth of things which could save them a headache in the long run.

Zones are for, as you have done, sorting channels into groups. I have set Zone 1 as local repeaters, Zone 2 as all repeater channels, Zone 3 for conventional GMRS channels and Zone 4 I added local FD/EMS.

as for ID number, many kenwood radios have two ID modes. Fleetsync and MDC1200. If configured the ID number will be send on each transmit, and if you configure your radio correctly, it will display a name when the code is received. These modes will also allow you to page particular users, and even send messages.

What exactly is the problem with your 890? The 890 should use KPG-44D software, and the KPG-43U cable if I recall. Connect the cable to your PC, open up the 49D software, click "Setup>Com Port" this will open a little window. Select the comport the programming cable is using (Usually it will be the only com port available) and click OK.
 
Now, with the radio turned on and the cable connected to the radios mic port, do a read from the radio.

If you get an error, please share it here.

There is a reason for having you do these steps. First, some radio's require matching S/N's in the programing dat file. Having a mismatched file wont allow you to upload to the radio. Second, by uploading a random dat file you may not fix whatever issue you are having. And third, if your new to the software, this is a great chance to learn about the software and features that others may not include in the system.

*1xxxxx = Disconnect
*2xxxxx = Monitor only (you can hear them, they cant hear you)
*3xxxxx = Connect
*70       = Status
*811xxxxx = Permanent Disconnect
*812xxxxx = Permanent Monitor
*813xxxxx = Permanent Connect
 
169 Midwest Region
172 Northeastern region
174 Southeastern Region
175 Southern Plains region
176 Southwestern region
177 Mountain region (West Coast)
 
Ensure you have a good internet connection (preferred wire-line internet over wifi. DO NOT USE BOTH, it confuses the program)

For more info on regional hubs, please visit https://mygmrs.com/nets
 
Any more questions, feel free to ask

Try *3172

Overthere, I can't prove they were the ones doing it, just coincidence for the most part, though I would say I am 99% sure. Most times the FCC wont get involved anyways.