kipandlee

I can confirm   KPG-49D version 4.02 from  ham files works on windows 7 installed normal with no issues also just uninstalled and reinstalled with no issues

Since I couldn't get a direct answer, I downloaded and installed chirp. I am assuming you used Chirp's default FRS/GMRS lineup. If that is the case, you should have FRS 1-14, and GMRS 1-8 All channels are simplex. GMRS 1-8 are actually channels 15-22 on the bubble pack radios.  If both radios have the same FRS/GMRS chart installed then they should both work if they are on the same channel.

Now, you keep talking about GMRS channels 9 and 10 which is NOT in the factory chirp file which surely you now understand my confusion and why I asked about how you have programed the radio. GMRS 9 and 10 could be FRS 9 and 10, they could be repeater channels, they could be a goofed up channel you put in. Without seeing data and instead being given info on power output means I cant help you figure out where the mistake is. It could be a programming error, a bad code plug, could be one of the radios was defective, could be human error. Without the info I asked about I cant even begin to figure out what is going on.

No, you got the right idea. The problem is I do not run anything on Windows except in a VM to program radios as-needed.  Otherwise, I use MacOS and Linux.  BTW, The third package you noted is no longer being distributed.
 
However, I sort have made progress... I installed Svxlink on a r-Pi and can connect top it using EchoLink software on my phone and desktop. I don't have a sound-card yet (next week) so audio is one-way. But, it works. And, I know how to use the GPIO to trigger the PTT and get COS from the Audio-out of a radio. But, the whole thing comes to a crashing halt because EchoLink expressly prohibits anything but Ham uses.
 
I am looking at PulseAudio, some people have gotten that to work for APRS, and maybe I should look at Asterisk... though I am hoping someone knowledgable on Asterisk can confirm whether it could work.

not sure if this would work as you are intending  but i have tested it with minor issues that could be sorted out had kinda same idea but the project got set aside for now' echostation  http://www.synergenics.com/sc/ also some more interesting tools http://www.w1hkj.com/index.html and of course remote access could be done several ways I use  PhoneMyPC http://softwareforme.com/?page_id=6 forgive me if I missed your idea or intent 

My 90 feet of LMR400 arrived earlier today. My swr is about the same but my power output (40w capable) has jumped from 24 to almost 37 according to the meter.
 
I can now hit pretty much all the repeaters in the area and I now can cover the better part of 15 miles, terrain changes and elevation notwithstanding. This is great since not only can the Mrs. get ahold of me anywhere on the property but running into town is now covered as well!
 
Thanks everybody for all the suggestions and info!

Technically, the GMRS-V1 is not a Baofeng. Although manufactured by Baofeng, it has customized firmware and is sold under the BTECH brand name and it Is BTECH who have certified the radio with the FCC.  AFAIK, no Baofeng branded radios are GMRS certified.
 

The sole requirement for legal use on GMRS is FCC Part95-E Certification (Previously Part95-A). 
47 CFR § 95.1761 - GMRS transmitter certification.
(a) Each GMRS transmitter (a transmitter that operates or is intended to operate in the GMRS) must be certified in accordance with this subpart and part 2 of this chapter.
(b A grant of equipment certification for the GMRS will not be issued for any GMRS transmitter type that fails to comply with the applicable rules in this subpart.
[... ...]

as far as i know:  (others, feel free to correct me if/where i'm wrong)
 
it depends which handhelds you mean.  the GMRS-V1, yes, since it's certified for GMRS use.
 
most others (uv5r, bf-f8/f9-hp, uv82, etc), no, primarily due to lack of certification required for legal gmrs use.

In very broad terms, Radio receiver spec's are measured in 2 parameters. Sensitivity (the ability to hear a weak signal) and Selectivity (the ability to distinguish between wanted/unwanted signals). Those two parameters are both important, but usually work against each other. It's difficult to engineer a radio receiver that can pick out a weak signal - while also distinguishing between wanted & unwanted signals.
 
The reason to tell you all that - is that less expensive radios usually don't bother spending the time & money to engineer and build a really good receiving system - what we term a "front end" in the radio business. Most of the inexpensive radios people are buying for GMRS have a poorly designed front end  - one that is sensitive, but not very selective. I have a feeling that is why you're seeing (hearing) what you have experienced with your radios.
 
After all that's been said - move the two radios apart 100 feet or more, and your problem will most likely resolve itself.

No 69.3 Hz on Midlands... Hmm. That's good to know!   

"do i put the input freq in my radio as the TX or the RX?"
Input (467) side should be on your radios TX, and the output (462) side should be on the radios RX.


"Also what is the difference in the programing between D123I and D123N?"
DCS tones have both Normal and Inverted states, thus you have a D123N for normal and D123I for inverted.


Glad you got the programming issue fixed, what was wrong?
 

If you can afford it, use the LDF4-50A.  Perhaps even LDF5-50A if your run is longer than 100 feet.
 
At 460MHz at 100 feet, RG-8x has a loss of 9.4 dB. LMR 400 has a loss of 2.7 dB. LDF4 has a loss of 1.4 dB. LDF5 has a loss of 0.82 dB.
 
If you are using LDF Heliax, it is just fine to use a short jumper at the end for flexibility going into your radio.
 
Also, keep in mind your cost vs. return on investment ratio.  How far do you really need to talk?
 
Personally, I use LDF4-50A, but I'm only running about 80 feet.

Attenuation of LDF4-50a is about 1.4db at 467 MHz.  LMR-400 is about 2.7db.

just a note to the 400 cable vs LDF
these are completely different types of cable to deal w//
400 is a nice flexible fairly user friendly cable. LDF4 on the other hand for a novice is not going to end well. it is fairly rigid  bend it too much and its done, have seen that 100x over. putting on the connectors is pretty strait forward depending on what you buy. you will need to have some practice to get a feel for it.
wouldn't even bother w/LDF5  that is a 7/8 cable that requires specialized tool to put connectors on.
  as to your height, 2 story cape style house in the end should give you 30' of height to tip, roughly.
look at this as I have finally added new pics
 
https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/252-cable-types-and-losses/

If you want the better coax, hard-line, its going to cost you. The site below does sell 1/2" and 7/8" hard-line. It seems they are able to install the connectors too. I'm sure there are other places you can get the cable, likely at around the same cost.
 
http://www.davisrf.com/heliax.php

at 50' 400 would be good
    100' 1/2 super or hard line
in excess of 150' 7/8 
after that you get into the really big stuff 1-5/8, 2-1/4 and waveguide.

It seems a little quiet, so I figured I would share a walk-thru video of a portable field setup for my radio gear.  The video focuses on my Ham gear and two club events I am going to be involved in, but you can easily put something together like this for field use for any radio platform, including GMRS. 
 
In fact, the X200 antenna works great for GMRS frequencies.  I've posted the SWR readings from the analyzer in another thread, a month or so back.  On the low side it was 1.3:1 and the high side was 1.4:1.
 
Not a pro video by any means, but you should get the idea.
 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9TkDnRDn4U

I think you may be confusing a drip loop for a common-mode choke.
 
If you have a proper antenna, with a true unbalanced feed point, you do not need a choke at the antenna.  Those are only required if you have one of those cheap ham-type J-poles, or other balanced feed antenna.
 
If you do need a choke on your antenna, do NOT make it by coiling 1/2" line.  Leave the 1/2" straight up to the base of the antenna, and use a 3-foot jumper of RG-8x, RG-58u, or similar small coax to make your coil, which should be 4 or 5 turns about 6 inches in diameter.  You can also make a common mode choke by taking a foot-long jumper of RG-213 or LMR-400 and put ferrite clamp-on chokes all the way from one end to the other.  Again, on most decent commercial antennas, this is not needed.
 
A drip-loop is simply a low-point in the coax right before it comes into your building, so that rain running down the coax will drip off onto the ground, rather than get funneled into your house. This is not even needed in all installations, as sometimes the coax is not running down a tower, but rather across a roof, under a soffit, or into a conduit.
 
Short jumpers at each end aren't going to hurt you much. As Lscott posted, use type "N" connectors where-ever possible for lowest loss.

toggle on the show offline and outdated repeaters to see them all

toggle on the show offline and outdated repeaters to see them all

toggle on the show offline and outdated repeaters to see them all

5.1 watt is good on UHF, they only preform at anything close to 8 watts on VHF,

You'll get yourself all twisted up trying to find "Legal" Part 95a radios with Type Certification.  Especially if you want a certain standard of actual (not just advertised) performance.
 
Take a deep breath, and go searching the FCC violations for ANY instance where a user was fined specifically for using Part 90 radios in GMRS.  You'll search high & low without finding a single instance.
 
Your options for good (and relatively inexpensive) radios increases dramatically once you take the step over to Part 90 equipment (which meets or exceeds all Part 95 technical spec's.)
 
I am not a lawyer, your mileage may vary. Caveat emptor, etc.

If you use the beam I would go with less gain on the yagi for a more usable beam width. I had a 5 element on a rotor and was able to work repeaters 45 miles away at my last house. Yet again a DB-404 30' off the ground in my attic with 45 watts gets me into my chain o lakes repeater 35 miles away full quieting and I have talked simplex to other base stations 25 miles away. How high can you go? A 3' tripod and 10' mast on roof may just do the trick.

I'm using a J-Pole also but I'm having no noise issues. The feedline needs either ferrite beads or a balun installed about a foot before the antenna connector. I'm using a coil of feedline for my balun. Have you done either of these? The feedline balun is a 3 inch diameter coil of coax (3 turns).

In addition... what is the exact name of the file you are trying to open. Include the name and the extension: example foo.exe, tk550.zip, etc.  And, what operating system and version are you using: Windows-XP, Windows-7, Windows-10, etc.  Note that according to the Hamfiles download page the software you want only works on Windows-XP/32-bit and Windows-7/32-bit. Although, some users reported success on Windows-8 and Windows-10.