mbrun

Big national internet-enabled net for GMRS, No. Organically formed local net with a clear local mission, perhaps.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

To my knowledge, they are the only group lobbying on behalf of amateur radio. Without amateur backing, we could loose the only voice we have Washington and could find ourselves without spectrum for our craft.

They publish a couple of good magazines that are free to members and publish educational books that are useful to us all. In addition, they keep us informed of legislation that affects us.

I have heard opinions that perhaps at times they have not lobbied hard enough and that we have lost spectrum as a result Perhaps that is because there was not enough funding to wage the necessary defense, I do not know.

I find membership an appropriate support of their mission to serve and protect amateur radio. Such efforts are not free.

Just one man’s opinion.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Very good point.

Pressing the ‘Menu’ button operates as the ‘Enter’ function when navigating the function menus on Wouxun radios. If one gets in the habit of only pressing ‘Menu’ only when intending to make a change and ‘Exit’ in all other cases the problem of upsetting the codes can be eliminated.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Big national internet-enabled net for GMRS, No. Organically formed local net with a clear local mission, perhaps.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Agreeing that technician license is all that is needed.

At Field Day this year we had a amateur member focused on communicating CW with the ISS.

He had a nice setup. In consisted of a dual band ICOM radio, a homemade circular polarized Yagi mounted on top of heavy duty camera stand. Club members took turns (including myself) tracking the ISS across the sky while using a satellite tracking app on an android. There was loads of traffic to be heard.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Welcome to the forum. Enjoy GMRS and the knowledge you’ll gain here.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Yes. I have both.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

OK, so now we just generalize because a few people have had bad experiences with a few idiots?

I do agree that there are, unfortunately, a few 'hams' who are idiots and can't wait to fling their newfound 'expertise' in people's faces (even if they have it incorrect which is, admittedly, frequently).  However again, that is just a (very) few people overall and, it seems to be only people like yourself who they tend to gravitate towards.  That said, many times people bait them (intentionally and unintentionally). 

I find your videos, for example, entertaining and informative.  But for those not familiar with your style(?) and/or the few miscreant idiots who can't wait to show their 'intelligence', they come across as anything but entertaining and, the idiots are certainly not really interested in your point, despite the fact it is valid.  They wouldn't know that because the idiots stopped listening the moment they heard something they believed to be wrong. 

However again, despite your own (and others) negative experiences with a few miscreant 'hams', they certainly do not represent the vast majority of 'hams'. 

Indeed, there are quite a few GMRS 'aficionados' who can't seem to wait to expound about their expertise (to other GMRS users) based on a single personal experience, despite the fact that they have no idea whatsoever what they are talking about.  Shall we call out all GMRS users because these few??

I suppose my point here is that such idiots are not exclusively (or even predominately) 'Hams', and so when people make blanket negative comments, it's just rude IMHO and unnecessary.  There are plenty of other non-ham idiots who jump in with their 'expertise', do we start generalizing about people in general?  How about the newbies who don't meet the average knowledge level? Do we respond with 'These newbies are always so stupid...'?

It just doesn't belong in a forum that is suppose to foster open discussion.

Too many times I've see valid technical discussions go completely off the rails and/or a post hijacked because somebody generalizes and/or feels compelled to comment about the poster rather than the topic.  It just doesn't belong in these conversations.

Just one opinion.
 

Create an account on myGMRS.com. Login and then go to the following URL (https://mygmrs.com/repeaters). Enter your search criteria to see repeaters.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Big national internet-enabled net for GMRS, No. Organically formed local net with a clear local mission, perhaps.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

I just set up my KG-905G as mobile radio.
 

Thank you mbrun , your explanation makes good sense. I will take these nuggets of info and research a good solution for myself and community.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Michael,
thank you so much for the detailed information, this is so helpful. this is all very new to me but interesting.
Thanks again,
Frank
WRPV210

There are a couple of settings on the radio that can affect what channels are actually scanned when you initiate a scan operation.

The first one is the ‘SC-Group’ setting (function menu #43). Within this menu, there are 10 ranges of channels you can select for scanning. These ranges are always selectable for use from the radio but are configured via the software only.

The second is the ‘SCAN-ADD’ setting (function menu #33). This is a channel-specific setting that determines if that particular channel is scanned. If value is ON, then the channel will be scanned, if it is OFF, then the channel will not be scanned.

It should be noted that a channel will only be scanned when the channel is within the range of channels included in the active SC-Group’ setting and the channel’s SCAN-ADD setting is ON’.

If the radio did in-fact scan all 30 at one time, but now only scans 20, then it is likely that either the current SC-Group setting has changed and/or the SCAN-ADD settings for some of the channels has changed.

You will find further information in the manual.

Hope this helps.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Yes I have tested the output power on the radio previously and found power levels to be acceptable. For the sake of this post, I just hooked it up to my dummy load, confirmed input voltage was 13.8vdc and achieved 49.0 watts on 462.6500 and 47.3 watts on 467.6500, 16 watts +/- on the upper mid power setting, 8 watts +/- on the lower mid power setting and 4 watts +/- on lower setting on both of the above frequencies.

BTW, do make sure that 13.8v is what the radio is seeing while transmitting, not just when idle.

Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

I feel your pain. Fortunately, I have been able to power through with nothing more than a small sledge.

In the past I have read up on alternative techniques that are permitted for use when a direct drive rod is not possible or electrically unsatisfactory. I just can not recall the variant’s off the top of my head.

You my wish to check out https://www.mikeholt.com. He runs an internet site many electricians turn to to learn and to work through challenges like yours.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

As has been mentioned, the ARRL has a book on the subject of Ground and bonding. Information can be found here: http://www.arrl.org/grounding-and-bonding-for-the-amateur. If you are in the mode of learning, purchase and read it.

The ARRL also has links to a lot of other references for those that care to dig in deeper. But be aware that there are competing theories amongst true experts about the ‘Best’ way.

From a pure safety standpoint, the National Electric Code describes the minimum requirements. This means, in part, that the NEC does not concern itself with RF grounding in any way that may help or hinder radio performance. Anything you may choose to do special for RF is over and above. So, at a minimum, follow the national electric code. At least if when you do, should you have a lose from lighting, your insurance company should have no leg to stand-on in denying your claim.


Now, let’s consider a common installation and a common and appropriate method of grounding. Here is the scenario.

You have a 30 foot metal antenna mast mounted outside, next to and attached to your home. A vertical antenna is mounted to the top of the mast. Your radio will be located in a first floor room or in the basement. The coaxial cable will enter the home within a few feet of the mast.

Hear are the steps involved.

A ground rod would be driven into the ground within a couple feet of the base of the mast. A heavy copper wire (#6 AWG) or larger would be used to interconnect the mast to this ground rod. Clamps made for this purpose would be used to secure the wire at both ends.

A coax of appropriate type and length is attached to your antenna. The coax runs down and is secured to the mast periodically so it does not flail in the wind. A coaxial cable lighting arrestor gets attached directly to the ground rod. The antenna coax attaches to the appropriate port on the arrestor.

A 2nd coax connects to the remaining port on the arrestor and is runs into your home and connects to your radio. The penetration into the home is sealed well against moisture ingress.

A #6AWG copper bonding conduction is then run below ground between your new ground rod to your home’s main/primary electrical ground rod. This bonding conductor is then securely connected to both ground rods. Clamps made for exactly this purpose are used. This step ensures both ground rods are now at the same voltage potential.

If your conditions are different, then some additions to, or modifications of this basic scenario will be warranted. In the end however, the basic principles will still be applied, just perhaps in a more complex configuration.

In summary, the mast gets connected to its own dedicated ground rod(s). A ground rod exists exists within feet of where the coaxial cable enters the home. The coaxial cable from the antenna gets connected to a lighting arrestor just before it enters the home. The lighting arrestor is either attached directly to the ground rod or interconnected to it with heavy copper cable (if it cannot be conductively mounted directly to it for some reason). All ground rods are bonded together with heavy copper cable per the NEC.

And there you have it, the basics.

If you pursue knowledge on this topic you will learn that none of these precautions will prevent damage to and perhaps total loss of your equipment in the event of a direct hit. Direct hits do happen to home antennas, but are relatively rare. What is far more common is lighting strikes nearby that induce voltage on your antenna system, and the static build up on the antenna system that can shock you or damage your equipment. It is these later two more common conditions that these steps ultimately help you with.

Good luck on your project.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

I have a 2021 Toyota Rav4 and my KG-1000-G GMRS mobile radio main unit is located in the luggage area (rear). I didn’t want to have to drill or glue the head unit to my dashboard but I wanted it in clear view. In the attached pictures below you can see how I used some parts from a cell phone dash mount and the back plate of the KG-1000G head unit to fashion a lean but sturdy mount that attaches to an air conditioner vent.
Photo 1: Head unit is in clear view with other OEM mobile interface devices. Note: The handheld mic cable does not perturb the head unit. Very sturdy.
 

 
 
Photo 2: Yes. Head unit cable is not discretely tucked away but head unit, head unit cable and mic are easily removed from vent and hidden under a beach towel on passenger seat; out of view while unattended.
 

 
 
Photo 3: Rear view of the mount.
 

 
 
Photo 4: Left or right holes are reasonable attachment points for ram style phone mount receiver. Countersinking with 1/2 drill bit helps to make original screw lengths usable.
 

 
 
Photo 5: Green arrow = existing mounting holes 1 of 6. Red is left hole of 2 closest to center mass balance point.
 

 
 
Photo 6: Superglue ( cyanoacrylate) nearly the entire periphery of the ram style phone mount to prevent rotation during assembly. Give it at least an hour to cure.
 

 
 Photo 7:
The ram style mount only blocks head unit cable exit hole slightly. Connecter may be still be easily threaded without interference.

 

Coming from the perspective of a radio listener, I think 1 min is a good value as well as a serves as a reminder to keep one’s transmissions short and keep the dialog moving. However, as the talker, I admit I have personally settled on 2 min. One just proved to be to short and restrictive in way to many cases.

While the TOT is a great way aid in keeping the duty cycle down, I like the security it provides knowing that if the PTT gets stuck unknowingly and accidentally that the radio will stop transmitting automatically after the TOT time has expired.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Press Menu, scroll to function Menu 14, press Menu, then press the PF2 button to cycle thru CTCSS, DCS normal, DCS inverted options.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Internally, repeaters consist of at least two radios. The MXT500 is only one. Depending upon how you built everything else in the system out, including whether you used one antenna or two, whether you were using a duplexer, and whether or not you built custom circuitry to allow you to integrate a mic while the two radios are interconnected, then perhaps.

The Wouxon KG-1000G is the only Part 95e radio I know of that is built to be used as a component of a custom limited-use repeater build, and OffRoaderX did it. It has the internal circuitry necessary for interconnecting two like models, and has modes for changing the radios behavior to operate as components of a repeater system. If using this model, yes you could use its mic to transmit while the radio is configured as a repeater, but only on the repeater Tx frequency. However, to use the radios for general comms you would need to be using separate antennas and you would need to switch the radios back into standard mode.

My advice, if you want a repeater, buy and put up a purpose built repeater.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Thanks for the advice.  I have settled on the CX-333.
FYI, I passed my Technician Exam this past Saturday.
 

Add repeater input frequencies into your scan lists as a way to learn who is talking on repeaters that may be within simplex range of you.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

For me studying for an exam, including the amateur exams, is all about real knowledge acquisition. Some of that knowledge comes from memorizing simple facts, some from deep dives into particular topics, some from doing and learning the math. The memorization part is the hard for me.

I used and recommend the ARRL’s official study guides for the exam as a starter (e.g. https://www.arrl.org/shop/ARRL-General-Class-License-Manual-9th-Edition-Spiral-Bound/ )
I read the books cover to cover at first, at least once. Then more and again as needed. I then leveraged the questions at the end of the book to guide where I needed more study. Every time I got something wrong or felt i was guessing, I would re-read the relative section of the book and use the internet to seek out more information.

I did use the Kindle version of the ARRL’s books on my iPad. The hyperlinks and ToC of the book made navigating easier work. The book is structured to make is possible to hop to the questions relative to what you are studying, and possible to hop back from the questions to the area where the supporting information lives.

While I never hear it talked about, the ARRL has their own sponsored website for practice testing. https://arrlexamreview.appspot.com. I did eventually leverage that site to test my preparedness, but again used it inform where I needed to study more.

As just a point of note, some of the best written explanations of various topics I found on net during my studies I found here: https://www.hamradioschool.com. While some topics are not related to current exam question pools, the information is definitely relevant.

Congrats on passing your Technician exam. Enjoy your journey moving forward.


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

I hear you, and the whole point of my post.

73


Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM