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Many of the commercial radios have a jumper you can change to filter the bottom end out or not which may be needed for data. An example, Vertex Standard VX2500, out of the DB9 connector on the back: Normal is to filter everything 300 Hz and below out, but for packet, you need to open it up.

I use the 60 watt version of the Surecom dummy load as well, though I forgot about checking with the dummy load ? perhaps later/next time. Did a little testing though; same abr400, same gp1, same vx4207 and same surecom sw102. There's now a diplexer after the radio, which it shares with a vx4204 en route to the coax/antenna. all tests were done on an unused 70cm simplex frequency, with 4 different pigtails. Pigtail sat between radio and meter, with diplexer connected to the TX port on the meter. 18" black rg8x - 1.03:1 swr, 48.4 watts 12" Proxicast branded LMR240 - 1.05:1 swr, 49.5 watts 36" grey pigtail, unmarked but listing claims rg8x - 1.02:1 swr, 48.8 watts 6" RG174/u from nanoVNA kit, with SMA-F to PL259 adapters at each end - 1.05:1 swr, 47.5 watts. Truthfully, not surprised to see a minor effect between cables. Trying another cable would help reduce the possibility of a bad cable being the issue. One other thought that hit me was taking a multimeter to that power supply, just to make sure it's putting out what it should be, both current and voltage. 30a (even peak rated) should be more than enough for 25 watts (the vertex and btech show 10-11amps draw on high power), and i'd expect around 5amps for a 25 watt radio. if both of those check out, i'm leaning toward the radio is the issue.

This might be something you would want to try. It's similar to a Ventenna. https://w6nbc.com/articles/2018-tbdQSTsmallwonder.pdf

Interference near a warehouse is not surprising as there are a myriad of commercial and industrial devices that can produce RFI, particularly in aging buildings. Variable frequency drives used to run HVAC equipment are a common sources of electrical noise. http://www.vfds.org/vfd-and-rfi-708163.html "The conclusion, later confirmed by the VFD manufacturer, was that the building, without a solid earth ground, was acting as an antenna."

In an earlier life I hid a J-pole in a oddly tall PVC waste stack on the roof. Worked great.

On the receiving/monitoring radio you must have the correct RX freq. You can put in the TX freq, but it’s not needed for monitoring. On the transmitting radio, you must have the correct TX freq and tone. Yes, the tone goes in TX CTCSS/DCS. Leave the RX CTCSS/DCS empty. It doesn’t really matter if you have the RX frequency correct for this test. Later on you’ll want to have both radios set the same so either one can talk to the other through the repeater, but for now I don’t want to confuse you with anything you don’t absolutely need. The default bandwidth is good. That’s wide band. I’m old and I’m going to bed. ? Ill check in sometime tomorrow afternoon. This should be enough to get you started. Go ahead and ask anything you need. There are smarter folks than me that might be able to help you more than I am.

Everything actually sounds good. I have to agree with a few things that @wayoverthere mentioned about the cable and a dummy load. Unless the patch cable is some really obscure cable that is incredibly high loss due to a bad connector attachment, etc., the patch cable is likely not it. I would replace the patch cable with some LMR400 (or equivalent) just as a quick test. Also, get a dummy load to test with. I use this one and its pretty good for the price. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Mcbazel+Surecom+0014-0156&i=electronics&crid=1PHJLEIZFR33P&sprefix=mcbazel+surecom+0014-0156+%2Celectronics%2C59&ref=nb_sb_noss

Here's a pic of the old overcrowded tower. The GMRS antenna, a Tram 1486-B, is on the left rear side standoff. It's time to get the second tower up if ever I get off my lazy butt to do it. One day it will go up. Nothing worse than leaving 120' of tower unused and unloved.

It takes you to: [link deleted by poster] which is a music video of Rick Ashley singing Never Gonna Give You Up And then it sucks up available RAM! So, yes: AVOID!

I’ve never tried these, and there are several out there. Here’s one: https://off-roadcomms.com/products/self-adhesive-magnetic-antenna-mount-plate

You should be fine. There are also vacuum mounts or peel and stick steel discs that the magnetic mount will stick to.

Reach out to Rich

Sorry, Thanks for educating me. That won't happen again.

I don't know. They filter 2175Hz out pretty well for the guys using tone remote control.

Anything specific you’re looking for help on? I have some experience with kenwood and can maybe help.

I'd be curious what numbers would look like into a dummy load rather than into the antenna. I'd also be curious to test how much difference in numbers a short pigtail (12"-18" ) really makes in the numbers. For reference, I did some testing on 70cm awhile back with a vertex standard radio (rated 45 watts out on high), the 17 ft of unlabeled cable that came with a Midland mount, and 35 ft of abr400. Measured at the radio, with coax and comet gp1 attached, I saw 43 watts either way. Measuring at the antenna end, the Midland cable showed 23 watts, while twice the length of abr400 showed 35 watts at the antenna. I want to say it was spot on 45 with a dummy load at the radio.

Thank you Lscott. Took me a while but it did work. I have a Win 10 pc that I rarely use (batt. issues), did all the "mods" on it. Worked out. Might go in and print it all out, or save it to a PDF to use on a "good" pc. Thanks again. Boatiac

Where are you measuring the power? At the radio or at the antenna side? How long is the coax between the radio and the meter? Is the cable between the radio and the meter also LMR400? How long are your power wires? What gauge are the wires? Are there any connectors on the power wires between the power supply and the radio. What method did you use to connect the power cables to the power supply? (Lugs, power poles, screw-downs, etc.) The more information the better.

Are you certain the DB-25 is putting out full power? Also, measure the power from the radio at the antenna connector. You could have a bad connector at either end of the cable.

You could buy on of these instead. I have had one up for a few months. Gets me to the horizon from my house. https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-400-470mhz-Connector-Repeater-Transceiver/dp/B08TWN78MM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ZXI7NCNZRN7J&keywords=base+antenna+gmrs&qid=1675179467&sprefix=base+anntenna+gmrs%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-3

This works fine for me. Not even a flicker on the TV when I key up my 20w base.

Just looked. I think this is what you want to use. https://www.winhelponline.com/blog/view-winhelp-hlp-files-windows-10-with-winhlp32-exe/

I think the concession counter is still open.

Now, this is waaaayy better than my question being answered. But I'm out of popcorn now....

The fake signal you are seeing is the radio checking for the WX alert tone. If you would like to keep WX alert on and want to scan, I recommend scanning on the B channel. This is due to the radio only checking for WX tones on A channel.

We have people in Minnesota and North Dakota that's as close as I get to -12 so you won't hear me complain about the cold.... wait, what? -34!!! Real feel -31? what kind of weather app crack is that? It's -34 but at least it feels like -31? The app should just say warning stay inside. As usual the site is restricting my number of likes so Happy Monday and stay warm. I removed my weather info out of respect to you both. ?

@Sshannon I find to be a good example of how to be on the forum, helpful as often as possible and almost always one to take the high road. @MichaelLAX I have also witnessed being helpful to others here including me. I don't always agree with his approach, I will say you know where he stands. The signature as I see it was intended to provoke, push buttons. Mission accomplished. So respectfully sure you could ignore it and by that theory you could ignore @MichaelLAX's response. I thought @Sab02r was being a big person in removing it. As for "I don't make a habit of kowtowing to the perpetually offended" That just proves what the intent was in the first place. And that is the problem as I see it. Be good humans or don't, your choice. Why do I bother with my thoughts here? I enjoy the community and I like learning and helping others. That is what I enjoyed in my work before I retired. I like radios. The stuff in this thread... not so much.

The last two of the frequencies you listed are not GMRS frequencies, but the first two are only 500 Hertz away from the interstitial center frequencies - it may be that your display just doesn’t show the fourth place. You might be picking up either interference or digital transmissions on those frequencies. Unfortunately I have heard that there are some low powered devices that have been imported, such as baby monitors, which use those FRS frequencies. From the regulations: The GMRS is allotted 30 channels - 16 main channels and 14 interstitial channels. GMRS stations may transmit on any of the channels as indicated below. (a)462 MHz main channels.Only mobile, hand-held portable, repeater, base and fixed stations may transmit on these 8 channels. The channel center frequencies are: 462.5500, 462.5750, 462.6000, 462.6250, 462.6500, 462.6750, 462.7000, and 462.7250 MHz. (b)462 MHz interstitial channels.Only mobile, hand-held portable and base stations may transmit on these 7 channels. The channel center frequencies are: 462.5625, 462.5875, 462.6125, 462.6375, 462.6625, 462.6875, and 462.7125 MHz. (c)467 MHz main channels.Only mobile, hand-held portable, control and fixed stations may transmit on these 8 channels. Mobile, hand-held portable and control stations may transmit on these channels only when communicating through a repeater station or making brief test transmissions in accordance with § 95.319(c). The channel center frequencies are: 467.5500, 467.5750, 467.6000, 467.6250, 467.6500, 467.6750, 467.7000, and 467.7250 MHz. (d)467 MHz interstitial channels.Only hand-held portable units may transmit on these 7 channels. The channel center frequencies are: 467.5625, 467.5875, 467.6125, 467.6375, 467.6625, 467.6875, and 467.7125 MHz.

I fabricated this setup for my 21 Silverado Diesel Dually. I hang it on the lip of the passenger side of the center console, close the lid, and angle the radio towards me. I hang a towel over the lip so the bracket won't scratch the console.

I think first you need to register. When I did I just used my call sign as my username.

I used to belong to a CB club many many years ago in Colorado Springs, I just got my GMRS license, don't have a radio yet. Over the years I've looked at ham radio, but the cost of equipment kinda kept me away, gone are the days of build it yourself Tandy kits. I'll have to see if there is much activity near me, I'm between Waco and Austin here in central Texas, there are a few low power repeaters in and around Austin, and a big on near Waco. Used to be a sideband group in Salisaw Oklahoma I could reach on 10M. with an Antron 99 at 30 ft. Will have to wait & see how the GMRS plays out down here

It’s 60 fps of Rick Astley in all his full 4K UHD remastered glory; sounds like you may need to download more RAM if you ask me: https://downloadmoreram.com