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It shouldn't.. .but, that is no guarantee.. I have one of the cheapest wifi-cameras you can buy mounted on my Jeep's 3rd brake-light/license plate bracket, and my antenna is mounted about a foot away above the passenger side brake-light (see image) - i've never suffered any interference.

This is just an "I think", based on owning a couple... from what I see, the Amateur Radio and the GMRS radio are the exact same radio, in every way, shape and form. What distinguishes the GMRS radio from the Amateur Radio is the stickers, labeling and what firmware is loaded at the time of sale from the manufacturer. Again, making assumptions based on past experience owning some of these, the firmware for all versions of the radio are likely stored in a controller memory. Because each radio is identical, all 3 versions of the firmware are stored. There is a BIOS (Basic In/Out System) that is independent of the firmware loaded. The BIOS will look at the boot options and see if there is a command to go to a boot menu or load the stored data in the EPROM (aka ROC/Radio On a Chip). If there is no indication to load the boot menu, the BIOS loads the current radio configuration, memories, restrictions, etc.. If there is an option selected to load the boot menu, the BIOS will load the menu. Depending on what you pick, if anything at all. the bios will flash the EPROM with the firmware stored on the controller memory and then reboot, loading the new operational state. This is why all of your saved memories and settings gets wiped when you change modes/types. Just to recap what I mentioned before, in Ham mode, it only allows transmitting on ham frequencies. On GMRS mode, you can only transmit on the pre-programmed GMRS frequencies stored in a memory channel. In normal mode, you can transmit on every frequency from 136 MHz to 520 MHz.

No, I think it’s going to be the increment of change in frequency when you are in VFO mode and go up or down in frequencies. It isn’t relevant for GMRS.

Looks like everyone was right. Not enough horsepower that battery pack. So, I got a charge controller for my solar panel, 7ah battery, mini inverter and all is well in paradise. Should have posted this sooner and saved myself the headache. By the way the Ammo Can looks great. Thanks for the help.

And the best price I find for a top quality made up cable with pl259 connectors is this M&P 50 foot cable. This is what I have: https://www.gigaparts.com/ultraflex-10-pl-259s-50-ft.html I didn’t check for ABR, but their cables are pretty good too.

I don’t have one but by far the folks who have them are very positive.

M&P is about the only "upgrade" from LMR400, unless you go to hardline! This site will custom make the M&P in the length you specify, with or without connectors: https://www.buytwowayradios.com/messi-paoloni-mp-uf10-mr.html

You can order a 75 foot coax cable ready to go from DX Engineering. It is DX engineering brand 400MAX. It is available with PL259 or N Type connectors. The cable with PL259 connectors is $137 and the cable with N Type connectors is $140. DX Engineering 400MAX cables.

I can't speak about the Melowave antenna, but their NMO magnet mounts are good to go. I use one for my 38" Comet 2x4SR antenna on the back of my SxS. I am currently running a KG-1000G as my base station and a KG-1000G Plus in my car and they are good to go.

Mine came with its own little monitor that is mounted on the front-dash.. from the time I put the Jeep in Reverse, until the image shows on the screen, is about 1/2 second... and as far as I can tell there is no transmission delay - the image is 'live' with no lag.

Yes, it makes a difference if you are in VFO mode and going up or down in frequency. It is not relevant to transmitting on GMRS but it is relevant for receiving frequencies in VFO mode..and tuning up or down in frequency.

I use DX Engineering 400 Max. Good stuff. They will make whatever length you want. https://www.dxengineering.com/cableconfigurator/cabletype They also have assembled cables in 75 foot length's with either UHF or type N connectors. Type N is better for UHF frequencies. https://www.dxengineering.com/search/department/cable-and-connectors/part-type/coaxial-cable-assemblies?N=brand%3Adx-engineering%2Bcoaxial-cable-type%3A400max%2Bcoaxial-cable-length%3A75-ft

I think GMRS is rad, I got my license but just don't have a lot of people in east San Diego using repeaters. A new one went up recently and I actually talked to a guy on it which was kinda cool, other than that I have never had a radio check come back to me on the other one. I got my HAM license and it is night and day, tons of good strong repeaters on peaks, lots of people talking and through a linked system I can hit my house 100+ miles away from down in the desert.

@WRVY822 A GMRS type certified radio is not supposed to allow you to transmit on both HAM and GMRS at the same time. Some radios appear to get around the separation of hardware issue by wiping out the programming every time you switch from one service to the other and only allow you to transmit on one service at a time. There are HAM radios that can transmit on GMRS frequencies but you are not supposed to use them for that. I do not have the radio in question so I can't tell you what it actually does, I can only tell you what it is supposed to do.

It would be ideal if Gigaparts had a 70 foot piece of M&P as Boxcar suggested You can splice them as you asked, or you could: 1. order exactly the length of 400Max you need with ends installed on it from DXEngineering or 2. order the 100 foot cable and two extra Evolution connectors (M&P makes great connectors) and cut the cable to the exact length you need plus an extra jumper. Gigaparts has the best prices on Evolution connectors and they come in packages of two. If you decide to splice two made up cables together with a barrel connector, but sure you use a good quality barrel connector. I recommend Amphenol. That will minimize any losses. As @WRXP381 mentioned you could just order bulk cable and install your own ends. There’s nothing wrong with that.

Why not just order a 70 foot cable from Gigaparts?

I am looking into linking my repeater with a friends repeater, to extend both of our coverage. Preferably something plug & play and easy to use (set it and forget it). What options are there and if you've used any, how did it/they perform? TIA .

WSCH382. I have been watching the videos and Randy you are the spokesperson for GMRS. Your videos caught my interest and now I hav joined the GMRS community

Fashion by La Bare

I appreciate everyone's input. The Wouxun (20 hours later) is no longer on backorder, so I've got one on the way. I'm hoping this will be a good 1st mobile radio that will keep me interested and learning. My goal is to someday have the knowledge to understand this new world I'm walking into without getting overwelmed.

The Comet 2x4SR works well for 2m, 70cm and GMRS. I tested the the SWR while inside the garage and the highest I got was 1.6 to 1.8 at 467 MHz. And I know being inside the garage and the metal garage door tracks effected the SWR reading a little. I have no problem receiving and transmitting and always get good signal reports. I would love to put the Comet 2x4SR on the roof of my Ford Escape but it is too tall to fit into the garage or the VA parking garage.

An expanded metal rack makes a pretty good ground plain for the Comet 2x4SR antenna. Here is a photo of the rear rack on my Honda Pioneer 500. I have the antenna set in the center of the rack. Here is a phot of the rack before installing the antenna.

Update. Mine has shipped

Yeah, but I like to live on the cutting edge.

Shouldn't 2 different frequency segments. Guess you are going to have to send it and find out. But not 100% since non adjacent frequencies can still wipe each other out with enough power, suppression of harmonics. Especially, with antennas less then 1/2 wave length away (longest wavelength/ frequency). Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Hopefully that STEP button will help.

Yeah, but I did find the manual online so I hope its settable. Its a funky radio for sure. Those tiny buttons, Arr!

My display has no "." so its showing 28300 kHz... I screwed up the MHz / KHz its showing - dont have my glasses right now.

I finally got a chance to look up the two feature sets on my XTL4999.9 radio since I was doing my monthly updates on all my radios and the two features that are flashed on this radio are G241 (Analog Only Operation) and G51 (Smartzone Systems Operation). Interesting that whoever ordered this radio with the intention of using it on a Trunk system wouldn't order it with the Q806 Digital Operation feature. At least they could use that feature for some privacy on a simplex channel if the radio was used in a Law Enforcement environment. So far its still one of my many backup radios.

Thank you all very much!

Here’s what another vendor says: Wouxun KG-1000G Plus Features 30 GMRS Channels 8 Built-In GMRS Repeater Channels 999 Custom Memory Channels 50-53.995 MHz Receive Only Frequencies (6m) 108-179.995 MHz Receive Only VHF Frequencies 320-349.995 MHz Receive Only Frequencies 400-479.995 MHz Receive Only UHF Frequencies (70cm) 700-985 MHz Receive Only Frequencies AM 108-136MHz (RX) Built-in NOAA Weather Channels https://www.buytwowayradios.com/wouxun-kg-1000g-plus.html

I have a few GMRS antennas but I mostly have and use Abbree 701 and 771 dual band antennas and they work just fine. A GMRS antenna probably works better but I have not had any issues using the UV antennas.

I missed the "six days" part.... I'm blaming COVID PTSD.... all the projects that got scrapped due to delays and backorders that went on for months. I saw "Backorder" and my brain fried. The only other + to the UV980p is it also receives AM. Not a huge selling point for me... but it might be fun to drive the kids by the airport and listen to the tower while watching planes come in. But if I can't talk on GMRS, no bueno. Appreciate your opinion .

So after a bit of a rabbit hole on the LMR400 vs M&P, I landed on the M&P Airborne 10. Between that & the Comet, I think I'm on the right path. All good stuff. Appreciate everyone's feedback. I'll report back in a couple weeks once it's all in place. Thanks all.

Here's a video that (overly) dramatizes the differences in SWR and insertion losses for UHF connectors vs. N connectors. However, while the narrator makes it seem pretty dramatic, the actual numbers don't represent noticeable differences in real life. Reflected power isn't truly lost unless you are using lossy cable and the reflected power is converted to heat. However, for a person obsessed with having nearly perfect metrics, the differences might cause a loss of sleep. Finally, a word about adapters. Adapters are convenient, but if you're ordering cable custom made, just get an N male on one end and a PL-259 on the other and make sure they're good connectors, such as M&P.

When the PL-259 and SO-239 connectors were first introduced, they were called UHF connectors, but now UHF runs from 300 MHz to 3000 MHz and the PL259 and SO-239 are not very good connectors for that high of frequency. The losses for almost everything in radio increase at higher frequencies. Some PL259 and SO239 connectors have a lot of insertion loss above 300 MHz. N connectors solve that problem. Unfortunately, almost every manufacturer sold in the US puts SO-239 connectors on their radios. Most manufacturers of UHF antennas make antennas with N connectors as well as SO239. It's a little confusing, but PL259 is the PLug and SO239 is the SOcket. The numbers came from the military. In an ideal world, GMRS radios would have N female connectors on their backplanes. Fortunately, Messi & Paloni (M&P) and probably Times Microwave (as Amphenol) have developed higher frequency SO239 and PL259 connectors that are supposed to be good for frequencies in excess of GMRS. I buy cables with connectors, but I have cut them to custom lengths. But to me this is a hobby and doiing things like this are enjoyable. DXEngineering will make up cables with whatever connectors you want to any length you want. The tools required for the Times Microwave are pretty pricey but you can get by with just a decent crimper and utility knife if you're very careful. M&P can be done with just a soldering iron and wrenches.

There are lots of different types of LMR cables and RG cables. Generally speaking larger diameter cables have less attenuation. Times Microwave makes the genuine LMR cables and for distances like yours LMR-400 is typically considered the minimum. There are several companies that manufacture cables that are very similar in quality to LMR-400 as well. Messi &Paloni is one I like. You probably want to steer clear of the knockoff brands from China, such as the KMR400. I haven’t tried it myself so I can’t definitively say it’s bad, but I also haven’t heard anyone brag about it. RG213 is good cable for the right application (lower frequencies and/or shorter distances). If you only had to go 20 feet the difference would not matter as much. But hang onto it. You always need a few jumpers.

The wrong type of coax or bad coax will cause even the best antenna to not perform well. RG-213 is good for HF frequencies but not so good for VHF or UHF frequencies. I suggest getting some good LRM400 or equivalent coax first. And if that doesn't help, look into a better antenna. The Comet CA-712EFC is an excellent antenna and is not much more than that no name antenna from Amazon.

Might as well have been burn before reading.

Sounds like a great trip. My wife and I have taken similar trips out that way. Found the guardian lions of the desert just by chance out on Route 66 Near Amboy, west of Needles.

@WRKC935 Yep, Hollywood tends to only portray a small extreme example of group. Examples of how they portray groups: All CB operators are good old boy truck drivers. All Texans wear cowboy hats and boots and say "yeeha." And the list goes on. PS Yes, I know some people here are going to claim those two examples are accurate.

It’s the same for both ham and GMRS so it cancels out.

Ham radio is aimed at people who are interested in the science and technology of radio communications. People who just want to communicate have to jump through some hoops to become a ham. GMRS is easier, covers your entire extended family, and doesn’t require jumping through hoops. Just pay your $35.

Good recommendation. The main issue with linked repeaters is when one is used the whole system is in use over a wide area making the additional repeaters rather useless. For example when two locals are talking, on their locally linked repeater, why would somebody 200 miles away care about their conversation when all they want is to contact their base station from across town using their locally linked repeater. With many of the Ham repeaters, particularly the digital voice mode ones, have a way to either access the repeater and keep the communications local or address a remote repeater(s) specifically for a link.

Unless you never transmit to it you can’t because any transmission can be scanned. That has nothing to do with the repeater brand or model. If you need security neither GMRS nor ham radio are appropriate.

Final update: The 102” whip with the slim jim was too cumbersome to be “portable”, so i moved the so-239 bulk head to the top of the case and i now use a Nagoya NL-R2 instead. Then i widened the hole where the so-239 use to be and installed a water proof cig plug socket for solar charging. This project is now complete.

None are 100% fail-safe.. If you want to 100% fail-safely hide your information from any person, agency or situation, then the only way to accomplish that is to go off-grid, not get a license of any kind, and do a whole lot more stuff. If all you want to do is prevent the average lazy radio-stalker from easily and quickly finding your home address when all they know about you is your callsign, then a PO Box or HamRegistry is plenty good enough.

Maybe a silly idea, but if MURS was legally 10 watts instead of 2 watts, I would be happy to use it outdoors. But the 2 watts doesn't really do it for me, unless I am only a few houses away.

Use DSD plus fastlane with your dongle for the best public service you can get, 35 Bucks for lifetime and it handles simulcast better than any of my scanners. 10 Bucks for a year if you want to try it.

I’ve scratched the surface, but that’s all. I bought one of the dongles also. I’m sure it isn’t the quality of my Yaesu transceiver, but for something the size of my index finger it’s amazing!