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I don't know as I never used one. You will be happy with the Comet mount. Let us know when you get it installed.

I would not add any more rubber grommets as you're looking for trouble. The Nagoya mount, which is crap, will work as is and prevent water getting in, but it is more ideal to have it seat properly. If you can return the Nagoya for a refund and get an original Comet mount as it will mate up perfectly. Oops, brain fart. I meant trunk lip mount. https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/cma-cp-5nmo

Blasphemy! Everybody knows there is only ONE real Godzilla. And he is in black and white. The end.

Holy moly - it never crossed my mind that "username" for the repeater info is actually the call sign rather than my email address I use to log into the forums. I just tried my call sign instead of email address and it totally worked. I'm in! yay!

Other aspects to consider about antenna gain A higher gain antenna does not create more power than the radio produces on its own. Antenna gain increases or decreases signal directionality. Looking at antenna charts demonstrates the signal pattern of an antenna. Notice, the higher the gain the more directional its signal pattern becomes; think Yagi antennae. Consider your location of use, then chose the appropriate antenna. Using an example of an adjustable lens flashlight (torch) such as the Maglite: Remove the adjustable end exposing the bulb only, notice the produced light may fill a dark room; think low gain antenna. This why a lower gain antenna is much better in an urban area, in areas with much more obstructions, in forests, and the like. That is why many folks in locations with buildings, many obstructions, forest, and the like, when switching to low gain antennae have better TX and Rx signal reports as well. Now connect the adjustable section and its lens to the flashlight, adjust it. Notice it is now concentrating the light in a much more directional beam. Now the light does not fill a room with light; it performs better pointing into the room; think high gain antenna. The higher gain antenna performs better in less obstructed areas, such as open roads without obstructions, mostly flat landscape and the like. Thus, in considerably more open unobstructed locations switching to a higher gain antenna will increase its reach. Keep in mind, the radio is outputting the same power to the high gain antenna as it does to a lower gain antenna. The difference is the high gain antenna is creating a more directional signal. Yes, the above is an odd example, however I hope it makes sense.

I would be sure it is more than the height of the antenna away from power lines, in case it comes down it will be less likely to hit/take down the power line. I would also mount the antenna so the bottom is at least 3 feet from the metal roof. Also, the suggestion by GROW to mount it on the gable is a good one.

Ordered the Comet CP-5NMO! Thanks for not letting me totally fail guys! On a side note are Tram mag mounts any good?

The O-ring that I am talking about is a standard design of the NMO mount as it seals between the mount and the sheet metal of the vehicle when you punch a 3/4" hole in your roof.. You just don't see it. The problem I see with the Nagoya is the mount in your picture looks like it is taller by one thread count compared to the Comet. It's best to stick with Comet as there products are top notch.

But is the center conductor of the antenna making good contact with the center of the NMO mount?

No, not an issue as it's partly the design of the Comet antenna as it has a very short threaded section. And the magnet mount has higher threads than what a Comet mount would supply. You have the rubber gasket inside the comet antenna to protect from getting water into the antenna base. And threaded part has an O-ring underneath the threaded section to prevent water getting into the coax of the magnet mount. That said, water will only get on the threads on the base and the antenna, but not into the parts that matter.

"Coverage area" is only an guesstimation. Anything that remotely resembles a wall (even trees, but especially hills) will block radio waves in the GMRS/UHF frequency range.

I grabbed the only NMO mount I had handy which is a Melowave magnet mount. Here is what they should look like. So far I have only used the Melowave and Midland NMO magnet mounts and I have not had any issues with my antennas fitting correctly.

Yes that is a problem. You want the antenna to sit down all the way onto the mount.

The number of people who would know a $20 radio from a $2,000 radio on a TV or movie screen is statistically minuscule. Practically equivalent to zero. They went with something that looked right and was cheap.

Way back (Early 90's) I purchased this high power RadioShack GMRS radio that lead me to getting my GMRS license: And now i have a few H3's that sparked my interest in radio again, as well as the KGQ10: It's truly incredible how far we have come, yet still work off the same principles. Wish I could get the old RadioShack running again, I lost the charging cable but have an adjustable charger. But that battery simply won't charge enough to transmit or light the display for long as I am sure if I could it would work just as it did on day one.

The cells in the battery pack are probably just AA size if you want to rebuild the battery pack.

Glad to hear that the suggested tips worked for you, so that you do not have to return your DB20-G. I 2nd @tcp2525's comment that it is a terrific radio. I have purchased two DB20-Gs and my original Anytone AT-779UV.

What, an americanized Godzilla? What is this world coming to.

Dear Siri, I am tired of your shirt

Or they were just making a movie and needed a cheap radio to use as a prop.

Wrong on both counts. I have several seats of RT Software and there are some very serious bugs in those seats which manipulate linked tables of DMR zones and groups that can completely corrupt a codeplug. Having said that I will continue using RT Systems software, avoiding those features which corrupt memory. As far as Chirp goes although it is free, it is no sketchier than any other software I’ve used and the developer is very responsive. I’ll continue using it as well. As far as triggering malware detection software I’ve seen false positives on several different CPS programs by various antivirus programs. The reason is heuristic detection. It works by watching for snippets of software that resemble malware. Programs intended to program radios match that pattern, even though they don’t have actual malware embedded. That has been discussed before; it’s not new.

A buddy picked up some cheap XTS5000’s at a few swaps. Used some utility to create a fake authentication file for the radio. He says he uses them to monitor his local 700/800 MHz public safety frequencies.