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I beginning to think that he got kicked off of the short bus and possibly banned from ever riding it again.

I have 2 AR-5rm's and do not have that issue with either one. So that makes me think it's a defective unit. On a side note, and I'm not sure if it's necessary, but I always make sure my radio is off before I attach or detach my external. It's a leftover habit from running sound equipment. It's quite easy to damage amps, speakers, and mics by connecting while under power. Maybe the same goes for radio.

Did your parents have any children that lived?

Akshully - In most (all?) states you cannot simply "look up" info from a license plate. Whereas anyone can look up someone's full legal name and address in about 3 seconds on the FCC's freely available and widely-known website. Not saying criminals are going to be searching out people on vacation as the OP suggests (that's stupid), but comparing looking up a vehicle tag to a callsign is not a valid comparison. ..and if i've learned anything from people on this website, it is that minor little pedantic details like this are apparently very... VERY important and worth arguing over for days or even months to prove who thinks they are smarter...

Well, I got up and running with my new antenna, a $40 “uayosek”(whopping 2.5db) off Amazon and 25 ft of DXEng RG8X connected the BF UV5G Plus. At 16’ in the air with my handheld, it got 4.84 watts on high @1.04 swr. Worked well enough I bumped it down to medium and got 3.42w, and 1.62w at low. I was able to hit the big repeater on Sunday full quiet at high, and a little scratchy on medium. Having listened to suggestions made, and the Euro being about even with the dollar, I ordered 25 feet of MP Ultraflex 7 Sahara, which arrived today. Preliminary test shows 7.94w, 4.95w, and 2.61w, a significant improvement. SWR appears a tiny bit higher, but it is coiled and only tested on the antenna down so that will probably change. Price wasn’t too crazy for the Ultraflex, about $65 assembled and shipped. It definitely fits the bill though, lighter than LMR400, only .28 thick, the BNC connectors they put on it look like they were straight up machined out of bar stock, and its db loss is only a touch higher(.1 or .2 db) than LMR400UF. I am gonna try to get it all put up tomorrow night for the local net, but so far it looks like it will work well.

I decided to start this thread so as to not derail other threads. The MXT500 I recently bought only had 30 channel slots and not the 127 slots as others have mentioned. And we all know Midland's software is not the best. When you go to their website, there is two different software versions to download. There is version V1.04 and version V2.01. Version 1.04 only works with the MXT500 with 30 channel slots while version 2.01 only works with the MXT500 with 127 channel slots. When you download the firmware update tool there are two folders with the firmware update .spi files. One is V1_149_2021_5_11 and the other is V1_172_2023_03_23. If you are fine with only 30 channel slots then use the V1_149 .spi file to update your radio and then continue using the V1.04 programming software. If you want to have 127 channel slots then you must use the V1_172 .spi file. WARNING: if you use this file then V1.04 programming software will no longer work for your radio. You MUST use the V2.01 software to now access your radio and program it. Again if you update the firmware using the V1_149 .spi file then you must use V1.04 programming software. If you update using the V1_172 .spi file then you must use V2.01 programming software. Updating the firmware using the V1_172 file does give you all 127 channel slots and the V2.01 software must be used. Midland makes things difficult since the Readme file doesn't say anything about this. Hopefully this will help others that have the MXT500.

You just can't help yourself can you. No one cares what you think and we definitely do NOT care for your Negative Nancy attitudes towards everything. You seem to have a mental issue and you really should go seek professional help for it.

To each their own. I do not trust anything attached to the headrest to stay put in an accident. And I too have seen my fair share of accidents and weird things do happen in an accident. I personally won't take the chance if I don't have to. Plus I don't want any type of speakers right next to my head while driving. I want to be able to hear everything that's going on.

I picked up that habit in the military. I was told that plugging or unplugging accessories while the unit is powered could be harmful. TBH, I just took it as gospel and never did any research of my own. It takes literally a second, so I don't see any need to change my habit.

I think elsewhere he said they use BF UV-9Gs.

No... it's not necessarily a problem. Comet antennas have the washer inside the NMO mount. Other antennas I've seen have the washer on the outer ring of the antenna instead of inside. I actually prefer Comet's approach. But either one will work. The Comet approach is more solid. Putting the o-ring on the outer flange of the antenna is going to work fine for some mounts, and not work for other mounts. But I haven't seen a mount that wouldn't work with the washer on the inside, assuming the antenna is also designed to work that way. Many antennas, inside the threads it's not water proof. The comets are.

Maybe Socalgmrs swallowed a bag of cow manure and is just regurgitating some. OBTW, he's the only entry on my ignore list.

MORE negative crap ... Really ?

Some people are just such tightwads that they can turn coal into diamonds when they walk. $25 is not a bad price for software that you know is going to work with your radio. RT Systems is working on more Mac versions of their software for different radios. Or at least that's what they stated in the email I received from them. The only time I have had an issue with RT Systems software was when trying to use a cheap programming cable with a Prolific chip on my Mac. I'm sure the Amazon cable was a pirated Prolific chip on top of that. I tried that cable with RT Systems software on a Windows 10 and a Windows 11 computer and it worked. Though 11 did give me a little trouble. The same cable absolutely will not work on a Mac. I tried that cable with my 2018 Mac mini and my M4 Mac mini. Edit: The cheap cables from Amazon with the Prolific chips do not work with MacOS. There is a thread on the QRZ forum on this and it seems the pirated Prolific chips found in the cheap Amazon cables are the main culprit.

I’ve heard complaints about the price from people who haven’t purchased it, but not from those who have. It’s nice to have almost every radio I have programmed with almost exactly the same software.

It is a good thing that literally nobody on this forum cares what you think at this point, probably just like at home. And, point of order: Nobody asked you what you think or for your totally useless opinion

Well, I am in process of replacing 600 and some foot of 7/8 line on a tower with this exact problem. It IS water ingress. The only fix is full replacement of the feed line. Water gets in two ways. First is a break in the jacket, if the jacket fails the water runs down the cable and in the crack. Second is a break in the antenna radome (fiberglass outer housing). Water runs in, through the connector and into the cable. Either way, it's in the cable. But once it's in the cable, it's in the cable. If you want to try to take the cable down and put it in a dehydrator and get the moisture out, OK. But while you have the cable down, just go ahead and replace it anyway because that's the only option that will work. And while you are replacing the cable, replace the antenna. Then worry about water proofing the connections once everything bad has been replaced. Not sure why I got back on here just to post this. But I really have no intention after reading much of the stuff on here of making it a habit.

I have a couple of Wouxun KG-935 + and haven't used the Channel Wizard yet, so I gave this is try! Verified your problem using: 1) Using the Channel Wizard I created the a new repeater for previously unpopulated entry Ch No. 32 using the 462.725, TX CTC 67 and the Channel Name "HMRS-22" 2) I uploaded the radio config to my PC using the Wouxum software and confirmed the new entry for Ch No. 32 was there with the correct values. 3) I power cycled the radio and re-uploaded to my PC radio's config verifying Ch No. 32 still was 462.725, TX CTC 67 and Channel Name "HMRS-22". 4) Lastly, I selected CH No. 32 and invoked the Channel Wizard and verified it displayed Channel Name "HMRS-22", but with a Frequency 462.5500. One clue to the problem is the frequency of 462.5500 (channel 15) which is the first of the repeater transmit channels. The other clue is the Wizard uses whatever current Channel Name is displayed when the Wizard is entered as its default. This makes it appear it might using the other values for the channel as defaults, as well. This tells me the tool is just for creating new channels, but not modifying them, but with the possible exception of using an existing channel NAME as a default. The Channel Wizard is a cool feature I can see myself using when I don't have access to my PC!

"some people" are born without the natural and normal ability to relate-to, or understand other people's wants and priorities, as if they think they are the center of the universe or that everyone thinks exactly the same way they think. "some people" born without this very basic ability that also post proof of their defect on social-media or websites, over and over, time and time again, endlessly, again and again, non-stop and obsessively, are commonly referred to as retards.

Not all of the California folks though. @WRUU653 would help anyone who needs help. @Socalgmrs just doesn’t play well with others. It’s too bad too. I think his experience could have value. But because of the way he talks to people whatever value he might bring is rejected.

Dunno 'bout theirs, ours is the Motorola XTS 2500.

I have found that when I have external earpiece or speaker (or VOX recorder) plugged into my UV-5Gs, and my AR-5RM that I get a similar mic pop. It's VERY loud at the start of receiving a signal. So loud (regardless of volume level) that I can't really use an earpiece with those radios. And my voice activated recorder records a really loud pop at the start of each incoming transmission. So I'd say from my own experience with Baofeng radios that's just how they are, and you're not experiencing anything particularly unusual with yours. You won't have better luck by trading them in for new ones. They all do it, all of the Baofengs I've seen, at least. I'm not Baofeng bashing, either. As <$30 radios, they're great. But this feature isn't very well refined.

Most likely becasue none of them monitor the emails on file or they didn't list the repeaters.

Thanks Steve. I can say that the mic and headset are pushed all the way in with a solid connection. I have tried two different mics on both the AR-5RM and UV-5R and gotten the same problem on both radios. I will say the internal speaker does pop a little. I didn't notice it over the beep and key press. Do you think that's the same issue, just amplified on an external mic/speaker?

I have multiple radios with flashlights including the 935G+. I have never used one except by accident. It is a little known fact that you must blind yourself with a new flashlight and you must cut yourself with a new knife to insure future safe operation.

Buy once, cry once. RT Systems has become the standard for those who want problem free software.

Following with interest. I haven't experienced this problem, but I have two 5RMs that have never been unboxed, so it could happen. I'll be interested to see if anyone has figured out a fix.

I suspect the same thing as @WRUU653, a stuck button or bad switch. @WRXZ797, you might want to crack open the case and take a look at the circuit board. If it’s like many devices it will have dome switches that are closed when the membrane that forms the keyboard are deformed and a conductive element bridges a couple of PCB traces. It’s possible that the membrane has delaminated or permanently deformed. If nothing else maybe you can turn it on with the keyboard removed and bridge across the two traces for the scan switch to turn scanning off, then disable the function by placing a piece of tape over the two traces. If it has tiny discrete electromechanical switches instead of the cheaper dome switches you might be able to put an ohmmeter on the switch to see if it has failed in one state or the other. Or it might simply be time to replace the radio.

Scanning for Active Channels Your MXT115 includes an “auto-scan” mode that continuously scans all 15 available channels for activity. To enter and exit “auto-scan” mode: 1.Be sure the radio is turned on (see Power On/Off). 2.Press and release the Monitor/Scan / button to enter “auto-scan” mode. ▪ The Scanning icon will show on the LCD display when the radio is in “auto-scan” mode. ▪ Your radio will rapidly scan through the 15 available channels and will pause on any active channel. ▪ “Auto-scan” will resume when there has been no activity on the current channel for four seconds. 3. To transmit during “auto scan,” press and hold the PTT button on the microphone while the radio is paused on the desired channel. ▪ The radio will remain on the active channel for three seconds after the PTT button is released. 4. To exit the “auto-scan” mode, press and release the / Monitor/ Scan button. ▪ The Scanning icon will turn off when the radio is no longer in “auto-scan” mode. All from the Operators Manual hope that helps

I didn't consider it might be a deliberate safety feature! Makes sense given the programmable button feature seem otherwise well thought out. However, in the unlikely scenario, if I just gotta monitor a channel while turning the flashlight on and off I found setting the SQL=0 is a workaround. Thanks!

"Let him who has never made a silly, bonehead mistake cast the first stone" or whatever it was Jesus said to those guys.

I have asked you several times. What would you suggest as a better alternative with similar capabilities? Yet you never answer. If you want to rip something down go for it, but you better be able to not only back it up but suggest an alternative. I have to assume you either have no idea of what your talking about or something else in you life is affecting your logic and reason.

Radioddity has them open box for $139.99 Look here! If sale is still on…

Assuming you programmed in more than 74 channels. Have you tried downloading from the radio again to see what's actually there? I don't know this radio personally but chirp should tell you what you were able to put in.

One more down vote. I’m getting closer to winning the pool all the time!

Same. It performs pretty well for me and I like having it. I get better range with it than I do with any stick antenna.

It is NOT deformed; the lower area makes it easier to hold the solder against the connector and cable. Not all are made that way, it is not supposed to be straight across at the end. You can touch a soldering iron to it for a few seconds to get the solder to flow a bit better if that will give you peace of mind, but really not necessary.

Damn, you made it 6 days without punching a hole in it? That's got to be a new worlds record for having the willpower. You're going to drill, so get it out of your system now.

Hey folks... one of the big things many new users (and some of us old guys) enjoy doing is figuring out how far their radio can reach. It's always fun to contact someone from say 80 or 100 miles away on a handheld radio. In September of 2023, we went as a group up to Reddish Knob and played Radio for the afternoon. Everyone either used their handheld radio, mobile radio, and some extravagant "portable" setups to see what kind of range they could get from the mountain top. With GMRS (and some amateur radio) being a line of site service, its possible to make contacts from as far as 150-180 miles away while we are up there. I personally talked about 162 miles. We had a great time. Does anyone have any interest in doing something like this again this Spring? Just bring whatever gear you want to test out... you can try some of my gear, etc. It is paved all the way to the top of the mountain and any vehicle can access it.

@brasda91 Thanks for sharing that link. Yes that is always an option. But I don't want to have speakers right next to my head like that for several reasons. One is the fact that I wear hearing aids. Another is safety, I try to keep things that can be projectiles in an accident down to a minimum I cringe every time I see people bejewel their steering wheels and dashes right overtop the airbags. Thats nothing but a claymore waiting to go off.

I have moved on from that radio and really don't use it much. I was hoping to give it to my son, who has expressed interest in GMRS. I am going to reach out to Midland to see what they say, but I'm not holding my breath. I have also moved on to Ham radio and have been doing a lot with that on HF, but I really see the benefit still in GMRS as a family communications system. I'm planning on outfitting all my kids with radios. Do you have any suggestions on better, affordable GMRS radios?

Steve is correct. You will get opinions ranging from hey are junk and no better than a dummy load to they are great antennas. I have a 2m and 70cm Fara-J antennas to test out once the swamp dries up a little. They are clothe j pole antennas made with strips of faraday clothe. You can make your own or buy them from https://vfcomms.com . They make a 6m, 2m, 70cm, GMRS and Meshtastic version of their Fara-j antennas. I went to check the yard today and what a muddy mess. We went from snow and single digit temps all last week to 60 degrees yesterday and today.

He does not speak for the rest of us.. He is socially (and possibly mentally) retarded and still cant figure out why he cant make any friends -here or in real life.

I am not in range of the repeater from my home, only office. I would assume so, as switching to frequency mode shows the correct frequency. Sounds like the Channel Wizard is to get the channel built and then that's it - which is fine I just wanted to make sure its behaving as it should. I do have another KG-935G+ on the way with a programming cable - however it has been quite simple from the radio as well.

You would need to reset it to GMRS mode before you can transmit on GMRS. (in HAM mode if you enter GMRS frequencies/channels it will not allow transmit on GMRS. To reset a TID Radio H3 to GMRS mode, 1. turn the radio off, then hold down both the Top PTT button and the star button while turning the radio on 2. this will bring up a menu where you can select "GMRS" mode 3. and confirm the change by pressing the blue "yes" button, causing the radio to reboot in GMRS mode The radio will reset to GMRS mode, and it should have all GMRS channels already programed in it ready to use. you don't need to update firmware... just follow above procedure. One other thing to figure out. if you bought the HAM version, thenn the antennas you got may not be ideal for GMRS. but that is ok, the stock antennas are not the best anyway. Order a GMRS specific antenna like a Nagoya 771G, or a 701G... or there are many other good GMRS specifically tuned antennas. Even the Tidradio 771G is very good. (but the 771s are longer than the stock anteannas.

Hi and welcome! Sometimes it takes a few days for your call sign to be recognized by the forum software. It’s not a daily update. Don’t panic!!

Thank you so very much!

As I understand it, the Compactenna is intended to be mounted near the edge of hood or roof for best performance. That would suggest center roof isn’t the ideal location for this specific antenna.

GMRS band is primarily for contacting people you already know.

Forgot to add my repeaters. REP15R-22R are factory defaults in previous post. The one I will post below are open to GMRS license holders.