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My MX275 radio goes between my RV, boat, and occasionally my wife's car, depending on the activity. It always has been kind of a handful of stuff. Harbor Freight had a coupon that I used a week or so ago, purchasing an inexpensive Pelican case knock off. There was room in the case for the 275, its cig plug, two UV5Gs, one "RM", three rubber duck antennas, a charging base for the UV5Gs, and the stock mag mount antenna for the 275, which I don't use, but seemed like a good thing to toss in for completeness sake. I used the lower foam layer for the Baofeng charging base, cig plug, and stock external magnetic mount antenna for the 275. The MX275 instructions are underneath it all, since you need them to translate real PL tones to the codes that Midland uses. None of this is high end stuff, but it should be relatively convenient.

I only use CHIRP if i am adding a BUNCH of stuff, or i need to do something that can't be done directly on the radio because 1) i like to do it the manly way and 2) things like Tone and TSquelch are confusing.. You can put your radio on the correct Repeater-Channel, hit the menu button, select the CTCSS or DCT/DPL/DCS tone and save it, all faster than it takes your computer to boot up. It should literally take no more than 15-20 seconds to program a repeater on a GMRS radio.. 30 seconds if you are fancy and add the optional RX tone.

Even the Baufang's are pretty tough. Couple years ago when installing solar panels on my RV roof one of my UV5R jogged loose from my pocket clip and took a 12' fall to the cement.. I just said 'oh $hit" let it sit there on the cement while I continued with my work. The radio was blaring away sitting there on the ground. When i got down on the ground i checked her for damage, nothing but a slight indentation on one corner of the radio bear the antenna. Today, its one of my favorte radios, only becuse its been battle tested.

The Apache cases are hard to beat, especially when on sale and/or you are an Insider Member. I have several Apache cases. Here is one I setup for portable use with my Xiegu G90 20 watt HF radio. I've been thinking about setting another one up for my Wouxun KG-XS20G and maybe a 2m/70cm radio.

I figured I would let everyone know, I updated Chirp tonight and saw the Radioddity DB20G is now on the supported radios list. Which Im sure means the other brands of this same radio likely work with it as well. Consider this a friendly heads up. I think we all prefer Chirp over most all oem software.

All GMRS repeaters have a +5 offset from the receive frequency. So if the RX frequency is 462.575, the transmit (TX) will be 467.575. (the receive frequency always starts with 462, the transmit frequency always starts with 467) BUT - if you are using a GMRS radio, you dont need to worry about, or even think about that. Just find the correct pre-programmed "Repeater Channel" on the radio and enter the TRANSMIT (TX) tone.. You dont need the Receive (RX) tone for now because it is optional and it is only going to confuse you more. Save that for when you know what you're doing. If you are trying to do this on a non-GMRS radio, aka a H.A.M.s radios, then you bought the wrong radio.

I reset ch 22 and 38 to TONE and TSQL and that worked. And then set to fake DCS values, which worked. And then put the original DCS values back and it's still reading correctly. So, it's OK for now but I can't be sure it won't reoccur because it did occur on new channels I added for testing.

Somewhere on Youtube there is a video of some weird guy submerging a UV-5R in the toilet, freezing it and running it over with his very-manly Jeep... The screen cracked when the extremely-manly Jeep ran it over, but the radio still worked just fine.

Read and write from/to CSV files, import frequencies from external sources such as Repeaterbook; copy, paste, channels like working in a spreadsheet. RT Systems does all that too. Also, save a file with the OEM software, then change the frequency ranges of the radio and try to write the software to the radio, even though the channels you’ve programmed are well within the range you chose. It won’t work. It will with RT Systems and I bet it will with Chirp. The OEM software is worse than simple; it’s bad.

Oh come on now! What was it some sort of play Jeep like a YJ or worse yet one of those JK's? Real Jeepers know real very extremely manly Jeeps start with CJ

It is very extremely manly!

So which was it, very manly or extremely manly?

Yeah: it is from the format you chose to use for your original post. I suspected it was inadvertent! its a true PITA! I avoid most of the threads that use this style, but I am committed to following up on DB20-G support.

Oh interesting, I've been using the forum for awhile and never realized this. Maybe I should have posted this thread somewhere else. My apologies.

Working just fine for me (see attached). Care to share a screen capture of the error? You can also submit a bug report using the Help menu.

I few days ago, I placed a UV-5r on top of a 4x4 fence post while I was working on the pool and forgot about it. That night, we had a legit severe thunderstorm -- even got a tornado about 3 miles away. Two days later, I found it still lying on the post. I picked it up, carried it in, gave it 2 days to dry out, and it works just like it did before it got wet. Obviously, you can't count on that, and I wouldn't expose a UV-5r to rain intentionally, but still, I was pretty impressed.

That's because I mis-read where exactly the issue was, sorry. Yeah, it definitely sounds like Chirp then, if you were able to program the same split in using the OE software. I don't have split tones on any of my gear stuff, fwiw, and it seems to work fine. EDIT: playing around with this, I'm not able to replicate the issue. I'm running it on Linux at the moment, so MAYBE that has something to do with it, but I'm able to get both a simplex and a repeater channel with split DCS tones put into Chirp without it complaining.

I haven't used the DB20 OEM software, but with most OEM software, it's difficult or impossible to cut/paste the data of 100+ channels from CHIRP into the OEM programmer. I have several different brands of radios that I like to have programmed with the same channels, so that matters to me. However, the OEM software of some radios adds bells and whistles that the CHIRP software doesn't include, so I program the channels in CHIRP, "read" the radio into the OEM software, make my tweaks, and upload the result to the radio. I don't know why the OEM programmers can't just make their spreadsheet easy to cut/paste into.

True, but it's not about the cost/value of the radios. It's about being sure they don't get damaged and will work when you need them.

The ole MXT400 has the ability to search and recover the PL Tones as well. It wasn't mentioned in the OP Manual but I found out by testing the procedure on my unit and it works.

Fortunately, since I retired I will never have to deal with Mac again. I'm an old DOS dinosaur (like DOS 1.0). I lamented the origin of Windows. Then again I really hate the two, three and four step delete processes that have come about because folks did stupid duff like deleting all the files on an entire hard drive.

It works on a Mac.

The DB20 OEM software is pretty simple. What does CHIRP software do with this radio that the OEM software won't? I spent years programming control equipment. Every manufacturer had their own proprietary software. But once you learn the software none were significantly easier than the rest. So far it seems the same way with radios.

"Stealth" wasn't so much a consideration as "easily finding it when 1 of the kids accidentally drops it down a ravine"

I dig it Here's mine:

Many people equate Morse Code and CW. Some of us protest that they are different when people use the terms interchangeably, sometimes because we are being pedantic. I’m guilty of that, but because you asked I hope you’ll forgive me for trying to explain it in a way that is hopefully interesting. I’m on the road, woke up early, and I think the difference is interesting. A radio signal, at its most basic form is just an electromagnetic wave at a particular frequency, with almost no bandwidth. The simplest transmitter is an oscillator driving electrical power of a single frequency into a wire. That single frequency of RF contains absolutely no information. It’s just there when it’s on and not there when it’s off. But because it concentrates all that RF power into a single frequency, it’s easily transmitted by a very simple device and easily received with yet another simple device. That is the “Continuous Wave” or CW, a pure frequency of a single frequency that can travel far with very little power. And although you hear tones at the transmitter and receiver ends, there is no actual audible tone being transmitted. The audible tone is created just for the convenience of the operators at the transmitter and receiver. Samuel F. B. Morse had already developed a way to use DC electricity to transmit messages on the telegraph by turning current on and off in the familiar pattern that’s now called Morse Code. By applying that same code to turn on and off the continuous wave the earliest actual form of radio communications was implemented. So to pedantic purists like myself there truly is a distinct difference between CW and Morse Code. One is the medium. The other is the encoding that allows us to communicate the message. But because CW is almost never used for anything other than conveying Morse Code, the two terms have become interchangeable for most people.

I have two of the Apache cases too. The Retevis RT97 repeater setup an a few HTs. All the appropriate accessories under the repeater.

Showing respect for someone who passed isn't weird. The world could use more like you.

Maybe i am a wierdo... but i purchased a used anytone off ebay a few months back, and it had a calk sign programmed into it for the boot screen, i looked it up and the gentleman had passed away early this year, and he had a lot of similarities in life to myself and my wife..... i kept that call sign programmed in, in memorium of him. I never met the guy but i can tell you if i id did, we would likely have been great friends... i like to think he might be watching over me as sort of a "silent Elmer"... Like i said.... maybe i am a wierdo....

This is correct. Anyone can send a message through the Hams. We do it al the time. It's our #1 task with ARES.

There’s always the National Traffic System. https://www.arrl.org/nts Volunteers relay messages from point to point every day. It doesn’t get much use these days but we have a daily net designed to accept and deliver traffic. There’s also WinLink, which many of us use and which works like email for hams.

Or.... Both kinds of Music, Country and Western.

If I recall correctly, you have to do it in the software.

Record it and post it here. Someone will decipher it. (Still not me )

I’m running the MXTA25 ghost on a hood-hinge mount on the passenger side. Absolutely not the best location for it RF-wise, but it was the best spot for me since I wasn’t prepared to drill the cab roof. I’ve been testing it out the past few days w an AT-778UVII at ~5/15/25W and it’s done remarkably well. Granted, it does better when I’m pointed at what I’m talking to since it has the passenger A-pillar behind it. My radiation pattern is a bit wonky due to where that antenna sits. But I’m happy with this so far. I’ve been able to get into repeaters with low watts at distance so it’s working for me, despite the non-optimal config.

That really depends on the radio, each will be different. Some 50 watt radios will draw up to 13-14 amps while transmitting on high power. The Icom IC-2730A draws 13 amps and the Wouxun KG-1000G draws 12 amps. Each brand/model will vary on how much current they draw. Vehicles have not had actual cigarette lighters in them for quite some time now. Those were normally rated a little higher than the accessory socket found in most vehicles now days. Most manufacturers protect the accessory ports with a 10 amp fuse and the owner's manuals state to never exceed 10 amps. As you said, getting consistent power through a cigarette lighter/accessory port is not the most reliable. Plus you always take a greater chance of getting interference in the radio from the vehicle wiring or rf interference from the radio when using an accessory port.

Will you notice a difference in the antennas? At normal effective GMRS fars, probably not. Going for super extended mountain top to mountain top with antennas out of polarization angle agreement, yes.

if we're being honest.. I've done that more than once.. But it was with little kids goofing on their radios so it's ok!

What you did wrong was believing some clown on a GMRS radio that was claiming to be the local police.. TL;dr .. he lied to you..

I manually programmed the DB20-G with no issue. I read through old threads about issues with the programming cable, especially with windows 11. I spent hours going through drivers trying to find a solution. Radioddity told me to download prolific 2303 driver but that is not the chip in my cable. The only driver that is recognized is CH343. When I connect it in the software the COM channel is correct. When I attempt to read/write the radio screen shows “clone” but the read/write never initiates and then gives me a “read/write data failed” window. I’ve done everything possible. I run the programming software as admin. I tried windows 8 compatibility mode. I even tried all of these steps on an old laptop running Windows 7 as well. Nothing seems to work. I’m just wondering if there’s anything else people have figured out to correct this or if this is just a faulty cable that Radioddity needs to replace?