WRYS709

Daily nap time soon... Did you do these two steps in Freq/VFO mode? Push Menu, Push UP ARROW to SFT-D, Push Menu, Push Up Arrow to +, Push Menu, Push Exit Push MENU, Push UP ARROW to OFFSET, Push MENU, Enter 005.000, Push MENU, Push Exit

Are you able to see the frequency of 467.600 when you transmit and 462.600 when you receive? MON only turns off squelch to try to hear weak signals; you don't need it now.

read my last two posts...

Perhaps, once we are sure you are transmitting on 467.600 and receiving on 462.600 with the digital tone of D023N, then you can go for a ... ROAD TRIP!!!

I think you have the older UV-5R Go to Frequency/VFO Mode and Enter 462.600 Push Menu, Push UP ARROW to T-DCS, Push Menu, Up Arrow to T-DCS, Push Menu, Push UP ARROW to D023N, Push MENU Push EXIT Push Menu, Push UP ARROW to SFT-D, Push Menu, Push Up Arrow to +, Push Menu, Push Exit Push MENU, Push UP ARROW to OFFSET, Push MENU, Enter 005.000, Push MENU, Push Exit Stay in Frequency/VFO Mode and now try transmitting

Is it showing the change of frequency when you transmit? What is Monitor mode?

Then Push MENU again and push UP ARROW until you see MDF-1, then Push MENU, then push the UP ARROW key until you see FREQ, then push MENU again then push EXIT. Now you should see the frequency instead of the Name and see if it goes up to 467.600 when you push the Transmit button

Try this on Channel 25: Push MENU; Push UP ARROW until you see: T-DCS, then push MENU again, then push UP ARROW again until you see D023N, then Push Menu again then push EXIT

Forget Freq mode for now Try Channel 25 outside with a clear view north to Rancho Cucamonga All you need is a good quality USB to K-1 programming cable (preferably FTDI chip). You don’t need a digital modem; those are for ham radios for different purposes Did you program in the Digital DCS 023 tone for transmit?

When you push the transmit button does the frequency change to 46SEVEN.600 (467.600)? That is the correct channel If not, then try Channel 25 DigiRig?

Hard to discern between the UV-5G, UV-5X and the newest UV-5R(GMRS), but this chart from the UV-5G manual seems to indicate that he might want Channel 25 instead of Channel 17?

DigiKey?

Changing modes will delete all manually programmed channel information. Have you been able to run the programming software in any way so as to be able to restore your previously programmed channel information? At this point, your options to get the CPS programming software to work for you are possibly: 1) Install the WCH driver into Windows 11, per the zipped file I attached previously, and see if your cable works; 2) Run the CPS programming software in an earlier version of Windows starting from XP; 3) Obtain the alternate cable that works in Windows 11 with the WCH driver; and/or 4) Obtain an alternate cable that works with the FTDI driver for Windows 11

Be sure to check out the Notarubicon series of videos about GMRS on YouTube.

Just curious: which mode is your 779 set for? You can check by: while the unit is turned off, hold down the V/M key and power it up. Now you will be able to read the Mode and the firmware version number. Mode will be something like: GMRS or (136-174)(400-470) Of course, any mode will allow you to receive the MURS channels.

Programming this radio by hand is a PITA, as are most radios; hence CPS software. When I travel, I bring my laptop and the programming cable, as well.

I'll check the next time I have the CPS up and running, but I believe that one current criticism of the CPS software for this radio, is that the DIY Channels (31-39) are for repeaters only and not for Simplex with tones. I expect Radioddity to address that in a future update and perhaps even more DIY repeater channels, as this model continues to be a popular seller.

I have a version 2.01 of the Anytone CPS software (dated 4/27/2021) in my software library, but IMHO, the Radioddity v2.02 CPS software works best, as of today's date, for both radios.

I have attached the proper zip file to my comment, here: https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/5871-radioddity-db20-g/page/2/#comment-62389 The source of this file is a noted reseller of the Anytone AT-779UV, so it is free of viruses; and it works for both the Anytone AT-779UV and the Radioddity DB20-G. Let us know if this driver works for your cable, as there are at least two different cables for these radios. Unfortunately they appear exactly the same to the naked eye, and this solution only works for one of these cables on Windows 11.

Did you see my further comment over there about using v2.02 of the Radioddity CPS software to be able to program Channel 39 as a DIY repeater channel? I thought you had an Anytone, but the same solution should apply to your DB20-G.

I don't believe you identified which radio you are trying to program with CHIRP, but this video by Notarubicon is a good primer for CHIRP using the UV-5R as an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ_JzivmjyI

Download from Radioddity, their v2.02 of the CPS for their DB20-G (the same radio) and always Run as Administrator in Win 10. As you can see below, here is an Anytone AT-779UV programmed for a repeater on Channel 39 and it works:

Currently, there are three radios that are electronically exactly the same: UV-5G, UV-5X and the UV-5R (GMRS). Anything can happen in the future. Using the CHIRP setting should work for all of these radios.

The problem with using the DB20-G to build a repeater is what is called “Duty Cycle.” In the design and engineering of a transciever they decide the average time that the unit will be in “transmit” (especially on HIGH power) as compared to “receive” and then using this percentage they design the needed heat sinks to to disapate the heat away from the chips generating the heat. The DB20-G, like most transceivers at this price range, will get extraordinarily hot when left on transmit on HIGH for long periods of time and of course, by its very nature, the radio used in a repeater to retransmit received transmission will be on transmit for a much longer period of time that was designed and engineered into the radio.

The problem with both the Anytone AT-779UV and the Radioddity DB20-G in Windows 10 is that over the production run of the DB20-G/AT-779UV there have been at least two different programming cables manufactured for these radios; even though they look the same to the naked eye. Some people believe the difference is the manufacture: Anytone vs. Radioddity; but my instincts tell me that there were two different cables used by both manufacturers throughout the production run. One cable, when used in Windows 10, will automatically install the Prolific driver when inserted and the CPS software will offer you the proper COM setting in the SET menu. Then you can use the PROGRAM menu to Read From and Write To Radio. The other cable will not automatically install any driver when used with Windows 10. And even if you have previously installed the Prolific driver in Windows 10, this cable will not recognize this driver and still fail to work. In this case neither the SET or PROGRAM menus will work correctly. However, there is a driver package that can be manually installed into Windows 10 that will provide this functionality for this cable. Use the Startup.exe in the WIN 10 11 folder in the attached compressed file below and your cable should work. Report your results please. AnyTone 2023 USB driver.zip