WRAK968

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a way to have - one more way of Communications for people during emergencies

Ok, you need a power system that has back up power, either through a site generator or battery back-up. Any equipment used for emergency's needs to have back-up power so that the equipment is available during long term power outages. This includes things such as node controllers and internet modems/connections. You will also need to figure out how much battery power you will need.
 
Available to be used by all/ mobiles portable base use

Ok, you need someplace high that can overlook any areas you wish to communicate with the system. This rules out using a simple rooftop or TV mast mounted antenna. If you can find a tower site you'll be better off, however many times there are monthly fees for tower sites.
 
ALL hills/mountains
 
The higher you get the better the system will work (in theory) Mounting a repeater on a hill or mountain top will increase range, however using high gain antennas could create dead areas below the repeater. Keep this in mind.

I think right now, my biggest feature I need is a way that "during emergencies" we can post to one of the repeaters and it can be head on all of them....

You need reliability and dependability. You'll need to find a repeater with a 100% duty cycle and back-up power ability's. You'll need good feed-line and antenna and reasonable bonding. You'll also want to come up with a contingency plan to keep the repeater running during any emergency's that come up.
 

Well, seems like you did the first step which was to make sure there was no repeater in the area.

The next questions you need to answer:
 
What do you want to get out of your repeater?
Who will be using it?
How will users be using it? (Portable, Base, mobile, Exc)
What kind of terrain do you have around you? (Flat, Buildings/trees, hills/mountains)
How much are you willing to spend?
What features would you like?
 
Answering these questions gives you a ballpark idea of what you will need and what you'll be spending.
 
My current set-ups include:
Repeater: (RKR1225/GR1225) This can be an RX/TX radio pair, but I like the cleaner all in one look.
Controller: if using an RX/TX radio pair (Again, repeaters have this all in one usually)
Duplexer: and you'll want a good BP/BR duplexer as the "notch" type duplexers don't seem to get good service range.
Power supply: Can be a straight in power supply, I use a back-up power supply for one of the two repeaters in case the power goes out. Note, whatever power supply you use, it needs to be able to supply 12-13VDC at about 15-20amps depending on what your powering.
Line filter: If you get a buzz or hum during transmit, your power supply may be adding noise into the repeater, a line filter takes care of that.
Jumpers: For connecting repeaters RX/TX to the duplexer
Feedline: As much as you need to get to your antenna,
Antenna: should be higher gain for repeaters.
 
Optional:
Mast/Tower: If your not on the top of a hill, and you have a lot of buildings or trees you may need to purchase and erect a mast or tower to give you extra height. Rule of thumb is for every doubling of antenna height, your range doubles.
Node controller: There are a few out there. MyGMRS sells them as well.
Radio interface for node controller: Need to connect to the radio somehow
Computer/Programming software/programing cable: For adjustments and programming of the repeater if you know how to do this.

Come up with a plan and RESEARCH before buying any equipment.

The M1225 series radios are good, if you have a way to program them as they need an older computer to program them. I personally use Kenwood TK880's which have software readily available online and will work on modern computers. They are first responder grade which means integrity & reliability are there, and not as expensive as the 1225's normally cost.

There are a lot of possible reasons for the errors.
 
One: The 8180 scans single "Zones" Another words, if you have all simplex channels in one, repeaters in another zone, you would only be able to scan one or the other.
 
Two: You may not have added the channels into "scan" In the channel edit screen confirm the channels you want to scan have the "Scan add" checkbox checked.
 
Three: Off hook scan. Ensure "Off-hook scan" is checked in the Scan Information Window (Edit>Scan Info)
 
Last, The radio may be in scan however your PL/DPL tones may not be set properly. The radio still checks for PL/DPL tones even in scanning. The same with "Opt Signal" if you have that set up.
 
If none of the above is the problem, feel free to PM me and I'll send you my e-mail address so I can take a deeper look at the settings. I can tell you the 8180 will scan both repeater and simplex frequencies.
 

In theory it should work. The dish would simply act as one leg of the antenna much like the cookie sheet. However you may need to extend the feedline to get your mag mount up there which could reduce signal quality depending on how you do it.

Personally, I use 5/8 over 5/8 antennas as they do not require much of a ground plane. By purchasing a base 5/8 over 5/8 antenna and a good feedline you could scrap the dish and just use the 1.5" pole to mount the antenna to.

Either way, I believe you will see an increase in range. I liken it to running a portable from inside of a car vs using an external antenna. Either way you'll have improvement.

I normally use a Browning BR-450 which is a 5/8 over 5/8 5DB gain antenna, However I've heard that for mobile operations it may be better to use unity gain. The big thing is to stay away from "Phantom" or "Puck" antennas as they aren't too good for GMRS use.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Browning-BR-450-450MHz-470MHz-UHF-5dBd-Gain-Land-Mobile-NMO-Antenna/123809990994?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

you want to run Wide band for GMRS, narrow band for FRS. Setting this wrong could make your volume sound low so make sure that is set correctly first.

If you still need to make adjustments I believe you'll need to do it in test mode and likely will need a way to read the signal coming out of the radio which means you may need to visit a shop.

you want to run Wide band for GMRS, narrow band for FRS. Setting this wrong could make your volume sound low so make sure that is set correctly first.

If you still need to make adjustments I believe you'll need to do it in test mode and likely will need a way to read the signal coming out of the radio which means you may need to visit a shop.

Marc and Mike have answered your question however I'll expand on it. If you wish to disable Ignition sense, Open up the 89D software and read from the radio (you need to have the radio on for this) Click "Edit>Optional Features" A new window should open. At the bottom right there is a field labeled "Ignition sense" By unchecking the box you disable the ignition sense cable (Works by switch only.)

Marc and Mike have answered your question however I'll expand on it. If you wish to disable Ignition sense, Open up the 89D software and read from the radio (you need to have the radio on for this) Click "Edit>Optional Features" A new window should open. At the bottom right there is a field labeled "Ignition sense" By unchecking the box you disable the ignition sense cable (Works by switch only.)

Hey and Welcome to GMRS, Your MTX115 should allow you to access a repeater! The steps can be found on page 23 of the user manual,https://midlandusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/MXT115-Owners-manual-Final-24Oct16.pdf
 
Ill walk you through step by step though
 
Press the menu button to open up the menu,
Use the channel up/down buttons to find the letters rP in the menu,
Press the monitor/scan button to open the rP menu
Select on and press the monitor/scan button to accept the input.
Clear out of the menu and scroll through the channels, you should find channels 1-7, 15-22, then 15-22 with the RP icon to the right of the channel number.
 
Now we need a repeater to go into. Well pretend your using mine, the process is the same for any repeater, you just need to plug the repeater info in where my repeater info is. Ill underline and bold my info so you know what needs changing
 
I want to use the 6750 repeater pair, Looking at page 26 of the manual we see the 6750 pair is Ch 20RP. Go through the channel list until 20RP is displayed on the screen.
Most repeaters use DCS or CTCSS/PL codes to control access to the system. You should know what codes you need to access the repeater you plan to use. Mine happens to be DCS205.
Press Menu to open the menu list and scroll to Pt. Press the monitor/scan button to open the PT menu.
Select CTCSS/PL (displays a little sideways S) Or DCS (looks like a block wave symbol) We need DCS for the example so thats what we select.
Press Monitor/Scan to accept your mode. Now you can scroll through the different codes in the particular mode.
Page 27 of the manual shows the list of codes and their corresponding display number on the radio. We need the DCS chart here.
We look at the code columns first until we find code 205. The number to the left of 205 is 30. We use the channel up/down buttons and scroll until 30 is displayed, then press monitor/scan to accept.
 
At this time, you can exit the menus and you should see the following info on your display:
The channel number you wish to use, The RP icon to the right of that number, and either a sideways S or a block wave symbol.
If all of those are showing, and you entered in the correct information, you should be able to access the desired repeater.
 
If after all this you find you cant get in, I have some troubleshooting tips:
Check all the info you have is correct, and has been properly entered into the radio. Note this radio does not support split codes.
Check that the antenna is properly connected. If using a mag mount antenna be sure it is attached to a metallic surface.
Check the power settings, if your 10 miles away, low power may not work.
 
If all else fails, try another repeater or changing your location. It could be that your information is out of date or you are just too far to reach the intended repeater.
 
Hope this all helps
 
(*** Note to admins, the PL code was changed to comply with forum rules that I forgot about when origionally typing the post, Sorry for any confusion but now this is a pretend repeater)

1: Wifi works in the 2.4, 4.9, and 5 GHz band while GMRS is in the UHF (460-470 MHz) band so you shouldn't see any RF interference, however there may be electrical interference if using a cheap transformer. (This would be an audible hum over your voice as you transmit)
 
2: Midland and Baofengs are ok, (I have a Baofeng that I use as a loaner radio for family members) Personally I prefer Kenwood radios, using 380 portables and 880H mobiles. They are easy to program via computer and have a few features the baofengs and midland's don't have. Recently I started using an 8180H which has even more features on it. It all depends on what you plan to do with your radios. For me, being able to use work frequencies was the reason for upgrading to the 8180.
 
3: An antenna in the attic does work however just getting it to outside can result in a drastic increase of range. For the past two weeks my antenna was in the attic due to work being done on the roof, it got the signal out but not too far. When I returned it to outside I realized what a difference a sheet of plywood can make lol.
 
4: As Cleveland said, the traffic you are hearing could have a code or a mix of codes set up, they may also be using a repeater which could let you talk as far as 40 miles away. On top of that, GMRS repeater owners are now adding linking computers and software to their systems which can allow a user from NJ to talk via radio to a user in CA. Information about repeaters and which are linked can be found on the MyGMRS.com site
 
5: See Cleveland answer Even though I started out as a ham, this site, this community even, has helped teach me so much. When there's a problem I have never seen a group come together to try and figure it out then wait to see if their answer resolved that problem like they do here. This is a great group of guys and gals from all walks of life with experience from the amateur radio community, emergency radio community, and even professional radio techs, so there are no shortages of answers to your questions.

The 49D software is rather straight forward. hook the cable up, install the software and run. You need to read from the radio (Make sure your com port settings are correct) then you'll have a screen where you can start entering channel information and stuff. Remember for repeater frequencies, the 462 frequency goes under receive, and the 467 goes under transmit. You have a choice of CTCSS (PL) or DCS (N and I) tones. Just enter the info in, keep everything wide band and you should be good.

1: Wifi works in the 2.4, 4.9, and 5 GHz band while GMRS is in the UHF (460-470 MHz) band so you shouldn't see any RF interference, however there may be electrical interference if using a cheap transformer. (This would be an audible hum over your voice as you transmit)
 
2: Midland and Baofengs are ok, (I have a Baofeng that I use as a loaner radio for family members) Personally I prefer Kenwood radios, using 380 portables and 880H mobiles. They are easy to program via computer and have a few features the baofengs and midland's don't have. Recently I started using an 8180H which has even more features on it. It all depends on what you plan to do with your radios. For me, being able to use work frequencies was the reason for upgrading to the 8180.
 
3: An antenna in the attic does work however just getting it to outside can result in a drastic increase of range. For the past two weeks my antenna was in the attic due to work being done on the roof, it got the signal out but not too far. When I returned it to outside I realized what a difference a sheet of plywood can make lol.
 
4: As Cleveland said, the traffic you are hearing could have a code or a mix of codes set up, they may also be using a repeater which could let you talk as far as 40 miles away. On top of that, GMRS repeater owners are now adding linking computers and software to their systems which can allow a user from NJ to talk via radio to a user in CA. Information about repeaters and which are linked can be found on the MyGMRS.com site
 
5: See Cleveland answer Even though I started out as a ham, this site, this community even, has helped teach me so much. When there's a problem I have never seen a group come together to try and figure it out then wait to see if their answer resolved that problem like they do here. This is a great group of guys and gals from all walks of life with experience from the amateur radio community, emergency radio community, and even professional radio techs, so there are no shortages of answers to your questions.

Its the duplexer. I have an antenna about 20 feet up and had the same issue until I replaced the duplexer. Easy way to tell is to turn the repeater to low power (This is one of the things that increased range for me) If you get a little more range then you know for sure, but of course this doesnt make up for the duplexer being installed backwards, or if it is way out of tune.

As you have just started I do not know your skill level so Ill explain what the problem is:

A duplexer separates the transmitter and receiver signals, thus anything the transmitter is putting into the antenna shouldn't be able to get to the receiver. When the duplexer is damaged, out of tune, or installed improperly, the receiver can still hear local signals through general proximity and even by using the jumper as a sort of antenna. This would be why you can use the repeater when you are close up. However when you leave the signal fades away, just as it would if you placed a portable next to the repeater.

The transmitter doesn't help as its signals also overpower any other signals and causes what we call "De-sense" which is a situation where the transmitters signals are blocking any other signals from getting into the receiver. De-sense usually occurs when no or a slightly out of tune duplexer is used. It would seem from what your explaining that the RX side of the duplexer is out of tune causing your de-sense.

The other cause would be crapily built duplexers. China has flooded the market with these stupid things and I've been a victim of their lower prices. Since I upgraded to a DB BPBR duplexer I have not had an issue with de-sense.

Check to see what duplexer the seller has sent you. if you have a flat-pack (Notch type duplexer) perhaps he can upgrade you to a BPBR (Band pass/Band reject) type duplexer for a small fee. Never hurts to ask and made a world of difference for me.

1: Wifi works in the 2.4, 4.9, and 5 GHz band while GMRS is in the UHF (460-470 MHz) band so you shouldn't see any RF interference, however there may be electrical interference if using a cheap transformer. (This would be an audible hum over your voice as you transmit)
 
2: Midland and Baofengs are ok, (I have a Baofeng that I use as a loaner radio for family members) Personally I prefer Kenwood radios, using 380 portables and 880H mobiles. They are easy to program via computer and have a few features the baofengs and midland's don't have. Recently I started using an 8180H which has even more features on it. It all depends on what you plan to do with your radios. For me, being able to use work frequencies was the reason for upgrading to the 8180.
 
3: An antenna in the attic does work however just getting it to outside can result in a drastic increase of range. For the past two weeks my antenna was in the attic due to work being done on the roof, it got the signal out but not too far. When I returned it to outside I realized what a difference a sheet of plywood can make lol.
 
4: As Cleveland said, the traffic you are hearing could have a code or a mix of codes set up, they may also be using a repeater which could let you talk as far as 40 miles away. On top of that, GMRS repeater owners are now adding linking computers and software to their systems which can allow a user from NJ to talk via radio to a user in CA. Information about repeaters and which are linked can be found on the MyGMRS.com site
 
5: See Cleveland answer Even though I started out as a ham, this site, this community even, has helped teach me so much. When there's a problem I have never seen a group come together to try and figure it out then wait to see if their answer resolved that problem like they do here. This is a great group of guys and gals from all walks of life with experience from the amateur radio community, emergency radio community, and even professional radio techs, so there are no shortages of answers to your questions.

1: Wifi works in the 2.4, 4.9, and 5 GHz band while GMRS is in the UHF (460-470 MHz) band so you shouldn't see any RF interference, however there may be electrical interference if using a cheap transformer. (This would be an audible hum over your voice as you transmit)
 
2: Midland and Baofengs are ok, (I have a Baofeng that I use as a loaner radio for family members) Personally I prefer Kenwood radios, using 380 portables and 880H mobiles. They are easy to program via computer and have a few features the baofengs and midland's don't have. Recently I started using an 8180H which has even more features on it. It all depends on what you plan to do with your radios. For me, being able to use work frequencies was the reason for upgrading to the 8180.
 
3: An antenna in the attic does work however just getting it to outside can result in a drastic increase of range. For the past two weeks my antenna was in the attic due to work being done on the roof, it got the signal out but not too far. When I returned it to outside I realized what a difference a sheet of plywood can make lol.
 
4: As Cleveland said, the traffic you are hearing could have a code or a mix of codes set up, they may also be using a repeater which could let you talk as far as 40 miles away. On top of that, GMRS repeater owners are now adding linking computers and software to their systems which can allow a user from NJ to talk via radio to a user in CA. Information about repeaters and which are linked can be found on the MyGMRS.com site
 
5: See Cleveland answer Even though I started out as a ham, this site, this community even, has helped teach me so much. When there's a problem I have never seen a group come together to try and figure it out then wait to see if their answer resolved that problem like they do here. This is a great group of guys and gals from all walks of life with experience from the amateur radio community, emergency radio community, and even professional radio techs, so there are no shortages of answers to your questions.

There are quite a few radio shops in the NYC area. I personally use A&R communications which is in NJ. You can try Barry Electronics 224 W 35th St #408, New York, NY 10001 They sell ham radio and commercial LMR and such

Your first goal should be to figure out how far you need to communicate. Is it just across town, or 20 miles away? Will you be using mobiles or portables as a primary radio? Are you talking between houses or to individuals? Finally are you communicating with just family or are you looking to talk with other operators, or use it for emcomms for groups like C.E.R.T.

Some of those questions determin if you need a repeater, or if simplex operations will be sufficient. They also help you decide what equipment you may need to use.

When considering a repeater you have more questions to be answered:
Do I have a way or means to get the repeater operating properly? Do I have a place to store the repeater? Do I have the funds and skill to install, test, and maintain the repeater? What would I need to achieve my goals with a repeater?

I'll be honest, when I started with building a repeater there wasn't any in the local area. (The LEH repeater is still the only repeater in the area as the Tuckerton unit was taken down) My goal was to increase portable range from the house to talk to mobiles across town, and to be able to direct link the repeater to another repeater at a family members house allowing the family to talk as a group. Since then, I have been striving to increase range, purchasing better equipment and getting the antenna up higher. In all the LEH machine had the following costs:

RKR1225: $550
DB duplexer: $325
Feedline: $75
Lightning arrestor: $35
antenna: $175
Antenna mount: $45
Antenna mast: $75
Back-up battery: $75
Pi & RIM: $150
Cabinet: $75
Test equipment: $400 (Includes SWR meter, dummy load, exc)

In total this came out to nearly $2000 to meet my goals, and that doesn't include things like duplexer tuning, programming software (Which I had to buy a dedicated computer for) or the time needed to inspect, diagnose, and repair problems which come up.

Kenwoods 89D software does work on Windows 10 (Its how I program an 8180 I have been testing with)

neither option is a good choice.

I started out with a cheap e-bay duplexer (Around $125 if I recall) and it never worked. I was lucky to get two blocks range. Turns out the TX side wasn't being blocked by the duplexer, and instead, the RX side was loaded with desense, causing the repeater to not "See" the incoming traffic.

You'r better off researching Band Pass / Band Reject (BP/BR) duplexers and purchasing one when it becomes available within your price range. I spent about $300 for mine and it drastically improved the range of the repeater. Now my only obstacle is height!
 
You can run two antennas however you will need enough vertical separation, about 30-40 feet worth, to avoid desense and damage to the RX radio.

no, thats what we call a "Whacker" lol

no, thats what we call a "Whacker" lol

Not all base antennas can be secured to a 3/4" pipe though. And depending on the antenna they use, the 3/4" could bend in higher winds which is why my go-to is 1-1.5" 1/8" thick galvanized pipe. Its heavy, but it works and lasts.