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Oh man... A lot of people are going to shart-themselves when the reality that the FCCs makes their info public and easily accessible to anyone that has their callsign starts to sink-in...

For comparison you could look at one of the pre-programmed repeater channels 23-30 You could key up and if you have it wrong it wont matter/wont hurt anything On a GMRS repeater if the frequency given is 462.xx then it will always be +5 It looks like you haven't added the recieve-tone, but that is optional anyway, and for a beginner/to reduce potential mistakes i would not bother with it yet It all looks right but the only way to know for sure is to try it.. and remember, if it's not right, it doesn't matter/nothing is going to break/no airplanes will drop from the sky.

If only someone would make a very simple to understand youtube video explaining this all in very simple terms that anyone could understand, while at the same time using very easy-to-understand hand-gestures.. Whoever could achieve that would literally become the queen of all that is GMRS!

Weird…

It was already extremely easy.. It would be harder for me to find someone by callsign on that map that it would be to find someone by callsign on the FCC website. Your argument does not stand up to scrutiny and is therefore, invalid.

Read your installation manual. Some manufactures require the ground be grounded to the chassis and not directly to the battery. Those same manfacturers state run the hot/positive lead only directly to the battery.

Good one! The funny part is that its like you dont realize that you put yourself on that list and all that information that you gave to the FCCs such as your home-address is tied to your GMRS callsign, and was already on Google, Facebook, and probably a lot of other places..

It depends on how you define "best" ... I connected mine via my SPOD switch system. For me this was "best" because it was much easier and the wire-runs were shorter and already established.

The repeater group in our area has been doing this while conducting Simplex excursuses the plotting who can hear who and rough signal strength. I suppose in-case SHTF, we would know who's locally available to contact. The map is pretty interesting.

I agree and recommend the same to anyone having trouble with this company, (or any company).. For recurring payments via PayPal you dont even need to close the PayPal account, you can simply "end" the recurring payments.

Lots of Motorola/Kenwood/Hytera comments... I'm sure I will be happy with the Wouxun, but I'm also sure it won't be my only or last mobile.

For less than $350 you can get a Motorola XTL5000 UHF Dashmount radio with 1,000 channels, programming cable, windows CPS software, microphone, and speaker which is a lot better radio in more ways then one as compared to a Hytera. Also, I wouldn't pass on a comparable model Kenwood.

I had to stop there.

For antennas the simple answer is always “Try it.” It might work.

I say go for it since you have plenty of coax and a 6 foot pipe already. An extra 5 feet might not make much difference or it could help out quite a bit. You won't know without trying.

Actually it depends on the type of terrain, foliage, structures that one is operating their radios in. In flat/open areas a higher gain antenna is better. A lower gain antenna will work better in hilly areas or areas with lots of obstructions. I have a mixture of everything around me here in Mid Missouri so I run a Nagoya UT-72G which has about 3 dBd of gain. It works well for the most part. Now I do run a high gain antenna at home mounted up on my roof.

The only other option is to give a fake address, but that violates the rules so either Ham Registry or a PO box are the only FCC-acceptable ways to keep your address private.

This is exactly why you need a P.O. Box or Ham Registry etc. I do believe (might be mistaken) the FCC web site specifically tells you that your address etc is public, it is your job on how you go about that privacy (I would think ).

Direct to the battery with fuses is widely spoken of as very effective, because it's most likely the cleanest power you'll get. Some radio manufacturers put fuses on both the positive and negative leads as well, rather than just one. Putting a switch in the curcuit is a good idea so you can completely remove power from the radio. Some radios draw current even when they're turned off. I found this out when my QYT KT8900 killed my go box AGM battery in about a week, so far down it wouldn't charge. I also have an inline filter that I built. I've included the link below. It filters out almost all alternator noise. http://www.sanantoniohams.org/tips/whine.htm

Everyone keeps forgetting about the ICOM IC-2730A w/MARS mod. Great 50W mobile. One caveat is accessories are extra.

At the bottom of the listing it has this note - not sure if it matters here but for that repeater it says: " For all to enjoy. Have Fun and Be Respectful We will be adding Traveler Tones (141.3) " Make a duplicate channel and try it with those tones. Won't hurt to try.

You’re not gonna insult him and call him a shill for Baofeng? I was so looking forward to another drunken goat rope….

Obviously "the best" is the UV-5R because it cost only $18. as you can see, it depends on how you define "best" and what is important to you in a radio - so only you can answer the question.

I'm basically a Kenwood guy. I collect mostly HT's. I get most of my radios off of eBay. One has to be a real bargain hunter to avoid over paying. I'm on the look out for a super good deal on some NX-1200DVK2 radios. I want to pay significantly under $200 per unit. Last radio I got was an almost new NX-1300DUK5 with battery pack and antenna for $175. The seller was asking originally $280. https://forums.mygmrs.com/gallery/image/290-nx-1300duk5/?context=new All thought not Part 95 certified the 400 to 470 band split make nice radios for the Ham 70cm band and will work on GMRS using FM wide band only. My main GMRS HT is the TK-3170 which is Part 95 certified. This is my usual carry radio when I'm out and about. You can find these on eBay for reasonable prices if you shop for a while. Using a cheap 1/4 wave magnet mount it does a good job hitting local wide area coverage repeaters. It has enough range on the PLL to work down into the Ham 70cm band to access the local repeaters there as well. https://forums.mygmrs.com/gallery/image/263-tk-3170jpg/ https://forums.mygmrs.com/gallery/image/338-cheap-14-wave-gmrs-antenna/

I don't think you'll find a better radio for GMRS than a KG1000, unless you go in Pirate mode and go with a Motorola, Kenwood or Hytera..

You’re responding to a nearly 3 year old thread, but here’s another thread that might help your understanding:

An expanded metal rack makes a pretty good ground plain for the Comet 2x4SR antenna. Here is a photo of the rear rack on my Honda Pioneer 500. I have the antenna set in the center of the rack. Here is a phot of the rack before installing the antenna.

If people don’t buy first generation there often aren’t second generations.

This is just an "I think", based on owning a couple... from what I see, the Amateur Radio and the GMRS radio are the exact same radio, in every way, shape and form. What distinguishes the GMRS radio from the Amateur Radio is the stickers, labeling and what firmware is loaded at the time of sale from the manufacturer. Again, making assumptions based on past experience owning some of these, the firmware for all versions of the radio are likely stored in a controller memory. Because each radio is identical, all 3 versions of the firmware are stored. There is a BIOS (Basic In/Out System) that is independent of the firmware loaded. The BIOS will look at the boot options and see if there is a command to go to a boot menu or load the stored data in the EPROM (aka ROC/Radio On a Chip). If there is no indication to load the boot menu, the BIOS loads the current radio configuration, memories, restrictions, etc.. If there is an option selected to load the boot menu, the BIOS will load the menu. Depending on what you pick, if anything at all. the bios will flash the EPROM with the firmware stored on the controller memory and then reboot, loading the new operational state. This is why all of your saved memories and settings gets wiped when you change modes/types. Just to recap what I mentioned before, in Ham mode, it only allows transmitting on ham frequencies. On GMRS mode, you can only transmit on the pre-programmed GMRS frequencies stored in a memory channel. In normal mode, you can transmit on every frequency from 136 MHz to 520 MHz.

The new TYT TH-9800 and TH-7800 can still be unlocked. They are good amateur band radios for the price. The downside is they are susceptible to RFI if ran near HF radios. The Wouxun KG-1000G on the other hand is does not have the RFI issues. Plus it is a Part 95 certified radio for those that care about that stuff. I run a TYT TH-7800 and a Wouxun KG-1000G side by side with my Yaesu FTDX10 a few feet away. The TH-7800 picks up interference from the FTDX10 while the KG-1000G does not. I mention this because the KG-1000G will do better in RFI and EMI noisy areas.

I love my TYT TH9800. Great radio for the money. However, rumor has it that the 2021 and newer models are locked down and will not TX on GMRS and MURS frequencies among others. You'd have to find a seller with new "old stock" pre 2021 build dates to actually get a good one. I bought mine 9-10 years ago and it came unlocked. Hate to see you buy one and get hosed with a frequency locked unit. If you're on a budget, these radios are worth the price, and aren't restricted at all. Small too. Barely bigger than a deck of cards. I own a few of them, work well for what they are, but do have some of same quirks other cheaper units do. Here's some reviews.

Here’s what another vendor says: Wouxun KG-1000G Plus Features 30 GMRS Channels 8 Built-In GMRS Repeater Channels 999 Custom Memory Channels 50-53.995 MHz Receive Only Frequencies (6m) 108-179.995 MHz Receive Only VHF Frequencies 320-349.995 MHz Receive Only Frequencies 400-479.995 MHz Receive Only UHF Frequencies (70cm) 700-985 MHz Receive Only Frequencies AM 108-136MHz (RX) Built-in NOAA Weather Channels https://www.buytwowayradios.com/wouxun-kg-1000g-plus.html

I will throw my 2 pennies worth in, I have been around radios for many years. But I am new to GMRS, I debated for a while on what radio to get and I decided to get the Wouxun 1000g+ and I have been super happy with it. I have other radios for 2meter/70cm use as well as HF radios. I just believe that the radio should and would perform best for what it is designed for. The KG1000G+ will receive all the frequencies but only transmits on the GMRS freqs. Just get on the Buytwowayradio site and list to be notified when in stock, but check everyday. That is what I did and grabbed mine as soon as I saw it available. It is a great radio, I don't think you can go wrong with it.

The 980P is CHIRP-able. The radio can be configured to xmt/rcv on GMRS, but it is not Part 95 compliant. The 980P is a good radio, but if GMRS is as far as you are going to go, then go for the 1000G Plus when it becomes available.

"uplink" = TRANSMIT any "D" tone = DCS/DTC/DPL So just select DCS/DTC tone D423 from the Transmit Tone menu whilst on the correct repeater channel, save it, and you're done. Should take no more than 15 seconds start to finish. PRO TIP! -- The numbers of CTCSS and DCS tones do not overlap, so if you ever aren't sure, just scroll through both menu options until you see the number you are looking for - it will only be in EITHER DTC or CTC, never both.

666 - Mark of the Beast 911 - Terrorist Attack 322 - Skull & Bones Society 111 - Your latest RST report

Not that the 97s would provide more power, but that the transmit and receive filters in the duplexer wouldn’t have as much effect on each other and there would be less losses in the duplexer. But if you did that none of the radios with preprogrammed repeater channels would be able to use your repeater. Besides, if you look at 2 meter repeaters, you’ll see that the transmit and receive frequencies are only 0.6 MHz offset. The duplexer in the RT97s isn’t necessarily designed for the lowest loss. If you really want more power get a more powerful repeater in the first place.

It depends on the type of equipment you have. I grabbed one of these for my RT-97, built a little custom cable with DB-9s on both ends and some cat5 to make the pinouts match up and it works like a champ. https://www.repeater-builder.com/products/usb-rim-lite.html

Hi Rich, I placed an order today for an RT97S and the link SD card. I have a Raspberry Pi 3. What else is needed to connect the repeater to my network? I suspect a db9 connector cable between the pi and repeater, power for the pi...appreciate you feedback...especially if these items are available from you. Cheers! Glenn WRMA779

On that note: I really need help in creating/developing an idea...Need pictures, sketches, links to pictures etc for how I can place a home base antenna so that I can then attach a Retevis RT97 repeater. I would later do something like @OffRoaderX did with his dual KG1000G setup, but I just don't have that budget yet. I figure that as long as I have the home base antenna, I can always switch repeater systems. I don't have a big budget, I just want an antenna system that I can put up on my own and is not obtrusively ugly looking (aesthetics) is a big topic for the neighbors. I will take any tips, ideas that you all can provide. Thank you!

Rich, Would the external repeater interface allow an automatic ID to be added?

First you must have an understanding of how one repeater works. GMRS repeaters are always setup in frequency pairs. For example, they transmit on 462.675 and they receive exactly 5mhz UP. So in this case they receive YOUR transmission on 467.675. (Think of 2 radios with one receiving transmissions and the other transmitting them,) You have to set your radio up (either through software programming or through front panel offset option) so that you are on 462.675listening to the repeater BUT, when you push the transmit button you transmit on 467.675. You should physically see your radio change to 467.675 when you push transmit. There is one more thing called a PL tone. Consider it the super secret entry code. When YOU transmit (on 467.675) the repeater checks your signal for the correct PL tone. So lets say the PL tone is 141.3 Mhz you would need to have that programmed in your radio. If the repeater hears that sub audible tone then it WILL re-transmit your message on 462.675 for others to hear. If it does NOT hear the proper PL tone it will ignore your transmission and no one will hear you. That's what needs to be happening but the "how" will depend on each radio. The radios's owners manual will ALWAYS have the answers on how to accomplish this.

Here is a general video on the subject within the context of ham radio. You may find it informative. Michael WRHS965 KE8PLM

Rich, I'm getting 8 watts output on my RT-97. My frequency pair is 447.975/442.975.

It's a 10W transmitter but by the time the signal is passed through the notch duplexer inside, the output is 5W. Because of this, we market these as 5W repeaters and that's the power the FCC has certified them at. If the transmit and receive frequencies were further apart than 5 MHz, the duplexer would not have as much loss and you'd see something closer to 10W.

Well, I know the rim-lite/rim-lite RM is designed for 1225 series radios as that is what I use on both the RKR1225 and GR1225. It simply plugs into the 16 pin accessory port on the radio. (You will need to open the case to access the unit inside. The 16 pin port is near the TX antenna out port.) I recommend running the USB cable out from the case so you can have better access to the pi setup, it also helps keep the pi cool this way. For the 7000, there is an accessory port on the back that you would hook up to, however I don't have any experience with this repeater and wouldn't be able to get into the technical discussions of its connections. Luckily, we have places like Repeater Builder which give us access to information like this: http://www.repeater-builder.com/yvs/vxr-7000-cat300dx.html and this: http://www.repeater-builder.com/cat-auto/cat-notes/note_11.pdf which may help

Rich, put me down for one of these as soon as they are available

That's not us who replied, that's a different network that we have zero affiliation with. I think that's a pretty funny response! We can provide support but it's not a 100% plug-n-play operation. Since it's a Linux system, you'll need to know how to edit the configuration files to customize the node and set the audio levels. Generally speaking, once you set it up it's a hands-off thing. We just can't customize it to each and every repeater combination out there. We're going to offer a new version of the Retevis RT97 repeater with the linking bundle preconfigured for that in the near future, we're just waiting on the FCC certification and we'll begin placing orders for them. However, this is only a 5W repeater so it may not be for everyone's use case.

I'm not sure who told you that, but it's incorrect. We sell linking bundles that include almost everything you need to get onto our network: https://shop.mygmrs.com/collections/repeaters-and-accessories/products/repeater-linking-bundle The network is alive and well, growing every day: https://network.mygmrs.com/map