kipandlee

Welcome to the forum

DB408 is my go to antenna for a tower site. I do run some DB404 but the 408 has a bit more gain. In NY winters they have lasted for years.

Repeaters require "high site" locations. High site means mountain top, highest building or tallest tower in the area. On mountain tops, lower gain antennas work better as they are more omnidirectional. As the gain goes up, the antenna pattern starts to resemble a donut more than a slightly squished ball. This increases the radiation pattern more to the horizon rather than filling gaps nearer the antenna. That said, an omni rather than a beam type antenna is what you are looking for. There are several designs that meet this requirement from vertical whip types to vertical poles with multiple folded dipole antennas attached. Your wallet will be a big deciding factor on which antenna you install.

Hey everyone, we've been trying to get Chirp integrated with myGMRS for a while but the problem has been a lack of interest, according to the creator of Chirp. There's now a request for integration but we could use your help to prove there's interest out there. 
Please post a comment in support of the feature: https://chirp.danplanet.com/issues/9169
Thanks!

Fair bit of questions here.
 
Tuning is done through the KPG software for the radio, HOWEVER, I would not attempt to retune a radio without the proper meters and equipment and a surecom 102 isn't the best to meter for perfection. One thing I do question is, have you tested the meter against a known source? I do use a surecom meter myself for quick checks, and I recall that I had to tune the meter before I could use it. It took a few trys however I did get it to be close enough for what I do. IF you choose to do this yourself with cheap equipment, I am not to be responsible for damage or rule violations.
 
You will need a length of coax about 1.5 times the frequency wavelength, (9 or 18 inches should work) the meter, a 50 ohm 100W dummy load able to support the frequency you are tuning for, radio, power supply, programming cable and computer with KPG49D software.

Set up the radio and power supply, connect the coax from the radios antenna port to the "Input" side of the meter, and connect the dummy load to the "Output" side. Connect the programming cable, and turn the radio and computer on.

Open the 49D software and do a read from the radio.

Click "Edit>Test frequency"
 
Enter in several frequency sets, You should have the lowest frequency you plan to transmit on, the highest frequency, and a frequency somewhere close to middle between your high and low frequencys.
 
Save the file, and write to the radio. Once written, click "Program>Test Mode"
 
Select the center frequency (likely to give you the best results for your usage "band")
 
Double click "RF High Power"
 
Take a note of the current value, Just in case you make a mistake, you're able to return to this number and start again.
 
Use the left and right arrow to adjust the value in the new window. Make small adjustments and click "TX" Get a reading and click "TX" again to stop transmitting. Keep making adjustments until you reach about 40W (This unit is rated at 40W output to my knowledge) You can run slightly low, however to protect the radio, I wouldn't tune above 40W.

Once complete click "OK" to exit to the test mode window.

Select the lower frequency and go back into RF High Power, DO NOT MAKE CHANGES, Simple click TX and take a reading, and do the same for the High frequency. Note, Both frequencies will be BELOW the 40W output. This is NORMAL as long as they aren't super low.
 
When complete, click "Close" in the test mode window, and your radio should reboot.
 
For low power, I don't believe that radio can go much further than 20W low power without causing damage to the radio, and for frequency alignment and getting into the 70CM band you would likely do better taking the radio to a shop and having a pro do it for $50. This will void the part 95 certification, however at least there is less risk of transmitting way off frequency by accident. I would also advise against any physical adjustments on the radios boards as a 1/4 turn on the wrong pot will fry your radio, your station, or worse, could cause a fire. Again, most shops can preform this service at a reasonable price for you.

The best answer is depends. Higher power doesn't always mean better coverage/distance. One of the biggest problems with FRS is the antenna on the individual radio. You can't change it to use a better/longer one. The radio and its antenna are fixed by FCC rule. Your better choice is GMRS radios with mag mount antennas. Those not licensed for GMRS would be restricted to the FRS channels. Their using GMRS capable radios is a grey area because GMRS radios do have more output power on FRS channels and removeable antennas. The other option is MURS, a VHF service limited to 2W but because its lower frequency it will have a marginally better range than the UHF GMRS/FRS units.

Just to make sure you understand... all repeaters are privately owned and it is up to the owner to decide if, who and how people get access.  Some may be “wide open” with no permission required, while others may indeed be private and only for the use of a family or small group of friends.  So, when asking for permission, which is fine and proper, just keep in mind that the owner is under no obligation to even respond to your request.  Though, it would be nice for them to at least send a note back saying, “no, but thanks for asking.” They do not have to.

Define inexpensive.  In all honesty, you should expect to pay a minimum of $500 to get things up and running.  It is not just the radio. You need all of the following:
Repeater (receiver + transmitter and power supply) duplexer duplexer tuning antenna, mast or support, and coax location The Retevis RT97 sells for $400 (plus tax if applicable). But, you'd still need an antenna, coax, etc.  They have a package deal: repeater, coax and antenna, for $475 (plus tax).

Your better off using the KPG software, Check your PM's, I'll be messaging shortly.

Please, lets leave politics out of this.

if you don't have it, the manual is here: https://midlandusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/MXT275-Owners-Manual.pdf
out of the box, you probably have to enable the repeater channels in the menu (look for option 'rp' and set it to 'on').
 
next, pick the repeater you want to access, note the frequency and tone, and figure out which channel it equates to. (pg 27 has a chart of channel to frequencies).  switch to that channel, then back into the menu, and you have to set the tones. page 28 has the code charts; see what code the tone equates to, and set it in the menu.  from there, you should be set on the basics.

If you look hard enough you will find what you are looking for.
I'm not saying you can find it on pirate bay uploaded by Uled Robert15987 anything like that.
 
 

Hi Jerry,
 
I own the Fort Pierce repeater which covers the Port St. Lucie area very well and with a good base station you should be able to get to West Palm Beach.
 
For your house, you would need a UHF base station antenna outside as high as you can practically get it (ideally on your roof if that's possible). Elevation is the key to getting better range. For a base radio, you can use a mobile radio and a power supply hooked up to the antenna. Some form of lightning protection for the coax that comes from the antenna is advised, especially in Florida. There are Polyphaser surge suppressors that you can buy which will protect the radio from a surge in the coax caused by a nearby strike.
 
For your mother's house, depending on where she's located she might be able to use a handheld radio which would be good for mobility, but you'd have to try it out and see.
 
I'm not sure if you have a GMRS license yet, but a license would cover yourself plus your immediate family members which includes your mother, so there's only once license to purchase from the FCC. Once you have a license you can register for the main myGMRS.com website and you'll see the frequency and PL tone information needed to program your radios to the Fort Pierce repeater, and you can try it out.
 
I actually put up this repeater for my elderly aunt and uncle who live on the island. Their cell service isn't great and they have become stubborn and don't like to evacuate when there's a hurricane. I wanted a way to reach them by radio, or a way for them to call others for help if they ever need to. I live in NJ so I have linked that repeater over the Internet which allows me to talk to them when I'm not in the area.

Practice what you will use. Use what you practiced.
 
Even if people would be allowed to use the radio in an emergency, they will not have had any practice.
GMRS is fine for the technology (in spite of what some hams will tell you). You just have to manage the licensing. And, now that it is $3.50 a year....

There is a MARS/CAP mod. YMMV
 
http://www.hampedia.net/yaesu/ft-60r-modifications-extended-transmit.php

Me personally, I think the restrictions of type certified radios for free/public (not business or government) is completely stupid. I feel like most people don't know what is what and can easily end up breaking the rules by mistake.
 
The truth is, I believe that while most ham radios are pretty cheap in quality, they are way better than any new part 95 product on the market today. Many of them are more than capable of performing inside the restrictions of GMRS. People should be allow to use them.
 
That said, if someone is using one for GMRS, I couldn't care less, but I wouldn't go on the internet putting in writing that you are doing it and if someone asks me for advice in the forum, there's going to be a "by the book" response from me.

I'm in agreement about doing our best to at least make people aware of the "proper" route.
 
My jaded side says at least a little bit of the certification requirement for gmrs vs ham is money-based, both in the cost of certification and licenses (similar to my thoughts on CARB certification for auto parts...)
 
That said, probably a big part of it is the amount of knowledge required for a ham license, vs gmrs being pay the fee and here's your license. This allows ham stuff to be a lot more open, as you're more expected to know where you can and can't operate, where gmrs stuff is locked down almost to the level of the lowest common denominator, so the bubble pack buyers can just grab something and go without much research or background, without the possibility of running over their local public safety frequencies (this way, their oversight can be complaint-driven, rather than having to devote staff to actively policing)

Don't assume the coverage shown on the map display in My GMRS is accurate. It's a generalization based on assumptions such a antenna height, efficiency and generally flat terrain. Software that uses more accurate Longley-Rice propagation models are very expensive and those do include terrain modeling showing coverage holes used by hills and ridges.

First, I'm sorry if this comes off as cross, however the way you had typed and worded this message promotes the air of "I want it therefore it should be given to me" type of attitude, which to many repeater owners, translates to abuse of equipment they paid for and maintain. Everyone has a gripe, its discussion of the concern or issue in an adult manor that brings some form of resolution or at very least a little more respect for you as a person.
 
Now second, if you have read the FCC rules that you agreed to, you will find the following:
 
47 CFR 95.1705 (D) Individual Licensee Duties, The holder of an individual license:
(2) May allow any person to use (i.e., benefit from the operation of) its GMRS repeater, or alternatively, may limit the use of its GMRS repeater to specific persons;
(3) May disallow the use of its GMRS repeater by specific persons as may be necessary to carry out its responsibilities under this section.
 
Another words, as a repeater owner, I have the authority to refuse access to users who fail to follow FCC rules, or fail to follow rules I have set for the use of the repeater (Including collection of any club fees associated with maintaining said repeater/repeaters) or if you conduct yourself in a way that may be harmful or interfering of any communications through said repeater. I have banned people for prolonged "key up" times where they were intentionally jamming the repeater in hopes of damaging the unit. I also banned a user who tried to tell me I had to pay him for the use of the repeater I had bought and set up.
 
This means that when you contact the FCC, they will likely ignore you, or if you do get a response, it'll likely be "The system owner has legal authority to restrict the systems use to specific individuals."

No offense, but no one is stopping you from using the service you paid to use, all 22 channels of it. They absolutely do have the option of deciding who uses their equipment (repeaters) though, for whatever valid or silly reason they may have.
 
It was a harsh realization for me too, but gmrs isn't a hobbyist oriented service, it's primarily aimed at families and groups having comms within their groups with minimal technical knowledge needed, and outside this bubble we have here, it's pretty much how most people use it, as a utility among their group, and stick to their group....which means they'll generally have their tones set not to hear outsiders.
 
I've had a total of one contact so far, as there's basically almost no hobbyist traffic here either. Also recently got booted from a gmrs group on Facebook, because one of their "instant ban" rules is no mention of other radio services (ham, cb, Murs, etc); guess I slipped and forgot which group I was replying to and supplied some info about online testing availability for ham tickets (in addition to that one, I'm in a couple gmrs groups and few ham groups as well).

Ham Radio ≠ GMRS
 
Different in many ways: equipment authorization, power and features; history; community; user licensing; purpose; expandability; commercial support; etc. etc.
 
You simply cannot, and, IMO should not, try to compare the two. And, even if you try what is the point?

That comment added nothing to your post. And further, what is the point of bringing up your personal opinion about something that has nothing to do with GMRS radio to begin with. This forum tends to work a lot better when people stay on topic.

Glad I could help.
 
Much like I told another person to leave the "Americans think they are the world" comments out of their posts, I have to agree with Berkinet on his assestment. I think I speak for most people here when I say "nobody here has had a good time during this whole situation..."  However, stating that something is over-hyped might not sit well with a random person who reads the post and has had a relative, or dear one die b/c of it. I am pretty certain the situation is not over-hyped for that person.
 
Again, please forgive me if you feel I am trying to overstep on your 1st Amendment, I am not, and you're free to say whatever you want, however, always remember that whatever you say will always have consequences... and especially so in written form. (and I know that well) 
 
Cheers!
 
G.

I agree with your comment about accepting responsibility for the consequences of our words [and actions] while keeping in mind the 1st amendment to the US Constitution applies specifically to the government:
Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the Government for a redress of grievances.
 
Courts have held the term Congress to apply to government in general. However, private enterprises and citizens are not bound by this amendment. So, whatever freedom of expression we have on this forum is limited to that which the owners and operators allow us.  Fortunately, on this forum we have been given a fairly broad latitude in this respect. However, along with that privilege of expression comes the responsibility to use it thoughtfully and not abuse it.

What your thinking of is *way* more trouble than it's worth. If you were to do this - the best you could do is one of those lithium "jump-start" thingies you can get at Harbor Freight. But, you'll quickly run it down..
 
My best advice is to just wire the positive lead directly to the car battery, and the negative lead to the closest chassis ground you can find. It's a little more effort, but well worth it.