Riktar

That should not be a problem since I have a specific set of mixed (repeater and simplex) channels that I seldom change. The ability to set volume control for either speaker is paramount to this project.

In the Astro 25 series mobiles, such as the XTL5000 remote mounts, each control head has their own speaker connection thus, each control head individually controls their respective speaker.

One draw back is that you can't change channels from the remote area, it's not really a problem for me because I use it for family communication and not really bouncing around simplex or local repeaters channels. 

So I do that very same thing with my Motorola CDM1250. They have a jack in the back that allows for a second mic and speaker. I use the low output side for the second speaker along with a set of amplified computer speaker so that I have separate volume controls. I have three base units. One at the front of the house with the unit in the leaving room with a second mic and speaker on the front porch. The second base unit is in the back of the house with the unit in the office with a second mic and speaker in our up stairs bedroom. The third unit is in the unattached garage with a second mic and speaker outside in the back yard, so no matter were you are at you can hear it and transmit back. 
 
This is the kit I use. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/120938110357?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2EZBpsHPQDa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=U2rvV5ATT8G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
This is the speakers I use. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185624807591?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=75Sw-arjSmK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=U2rvV5ATT8G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

I believe if the speaker is hooked to the head and not the deck it will allow individual volume control. Its been some time since I had a 90 series in a vehicle but our ambulances had them and we could control back to no volume while front is talking. 

I run simplex the majority of the time.  Only use a repeater when necessary.

CB turned into an RF trashcan.  I really hope that doesn't happen to GMRS. 

a commercial splitter will be at least 3db of loss so you may loose what you have now with the 5 mile range. You could get a decent omni antenna most like for the cost of the splitter. Splitting a TX antenna is not as simple as a T in between them. 
https://www.dbwave.com/pdf/medpowercombinersplitter/PAPD0200700270B.pdf
Not knowing the power level you are talking about here is a 50 watt, 3db port loss with N connector that goes for around $330.00. You can get a DB404 for a few dollars more.

Well to be honest that isn't a large price. I have installed ones that cost many times more than that in commercial applications. As with all radio services antenna systems can make or break a radio system. 1/2 watt UHF radio on a 5000' Mountain can talk alot further than a 1/2 watt radio in a valley. Antenna systems vary with costs and quality thats what gets the whole repeater debate going all the time. In the end you get what you pay for and if you have expectations of a Ferrari on a Fiero budget you will not be happy. 

Just buy two yagis, two coax cables, and an antenna switch. It still won’t be cheap but you won’t have to deal with 50% signal losses. 

I would suggest using two antennæ with an A/B switch.

I found this article with a quick Google...haven't fully digested it yet (it's deep for reading on the phone), but it looks like it has some information in the ballpark, and makes it look like the idea isn't totally out of the realm of reality.
How far apart are the two compass points?

Years back there was an interesting write up that a club did - where since they were going to have to sidemount their transmit antenna - they ended up going with a 3 sector antenna system using stacked 3dB yagi antennas, and used a phased harness to make it all work. At least, that's  how I remember it, and now I can't find it online with a weak search attempt. I do remember that it was an interesting article, wish I could find it again.

Fascinating idea! It would definitely take some advanced planning to make it practical.
I think the 1/2 mile hops that were mentioned earlier were in reference to people using bubble pack HT's.
My experience has shown 4 (Suburban) - 12 (Rural) mile simplex range between my base (TK-8180) and my mobile (TK-8180H) radios.
Now this has been achieved by listening to all the advice and experience of this forum's members as well as doing A LOT of reading on the subject.
Anyone in SE Wisconsin care to try setting something like this up?   

I have a Jackery 1500 Explorer. Under no load (I've not measured under a load) I was seeing 13.3V output. For my higher power radio (KG-1000G) I just use the AC output to my SamlexPower SEC-1235 power supply that is stable at 13.8, even under the load on H power while transmitting. Also, note, the KG-1000G has 15A fuses, the DC output on the Jackery is rated at 10A, another reason I didn't direct DC connect this radio to the Jackery.
With my smaller first radio (Midland MXT275) I regularly powered directly from the Jackery DC power with no issues while camping.

Normally you can turn the lobes without cutting the tape. It should spin 90 degree's with no issue. Last resort use Scotch 33 and you would be OK. Just wrap extra wraps on it. 

I believe one ribbon is for the KRK-10 and the other is for a front mount configuration. 

I have a TK-8180 and KRK-10.  The stock ribbon cable between the face and body was part number E37-1120-05 and has description of FLAT CABLE (30P/TX-RX).  You leave this ribbon in place and add a couple of folds when installing the KRK-10.  The kit includes a new ribbon for the face side of the kit.
Either way the description matches close the Pacparts part number 880H04-8897-72 which has description of Flex Cable (Display - Tx/Rx), that substitutes to 881H04-8116-92.  It also looks the same as the original ribbon, which has no folds originally.
The other ribbon shown in the service manual is E37-1110-05 and is called FLAT CABLE (30P/D-SUB).  That connects the 25-pin D-Sub on the back to the PCB in the body.  That description matches the other cable part number 880H04-8887-72 Flex Cable (Tx/Rx - D-Sub) that subs to 880H04-8115-72.

That or I could try threatening her with being grounded.
 
Oh wait... pretty sure my authority in that area disappeared 18 years ago.... 
 
Buttering it up it is.

That or I could try threatening her with being grounded.
 
Oh wait... pretty sure my authority in that area disappeared 18 years ago.... 
 
Buttering it up it is.

That or I could try threatening her with being grounded.
 
Oh wait... pretty sure my authority in that area disappeared 18 years ago.... 
 
Buttering it up it is.

Sounds like you have some buttering up of the new landlords. 
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I discovered something new with the MXT400. We now know you can program split tones for repeater use with a programming cable and the software out there now. The discovery is, when using the MXT400 after programming, be very careful not to hit the TS/DCS button on the front panel if you're on a repeater channel using split tones. What happens is with that button which basically toggles thru "no tone"  "CTCSS" and "DCS"  when using preprogrammed split tones. Sets the radio to either CTCSS or DCS or none. Which in effect puts either the same  DCS or CTCSS tone on both the encode and decode and negates the split tone and you have to configure the radio with the software again.
 
Ask me how I know LOL

Perhaps we are just retired and have nothing better to do.
 
By the way, get off my lawn!

I completely agree with you from the standpoint of making the decision to purchase the MXT400 on the basis of being able to overcome it's (factory) limitations. There are better radios (TK-8180 just as an example) available on the used market that can be had for 1/2 the price (possibly less) of a MXT400.
 
That being said, the information is well receieved for those who already have a MXT400 and find it not completely useable due to the lack of split tones that some repeaters use.