Extreme

Guess I could have tried restore to factory but they were quick to request it back.  Only PF1 "SCAN" not working was my issue.  It's on it's way to BTWR now.

The -1 -2 and -3 mean alignment in the UHF band. 1: 450-490MHz, 2: 485-512MHz, 3: 400-430MHz. Type -1 is 95A certified. The version V2 and no version, that is often called V1, are the versions of the hardware. For GMRS purposes they are no different.

Just a shoutout to all the people at BUY TWO WAY RADIO had a problem with my 905g .they did me right  sending me a new radio when they get in stock .Could not ask for better service from anyone .I will tell every body .

https://www.fccbulletin.com/

Actually it’s capacitive coupling. The base of the magnet mount is one side of the capacitor and the sheet metal under the paint is the other plate.
 
At times to much of a gap between the magnet mount and the sheet metal results in poor coupling and high SWR. As the frequency goes down, UHF -> VHF -> HF, the problem of poor coupling get worse. Also very thick paint coatings and adding extra padding under the magnet mount base also decreases coupling.

Whew. Done deal. Works as advertised. Programmed for area repeaters and simplex 'wheelin' channels + ham repeaters scan.- 3 zones. Clears the seat slide & I don't ford rivers so should be good. Kenwood TK-8180 with remote kit.
 
Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Laird Technologies B4505CS, been using this for a couple of yrs no complaints from HAM to T-band. was a replacement for the AS Mosaic that was stolen.

As axorlov mentioned the Kenwood TK-2170/3170/3173 radios have a table for 40 tone entries so those aren't much of a problem. The radios do offer "Operator Selectable Tone (OST)" you can assign the function to one of the PF keys on the radio. This allows you to select one of the pre-stored tones in the tone table.
 
The Kenwood TK-270G/370G, TK-2140/3140 radios have only 16 entries for the tone table. Those are of course more restricted. The radios I'm looking at to revise the code plugs are the TK-2140 and TK-3140 radios. With only the option to program in 16 tones I wanted to pick ones the are most likely to be used.
 
By the way the TK-270G, TK-2170 and TK-2140 are VHF radios while the TK-370G, TK-3140 and TK-3170/3173 are UHF.
 
And yes these radios could be programmed through the front panel, BUT you need to remove a small surface mount component off a circuit board inside in addition to enabling the function in the programming software. This is all covered in the service manuals for the radios. After looking at the very inconvenient multi button pressing while powering up the radio plus the rather cryptic multi layer menus you have to go through it really isn't worth the trouble.

Same with me. I enabled all three of my TK-880 for the front panel programming, and I used it, let me remember how many times... oh yeah, never! I do keep a printed reference card in the glovebox, just in case of apocalypse, or when I'm tooooo bored. With the handhelds TK 3170 I did not even bother to enable FPP. Too much trouble.

I must tell you all that while you may get a tad more range (perhaps 5% or so in my case) when using the longer antenna, I have found the added length to be more of an annoyance than real benefit. So I have reverted back to use of the stock antenna and the shorter 701. In my everyday carry use of my radios I found that the extra inches if range distance mattered so little in practice that the hassle of the longer antenna was not warranted. I will certainly keep it in my tool box, and I will use it on special occasions, but its days of everyday carry use are over.
 
 
Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Yes, I forgot to mention, the BR-178-S ("S" is for spring at the base, there is a version without the spring too) has a cut table, and you are supposed to cut the whip according to the frequency to fine tune the antenna. I cut according to the table and have SWR 1.7, which I find acceptable. Perfect is the enemy of good. So, in the end, the antenna will have much narrower useful bandwidth than 380-520.

I use Browning BR-178-S. Works well. I did not compare it with 1/4 wave, but I did compare it with Browning BR-170-S, which is 5/8+1/2. The 170 (longer) is marginally better in flat lands. Both 178 and 170 require ground plane, but I see you have XJ, so you're good.

There are no equipment regulations for amateur radios like there are for Part 90 and 95 radios. While the radios may in fact be better in some cases, they are not FCC certified as better. No, the radios are not allowed to interfere with others outside the amateur space, but the amateur bands are miles wider that the GMRS band. If a GMRS radio splatters a little it is more likely to adversely affect commercial licensees or public service (bad). In an amateur radio splatters a little it is most likely only going to affect other amateurs (not as bad)
 
Also two sets of rules for Amateur and GMRS. Just because you have an amateur license does not mean you know the GMRS rules and vice versus.
 
Many out there choose to disregard the rules and do what you are asking about.
 
Also, much amateur equipment on the market is not capable of limiting the power to the GMRS limits, particularly when it comes to the 467 interstitial frequencies.
 
So there are a few reasons for you. There are others too.
 
 
Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

A dummy load is required when you want to get accurate power measurements from your power meter. A dummy load can help confirm your SWR meter is (at least partially) calibrated. A good dummy load connected to the output of the SWR meter (in place of the antenna) should cause the SWR meter to always read 1:1. If it does not, you either have a defect meter or a defective dummy load.
 
No question is a dumb question if you don’t know the answer to it.
 
 
Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

I would like the tech to back up his assertion by demonstrating to you just how much power the antenna radiates when using more feed-line than with less, all else remaining equal.
 
 
Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM

Grand Cherokees
 
WJ ‘99-‘04
WK ‘05-‘10
WK2 ‘11-‘21
WL ‘22 and up
 
We had a ZJ, a WJ and now we’re on our 2nd WK2, both with V8s and air suspension. The air let’s us jack the clearance up by 8” or so.

I tried posting pics and failed. I am not a forum newb. Hoping somebody can help me navigate this forum's needs as far as pics go.
 
Wrangler models:
 
After the CJ came the '87?-'95 YJ. Leaf sprung and weird square headlights.
 
Then came the best Jeep, the '97-'06 TJ. Coil sprung and proper round Jeep headlights. Just the right amount of modern but still stupid simple. They also made an "Unlimited" variant people unofficially call the LJ (long Jeep) which is stretched similar to the Scrambler. Also the Rubicon model had a better transfer case and locking beefier axles.
 
'07-'17? were JK's. These saw the advent of the 4 door option which has seen them explode in popularity. It also means a lot of people who would have otherwise bought an SUV to haul the kids around bought these, so a lot of earlier Jeep guys kind of look down on these. You'll see a lot more stupid low profile 24" rims or bought not built mall crawlers in these years. The JKU just means JK unlimited which is the 4 door version. JKUR = Unlimited Rubicon model JK.
 
The '18+ are JT (Jeep truck) and JL. They are nice and very expensive. I wouldn't want to scratch mine or roll it.
 
Non-Wranglers:
 
XJ is the classic Cherokee. Super dope. I love these. '87-'06?
 
ZJ is the original Grand Cherokee. These are very cool. Because v8 and you can still wheel them

On my CJ7 I screwed the metal to the roof. Did a 12x12 piece as that's what home depot had. After screwed down and hole for mount drilled I rhino lined the top. Unless you looked hard you could not see it. Sold to a buddy and he still uses it on his CJ with a GMRS antenna. I am looking to do the same on the JK top but need to find a brake to ben the ribs in a piece of metal.

Inside is fine. You could use metal window screen material, an asterisk of aluminum HVAC tape, chicken wire fencing, or any other electrically conductive material. Just make sure the ground side of the antenna mount makes good contact with the ground plane material. Probably have to use a “thick mount” NMO for a fiberglass roof. We do this all the time for ambulances, RVs, etc.

https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/2440-raptor-liner-roof-ground-plane/?fromsearch=1

Go over to radiorefetence. There’s several recent threads on installs in aluminum bodied Fords. Tons of info and experience there for the reading.

Ooops
 
I’m the owner of a couple machines in Idaho falls, and west Yellowstone,
I also have a 220 ham machine set up on one of the mountaintops,
Id like to see about helping out in twin... maybe linking sone machines up for a bigger foot print, both gmrs and ham 220.

I hope to not expire before my current license in 2027.  

Google Earth elevation profile does show the straight-line terrain between two points, but do not automatically accept that the intervening terrain depicted prevents usable comms. I live in NE WA where we have mountains and canyons. I routinely make comms using GMRS in places that it should be impossible to do so. I guess that some of this is due to signals bouncing off of the rocky terrain, going around corners and down into canyons. The only way to know for sure is to do your own signal survey in the field.

4W vs 5W - negligible difference if any at all. Performance difference will come out of receiver and transmitter details, that I can't comment on because did not see schematics, tests, etc. Antenna  is removable. Actually, they are interchangeable between 3170 and 3180. There are two types I own and I prefer longer antenna (KRA-27) on my 3170. And 3170 is not that much smaller than 3180. Maybe inch and a half shorter. If you already have a setup for 3180, cables and other accessories, it's not worth to move to 3170 in my opinion.
Being it fat bulky in-your-face radio may be a positive. To one crowd you may look like a cop, to another like a vigilante militiaman. Exploit possibilities!