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Go the the main MYGMRS.COM webpage and lookup your callsign. If the callsign has a MYGMRS username associated with it (and it should if you are a registered member) it will be displayed right below the license expiration date.

The set up I was talking about @Lscott. I am just waiting on the antenna I was having made to come in and we will be up and running. @GMRSJohn Shhhhh... @LeoG agreed.

I have a Remote set up for work in the corner of the bonus room. It already had my HH and set up ready for the base station radio. She rarely goes to my corner..... Hopefully it stays that way. lmao

Change to Tone instead of TSQL.

Stopped in less than 5 minutes of his hour long video when he said power can overcome line of sight. If you want to be taken seriously you just CANNOT tell people this.

The information is found on the University of YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsXFtMe_-Eo

Better to ask for forgiveness then permission

LMR400 is pretty good stuff.

NO! Because I have trees, so it's not fair!

Oh, brother… but when she finally does… lol!

Actually in 95.303 it is for business usage: Family Radio Service (FRS). A short-distance two-way voice communication service, with limited data applications, between low power hand-held radios, for facilitating individual, family, group, recreational and business activities. So FRS can be used for business purposes, but the limited range may render it less than usable for all scenarios... MURS is a License by Rule service. No fees, no callsigns As in 95.2703 MURS. A two-way, short distance voice or data communication service for facilitating personal or business activities of the general public.

Just got my email of repeater updates.

This will be the key ^^^ If it requires being logged in to use the search, drop your callsign in the thread, OP, and one of us can look for you. Can't remember your callsign either? FCC search to the rescue! https://wireless2.fcc.gov/UlsApp/UlsSearch/searchLicense.jsp

I just got my base station radio with the 4 payment deal on PayPal. And the wifey hasn't even noticed.

So will rebuilding the site (if he did). It appears he did a software upgrade after fighting DDOS attacks for a few days. Maybe some of the automated processes aren’t working the same.

What does “duty cycle” mean? I bring up duty cycle every time I hear somebody talking about making a repeater out of cheap Chinese mobiles and worse any type of handhelds. Duty cycle is the maximum time an amplifier may transmit within a five minute interval, expressed as a percentage, to avoid overheating. Suppose a mobile amplifier is rated at 30% duty cycle. This means that it may transmit for no longer than 1.5 minutes and must remain off for not less than 3.5 minutes. Some people forget that a repeater is transmitting for 2 or more people, duty cycle will be reached quickly if you get into conversation. More people in the conversation just amplifies the issue. Once a radio reaches it's thermal design limits it will no longer be able to adequately cool the output transistors. Even if a radio is not hot to the touch the transistors are, in part because of the inefficient transfer of heat to the units housing or internal heat sink. The longer you exceed the duty cycle the more heat builds on the transistors, surrounding electronics and heat sink effecting it's ability to remain on frequency without spurious emissions. Exceed duty cycle long enough and you will need a new transmitter or radio. I have tested a few Baofang and TYT radios on my service monitor without great results. All of the radios started deviating outside of the allotted channel bandwidth after simulated conversation at 50% duty cycle, the longer I allowed this the worse if got. Testing was done using an Aeroflex 2975 IFR recently back from the calibration lab. GMRS is a tiny sliver of spectrum surrounded by the commercial land mobile part 90 service. It is important that any repeaters that are built or re-purposed are held to the highest standards and operated as to not cause any interference inside or outside of our allocated spectrum. I wont get into the part 90/95 debate but i do stand firm that non certified import equipment has no place on GMRS.

41% with 75 feet of LMR-400. That's with bumping the Load SWR from 1.5 to 1.8. That is what I currently have, so I'm keeping it constant. I'm also considering switching from UHF to Type N Connectors.

What kind of traffic are you expecting to hear? How do you know you are transmitting just fine through the repeater? Are you hearing your transmission on another radio? Maybe there's just no one listening to the repeater.

The db20g is not accessible through Chirp.

I am a big fan of its less expensive cousin: the Radioddity DB20-G

Again I was speaking to FRS and MURS, neither service requires a license. The regs. I cited are for those two services and not GMRS.

someone might harass you - Randy

An accurate test. Let us know the result.

The answer is: Based on the FCC's enforcement record of the last 12 years, nothing will happen. Of course, that could change tomorrow, but as of today, thems is the facts.

"For business activities" does not mean BY businesses. The licensees are still required to be individuals.

Yeah I became a member a month or so ago. The forums I was having an issue with getting registered, and he just got me setup on that a few days ago as I guess there was some sort of error occurring. So I guess I'm showing as premium on the regular page but not the forums.

Sometimes I buy radios on the DL without running it by the spousal unit.. I do the purchase in PayPal “pay in 4” so the charges don’t stand out as large on the statement and I’m a ninja about grabbing that package off the porch on my way in and having the item in my pocket by the time the back door opens . Is there a help group for me?

I’ve been on both ends of this… I will ask permission

The Tids seem to be great radios for the most part. I’ve read a lot about them. There wasn’t much information nor reviews on the Alinco G46 and that made me skeptical. I knew more about the Tids than it.. but I’m glad for the most part with my choice.

I have 3 Tidradio H3’s and just added the Wouxun KG10. Love the H3's, so easy to program, easy to use and easy to clone to one another. App was nice too. Paid almost 7x with my Wouxun KG10 and though it seems to be better quality and better options, i still think the H3 holds it own. Plus if really needed to i can open up the frequencies for emergencies on the H3. IMO everyone should own an H3 for $30.

LMR 240 that I currently have has me at 4.36dB loss or 22 percent more power loss than LMR 400. Seems pretty significant to me.

Yes aluminum will work as a ground plane. You would need some actual steel somewhere for the magnetic mount to stick to. And @WRXB215 is correct, you need at least a 6" radius all the way around the antenna for a good ground plane. I actually use a 40" by 24" expanded metal cargo rack on the back of my SxS with the mag mount centered on the rack. That works just fine for me.

Thank you, very helpful!

Aluminum works but if the mount is on some king or skinny rail, it won't work as well. You need to have about 6" of surface if I remember correctly.

using chirp aswell. thanks for the help.

I will try that, fyi this is on GMRS. Does that matter?

For UF7 choose lmr240. For uf10 choose lmr400. That’s not exact, but it’s very close.

No, there are always tons of changes, I think he is lagging behind.. Holidays will get ya....

I haven't seen the update here as of yet as well..

If the radio isn't transmitting at least 1 or 2 watts, the Surecom wont see it.. Either it's not transmitting, its transmitting very low power, or as @SteveShannon said, there is a problem with the connection.

Are you certain the Anysecu is transmitting? If so then there must be a problem with the connection to the radio.

Retevis radios DO have a CTCSS code installed from the factory. That's why they state they only talk to each other but offer a CPS to change or remove the code.

Feature wise, it's not going to work for everyone If you need to program/reprogram it on the fly, no, it's not the best choice, BUT: If you need an h-t that can be set up [especially with basic/simple, or no functions/options], then handed to a non-radio user & not worry about them pressing buttons, changing settings, etc If you just want to program it, turn it on, select your channel/frequency/repeater, & start talking [Ron Popeil & his "set it & forget it!" comes to mind] For the users who need or want those scenarios, IMO the DJ-G46T fits the bill

OK, been meaning to explain this and this is a good time. The commercial guys here will all tell you there are three tests that we perform when installing a new repeater system out in the field. First test is 12dB sinad with the service monitor connected to the duplexer wit no antenna. Second test is for something called isolation. We drop the input signal down to where the repeater squelches, or stops transmitting and then increase the signal slowly until the receiver just opens back up. What we then look for is the repeater to drop again when the transmitter comes up and then drop back out. If the duplexer isn't tuned correctly, the repeater will 'ping pong' up and down because the TX frequency is getting into the receiver and deafening it to some degree. If it does start to ping pong, we increase the signal level in in TENTH's of a dBm until it stops. At that point, we usually stop the testing, touch up the duplexer tuning and run through all the tests again. The last test is antenna desense. An isolation Tee is connected to the duplexer antenna port and a dummy load is then connected to the output. The tap port has signal injected on it to the point the receiver opens and the signal level is noted. Then the signal is removed, and the dummy load is unhooked and the antenna is connected. The signal is injected again on the tap and increased to the point that the receiver opens again. The difference in the required signal level is the antenna desense for that antenna and repeater system at that site. Now, here's how that applies to what YOU are seeing. With the 12dB Sinad test, you need to understand what that measurement is. That being a ratio of signal to noise in the receiver. Here's a good explanation. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SINAD But it's NOT the minimum signal level that the repeater can hear and open up. That is actually the LAST test (antenna desense) where the signal level is just above the noise floor enough for the receiver to recognize it and hear the PL /DPL. On a repeater running CSQ, the level is going to be lower, because it doesn't need to hear the tone above the noise, just the RF. These readings are gonna be 6 to 12 dB different in their levels. And the basis of where I make the statements about needing to be able to increase signal level a BUNCH to get a noisy signal to be full quieting. It's not a watt or two, unless you are only running 1 watt or less to begin with. That's based on using dB and specifically dBm numbers for power output in place of watts. An example is 30dBm is 1 watt, 33 dBm is 2 watts, 36dBm is 4 watts. on the upper end, 50dbm is 100 watts and 53dBm is 200 watts. So when you look at it that way, and start realizing that to go from just opening a repeater receiver at -119dBm to 12 dB SINAD at -110dBm or so, that 9dB signal level change is HUGE in the percentage of power change when you convert it back to watts. And the best part is you can calculate all this if you have the information about the equipment in play. You need the antenna model (so you know the gain) the coax type and length (to calculate the cable loss) the number and type of jumpers (again cable loss) the duplexer model (insertion loss). Then you need YOUR power level in watts (converted to dBm) and your antenna system numbers as well. The last part is the distance between the antenna's to calculate something called PATH LOSS. With all that you can calculate what the actual signal is at the repeater input from your radio transmitter from miles away. And yes, I have tested this and found that it's accurate within a dB or two. The difference is from signals that bounce off other things and arrive out of phase to the antenna and cancel put part of the signal. This is called Rayleigh effect. (Again, go look it up, NOT typing it all out) but that also explains sitting in traffic and the repeater fading out. Moving 2 feet and the repeater signal coming back.

I was able to find a complete brand new still in the box a Kenwood TK780H-1 for $150. I received the radio today.

Let us know. I'll be in Uwharrie a few times this coming year. I have the annual pass on our jeeps. Need to get a 2025 one for the new jeep when they come up. For Jeep Jamborees we booked, Tennesee Mtns (Windrock) for spring, Coal Mountain in the summer and Cumberland and Uhwarrie for the fall. Most likely will do Greenbriar as well but thats 3 weekends in a row of trips. We also plan to do the SFWD events in the sping (Coalmont TN) and fall (Windrock). Be a fun summer. I know most on this forum despise midland but I just grabbed another 275 for the new jeep. With the "offroad promo code" it was $132. That made more sense than ripping the old one out of the other JK. Plus I'd like to keep the old JK anyway. Only other radio planned will be a FTM400 which I already have in a box. I had picked it up used for the other JK and never got to it. No APX in this JK...at least yet. I normally just grab my APX Next anyway now so no need for a mobile.

Well, i got the green light from the wife to build another rock crawler. This one is going to include some nice VHF/UHF comms, too. Just not sure if I'm going to stick HF in it. I feel like I won't need it, unless I'm wheeling with someone who is still running a CB. Of course, I know a few people with CBs, but no one uses them offroad. I am pretty sure I am going to install the MXT500 due to its IP rating. The Jeep won't have any roof or doors once it's done. Shoot, im not even sure if it will have a windshield when it's done. LoL Anyone aware of a different, affordable and readily available GMRS/UHF mobile radio that I should consider? IP66 or better and 20+w? This is what I picked up. 1997 Wrangler TJ. This is roughly what it will look like when its done.

Well I guess when I told wife we need to do multiple repairs on the JK she decided a new one was better...so picking up a 2018 Rubicon later this week. So instead of axles, lockers, its just radios and wrap...My kinda work for winter months !

It's your hard earned money......buy what ever you damn see fit to buy !!!!!!

I used to routinely do this with firearms.