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I received the new KG-935H yesterday and ran test on high power this morning with a fresh battery using my Surecom SW-102 and a *dummy load, here is what I got. I posted my KG-Q10H at ultra high setting results for comparison. I have not had a chance to take it out in the world as of yet. * I mention this because obviously MURS and GMRS are not type approved and MURS output is way high at these settings. This is only a test, if this had been an actual emergency you would have heard screaming KG-935H 2m - 8.8 watts 1.25m - 4.6 watts 70cm - 8.4 watts GMRS - 6.8 watts rept, 7.4 watts smpx MURS - 9.7 watts KG-Q10H 2m - 4.5 watts 1.25m - 2.9 watts 70cm - 6.5 watts 6m - 1.1 watts GMRS - 5.5 watts MURS - 4.6 watts

That's when one learns their lesson to save their work every 5 minutes. It sucks when you spend hours building a big code plug just to have it go POOF in the blink of an eye.

Who cares? I don't.

How am I supposed to be mad about things that have nothing to do with me if I IGNORE them?

Two features I wish RT Systems would implement are automatic saves and automatic versioning.

Oh, I also save ALL my prior code plug versions for a particular radio series by model type and date. Example: NX-1300DUK5_BAS15_ARC4__20241118.dat If I totally bugger up the code plug I at least have the prior one saved I can use to recover from. Normally there are only minor changes from the previous version.

Same, considering I just bought another HT, maybe 3.......

Power and gain does not defeat a terrain dead zone. Having a central located repeater on a high spot is the correct solution.

@WRUU653 and myself have tested the KG-Q10H. Our results are posted above. I tested on high power while he tested on ultra high power. We had different results due to power setting we each used. And you will see differences between radios even when on the same power setting. You can't go wrong with the 935G Plus. I've been very happy with mine.

I did 6.8 on repeater (467.625) and 7.4 pretty much across the simplex channels (take another look at my info), that said you wont go wrong with the dedicated to GMRS KG-935G. It's a good radio.

I actually was about half done with my test when I remembered the ultra high setting and started over. I don't leave very much on that high of a setting. I would rather the battery last longer and just use what I need to get the job done. But yeah the power setting is probably the thing I forget the most. At least this time I remembered to make sure the battery was 100%.

Alright, let me check on my issue. Thank you for the clarification.

Your results are similar to mine concerning the KG-Q10H. Though I tested mine on high power and not ultra high. I always forget that the Q10H has the ultra high setting. 2m - 4.43 watts 1.25m - 2 watts 70cm - 5.9 watts 6m - 1.5 watts GMRS - 3.5 watts MURS - 1.5 watts There is a definite difference from what you got on MURS and GMRS using ultra high power compared to what I got using high power. Otherwise the rest are pretty close and could be the difference between the two radios or allowed tolerances of our SureCom SW-102's

Yeh if I were starting with a fresh roof I would go that route, but the hole I drilled is 1 1/4” diameter and that is 3/4” diameter. It’d be so easy to find a 3/8x24tpi nmo male to just thread into it. I found something on digikey: maybe this will thread in…. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-pctel/BMATM338/13687616?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_Medium ROAS Categories&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20223376311_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-13687616_sig-Cj0KCQiAy8K8BhCZARIsAKJ8sfQqFauzeZ7C4QiHLgVT-V1JQq3UB6lZXeLRoMr2uko-7BG3nXeb9_caApgSEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLliIWxjmuHaZB-x47WDNoxzQ9&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy8K8BhCZARIsAKJ8sfQqFauzeZ7C4QiHLgVT-V1JQq3UB6lZXeLRoMr2uko-7BG3nXeb9_caApgSEALw_wcB

In my opinion, the best way to do it is to replace that puck with something like this, but you’ll need some kind of sealed bushing to fill the hole the puck required: https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-categories/antennas-mounts/mobile-antenna-mounts/nmo-mobile-antenna-mounts/266-permanent-hole-mounts/289-nmo-3-4-hole-mount-no-connector/1140-laird-connectivity-mb8-detail

Not really. I enjoy knowing who else is a ham. I use an alerting software when I do FT8 that watches for specific call signs. I might run into them on the air sometime. Like most aspects of life folks should simply ignore it if it doesn’t apply to them.

I think they just put it there in case you had one and wanted to share, you could fill it in. The caveat being the way the profile section is configured it shows percent complete and it seems to irk some people they can't get to 100%. The better action is to remove the percent complete business from the profile, as this isn't the first time this question has been asked.

That’s a terrible design if traffic which triggers the busy channel lockout only occurs after tone squelch.

You would need to download and use RDAC (Remote Diagnostic and Control) program in order to see the internal repeater logs. The "logging" in CPS is software validation - nothing to do with operations. It just logs changes in the software & read/write operations. If you programmed the unit with CPS 2.0 & it was originally set up using CPS 16, you probably should have updated the repeater firmware prior to 'upgrading' to CPS 2.0 Assuming you read & saved the original log - go in and look at the Codeplug & Firmware info on the original codeplug, as well as the 'last programmed' date (which should be the last time it was set up prior to you touching it.) If you've got really old firmware in the box, that may be causing you some of your issues. A basic GMRS repeater does not need half the functions available in DMR. Keep it simple. Just add a new analog channel, then delete any previous channels, and program that new Analog channel with your basic channel info. Leave CWID and any other settings off for now. I'd be a little concerned if you had to 'blow the dust off' of a unit. That makes me think the machine was in use for a while without ever being touched or upgraded. The XPR's are a fine set & forget machine in typical single user campus type applications. They're not a high end repeater designed for mountain top use at RF dense locations for 24/7 operation. They are really just 2 basic XPR mobiles in a box with some special interfacing.

Results posted here.

Yeah, lesson learned The instability is new to me, and makes RT Systems' software tempting when it shows up. I do the multiple versions as as well, radio model and date, and save new versions as i go. I do also save base code plugs before i start editing for the first time. I was working from the latest codeplug for the vx7r, and just skipping the 6m items, but in the end went the spreadsheet route; exported it all as a CSV, and installed Open Office on that computer so i can open it.

Spreadsheets are one's friend when building large codeplugs. I also save every revision as a new file, with SN, version # and date as the file name.

Ignore the scofflaws here (this forum is full of them) - you do not have to justify following the regs. (Why on earth anyone would trust a utuber joker is beyond me.) Knowing the radio is capable of more is worthwhile for emergencies, but you're right that it's best to not transmit on the extra frequencies normally.

I've been operating with a Radioddity DB20G in my truck since Christmas. I wasn't planning to make a fuss over it or type up a review or anything, because I felt like it was a pretty basic, standard, inexpensive, knock around mini-mobile GMRS radio. But after using it for these weeks, I've noticed that I just really like this radio a lot. It does all of the small things right. It may sound silly to some, but I just really appreciate that it uses a big switch on/off volume knob. For a radio that I operate in a vehicle, I appreciate it when a radio isn't "fiddly". I reach over blind, switch it on and set to a comfortable volume in one intuitive and effortless motion. The radio sits in a spot that is absolutely perfect in my truck (pictured in following post). Facing face-up below where my right arm would rest on the middle console. The speaker is powerful and can be cranked up adequately loud to hear comfortably above road noise. I also appreciate that this radio is 20 watts (and actually is) which means that it can safely be powered by a cigarette lighter plug. When you power on/unlock the radio, you have full freedom to program as many simplex and repeater channels as you'd like. I used the included bracket and some 3M hook and loop strips to make it so that I can simply pull the entire radio off to bring it inside for programming, or use it in another application. Reception is great, no breakthrough overload, and reports are that I sound nice talking on it as well. It just hits the sweet spot of preferences for me in a radio for how I want to be able to use a radio..

Please let us know how it works out. Good luck.

Well I went and ordered one. Getting it outside on the roof is going to be a bigger project than I expected so I threw it in the attic for now. Will see if it makes a difference compared to my little 2.5db antenna I had. Swr is 1.75. Dropped to 1.4ish when I held it down in the house below the attic so I'm guessing being so close to the roofing is raising the swr a little but not enough to be too worried about. Funny thing is my Ed fong antenna was a 1.05 but didn't seem to work any better (or maybe a little worde) than the cheapo amazon antenna I was running.

Good info! Just order a 935G+ since i was looking for a dedicated GMRS and the 935H only does 3.5-5.5 watts on GMRS anyway. I already have the Q10H, which i have been happy with. I should test my Q10H output, though i only have a Surecom and my regular antennas to test with.

try this

There are 3/8x24 adapters to NMO available. I've seen them but don't remember where. You may find one doing a search.

Both of those mounts that I linked have a SO 239, which allows you to use antennas with a PL-259.

Can you replace your puck mount with this (same manufacturer) and then use any antenna that uses a UHF mount? https://www.icamanufacturing.com/shop/p/fatboy-puck-3-antenna-mount Or perhaps this would make better sense and allow you to adapt your existing system to something more widely used: https://www.icamanufacturing.com/shop/p/so-239-hardware-mount

I will be interested in a side by side comparison in TX and RX. The 935G+ is my favorite GMRS radio and my Q10H has taken over as my goto HAM HT. I purchased the Q10H one month before they came out with the 935H.

Yeah, one of the values of a properly designed busy channel lockout is to prevent interfering with transmissions you might not hear because of tone squelch. This design completely fails.

Either they changed something, or yours is broken (or something else is preventing transmission). I have 4 that I just tested, all of them will Tx with the keypad lock *on*. Both when I lock it manually, and when I let it auto-lock.

UPDATE: TWEISS3, turns out after racking my head over this issue for a week. I had the RX/TX frequencies backwards. UGH!!!! I switched to digital mode and plugged in some frequencies, it worked. Went back to analog and sure enough I had my RX/TX freq's backwards. Felt like and idiot for a hot second. Guess it pays off to stop looking at numbers for a few days before tackling it again. Thank for the help anyway!

I've read about that. But the frequencies are incompatible with services in the US. I can picture people trying to use those frequencies, radios, here and the "interesting" results that will cause.

Lightning is capable of jumping the gap from the earth to the sky. The gap in a burned fuse would just be ionized fuse metal and highly conductive. Watch a lineman open a switch under load sometime and you’ll immediately understand why fuses can’t interrupt lightning. The contacts would have to operate fast, open far, and something would need to quench the arc. However, I’ve heard there are lightning arresters that incorporate inductors to present greater impedance to the rapid onset of voltage along the center conductor of coax. I don’t know anything more about them. When I heard about them I thought I needed to follow up but I didn’t. Sorry.

It sounds like what you have is good if I'm understanding it. You don't want to fuse a ground because if energy can't go to the ground it will go somewhere and that may not be where you want it to go. Side story to illustrate this is people using surge suppressing plug strips and plugging them into an older non grounded outlet. The plug strip suppression goes to ground when it sees a surge and if the ground is not there the energy has to go somewhere and I have personally witnessed these plug strips having caught fire in a non grounded situation. Like @SteveShannon said electricity will take the path of least resistance which is why we want to help it go somewhere safer. I have a surge suppressor for my service panel as well as plugs throughout the house for the very reason that what may not be fully captured by one can be captured by another down stream.

When it comes right down to it, price and size both matter. The Comet antennas will both have similar build quality, but the size of the Comet CA-712EFC results in better performance and higher price. It’s also higher gain, which should not be confused with better performance, but should be considered more focused. If the stations you wish to contact are more or less horizontally aligned with your station, contacts with them will be easier, but if they’re vastly different in elevation (angularity) horizontal gain might actually result in less signal reaching them or coming from them. The CA-GMRS is a nice size for use in an attic, but you must recognize that its smaller size will result in different performance compared to the 712EFC. It’s lower gain, so stations that are at a higher or lower angle may be heard better. I have several Comet and Diamond antennas. They are well built and perform well for my purposes. If I needed lower gain I would have no compunction about trying the CA-GMRS. If I wanted higher gain I would get the CA-712EFC. Both will do well if you mount them correctly and use appropriate feedline. Neither will overcome topography or otherwise bad circumstances. If you truly only want to do this once, bite the bullet and get the 712. The added height is often the determining factor.

Sacrilege! Bro! Do you even radio?

This is an ideal situation for the RT97 repeater. Add a battery and a little antenna and it will sit and tick away.

Have you tried the kinetic reset yet? The procedure is generally listed in the back of the manual and very rarely printed in English. When all else fails, I generally take the radio with the power switch on and rap it against the work bench with moderate force. Sometimes it might take several tries. If that fails, take a 20 oz. framing hammer and tenderize it for about 3 minutes. While doing this don't forget to recite a few scriptures from the good book. And lastly, if it's still stubborn, just throw it against the sidewalk and walk away smiling as you finally got the last word in.

An elderly lady phoned her telephone company to report that her telephone failed to ring when her friends called -- and that on the few occasions when it did ring, her pet dog always moaned right before the phone rang. The telephone repairman proceeded to the scene, curious to see this psychic dog or senile elderly lady. He climbed a nearby telephone pole, hooked in his test set, and dialed the subscriber's house. The phone didn't ring right away, but then the dog moaned loudly and the telephone began to ring. Climbing down from the pole, the telephone repairman found..... 1. The dog was tied to the telephone system's ground wire via a steel chain and collar. 2. The wire connection to the ground rod was loose. 3. The dog was receiving 90 volts of signaling current when the phone number was called. 4. After a couple of such jolts, the dog would start moaning and then urinate on himself and the ground. 5. The wet ground would complete the circuit, thus causing the phone to ring. .....Which goes to show that some problems CAN be fixed by pissing and moaning.

I’d bet dollars to donuts that most DB20-G users use their cigarette lighter plug for power. In my vehicle, I do, and why not?! It’s so easy to unplug and hide the equipment in a zone where I am concerned about someone breaking a window to steal it when it’s in plain sight. And for the one in my shack: the Powerwerx adapter makes it plug and play without losing the versatility of having the cigarette lighter plug, when needed.

Exactly right. Almost every car comes with a power port that accepts the cigarette lighter plug. Although the cigarette lighter plug isn’t what many of us might eventually use, it’s the closest thing there is to being universally available and works well for these low power radios allowing them to be used immediately.

I also can't speak to "the best", but of the radios in that range I've tried. I pretty much agree with @SvenMarbles's review. It pretty much just does everything most of us want it to do (and in many cases a decent chunk more).

If i have learned anything from this forum it is that "some people" care! They care very, VERY much.. Its sad, but it is true.

You seem to be pretty obsessed with regulations and what other people do. I’m gonna find an old “Junior Trooper” sticker badge and send it to you. Be sure you wear it whenever you wear your Radio Shack helmet, the one with the flashing red light on top. …..but only when you’re taking enforcement action! Edit: below from your Sept post. You called the FCC?! Man, life is too short to be wound this tightly.

Honestly where do I begin with this thread? Do I delete it all? Censor the language? Remove the inflammatory posts? Or do I leave it up because @SteveShannon and others have a therapeutic way of handling this argument and we are so close to getting 2 people to apologize and let things cool naturally. In that case, the lesson in putting aside our differences, on the Internet of all places, would be so much better than leaving the profanity and the references to disabled people. Hopefully you guys can pause, come to a gentlemanly agreement to disagree at the very least, and apologize. Right now that kind of resolution would do the country, and the world, a bunch of good right now. We need more of that before we descend into another civil war some day.

FCC Line A also excludes people in Seattle, Detroit, Ann Arbor, Lansing, Michigan's Upper Peninsula, most of I80/90 through Ohio, Buffalo, Syracuse, Montpelier and 75% of Maine, from using GMRS channels 19 and 21.