WyoJoe

John,
I've seen that post before and it definitely contains some great info. It helped me to realize that RG- series cable isn't sufficient for runs of even a moderate length (~30 to 50 feet) unless you are willing to accept the significant losses.
That's really what it boils down to: how much loss (for both Rx and Tx) are you willing to accept in your feedline?
Obviously, there will be some losses regardless of what you use. They can be minimized by keeping your runs as short as possible, and using the best feedline for your situation. Your information helps us to make informed decisions about what feedline works best from a cost vs. performance perspective.

John,
I've seen that post before and it definitely contains some great info. It helped me to realize that RG- series cable isn't sufficient for runs of even a moderate length (~30 to 50 feet) unless you are willing to accept the significant losses.
That's really what it boils down to: how much loss (for both Rx and Tx) are you willing to accept in your feedline?
Obviously, there will be some losses regardless of what you use. They can be minimized by keeping your runs as short as possible, and using the best feedline for your situation. Your information helps us to make informed decisions about what feedline works best from a cost vs. performance perspective.

As Sshannon mentioned, you want to add the frequencies shown. Those are the receive frequencies that the repeaters output.
The (-) and (+) indicate the transmitter offset, but are only needed when programming your radio to transmit to the repeater.

Is this an "all or nothing" option for your radio, or do you have the option to select wide or narrow by the channel? Perhaps you could add some custom narrow band entries with the same frequencies as channels 15 - 21 in channel slots 8 - 14, and leave 15 - 22 as wide band?

I didn't have to change any clock settings to enable wide band on my repeater. I just created a desktop short cut to the application and added the "-d" switch to the filename string in this format: <filename>.exe -d
That's what worked for me, though your mileage may vary...

I don't remember how much I've used either of them, since it's been a while for either one, but the KG-1000G and KG-UV9G applications have worked for me in Linux.
I've also had success with CPS applications from Radioddity, Anytone, Ailunce (Retevis), and Vertex running in Linux.

I didn't have to change any clock settings to enable wide band on my repeater. I just created a desktop short cut to the application and added the "-d" switch to the filename string in this format: <filename>.exe -d
That's what worked for me, though your mileage may vary...

You mobile or HT radio transmits on the 467 frequency and receives on the 462 frequency.
That means the repeater has to RECEIVE (from your HT or mobile) on 467 and TRANSMIT (back to your HT or mobile) on 462.
So the high side of the duplexer goes to receive, and low side to transmit.

Do you have a programming cable and the necessary software for programming the repeater? Assuming you have a suitable computer and the aforementioned software and cable, the programming of the repeater is pretty simple. The CE-27 software is needed, but I used the -d switch for the executable to allow it to enter "dealer" mode. In my case, the executable file is CE27Win.exe, so I ran it as "CE27Win.exe -d" to access the dealer mode. I believe this was required to allow me to set the repeater to wide band. It's probably obvious that since the executable file is an exe extension, it is intended to run on Windows. I actually use mine in Linux with WINE set up for Windows compatibility.
The next thing you'll want to do is to read the programming from the repeater and then save the original file. Immediately rename the file to something else so the original file does not become corrupted. I usually include the date that I saved the file in the file name so I can see when the file was created.
Once you've renamed the file, you can edit the table to enter the values you want to use. You have 16 channels to choose from, and can add CTCSS and/or DCS codes for the transmit and receive frequencies, adjust power levels, set wide/narrow options and simplex/duplex options, among other things as desired. Once you have it set as desired, save it again, then write it to the repeater.
Here's how I have mine programmed currently:

I am using a duplexer tuned to the 462.625/467.625 frequency pair, so as you can see, most of the channels are programmed for that pair's Tx and Rx frequencies. I did this to give me a lot of options for tones and power settings. Channels 15 and 16 are one step above or below, just in case I need to set the repeater to a different frequency pair which should work okay with the duplexer.
The first eight channels are set for either high or low power for each of four CTCSS decoder (receive) codes. If desired, encoder codes can also be set, but mine are set to "off" (no code used). Channels 9-12 use DCS  for decoder codes instead of CTCSS, and again are programmed for high and low power for each of the DCS codes used. The CW-ID option is set for all channels because I've programmed my call sign into the repeater and set it to ID every 15 minutes. This can be configured in the CW-ID section of the "common" menu. I don't recall whether or not I changed any of the other settings, but the settings shown are working for me.
I hope this helps.

Do you have a programming cable and the necessary software for programming the repeater? Assuming you have a suitable computer and the aforementioned software and cable, the programming of the repeater is pretty simple. The CE-27 software is needed, but I used the -d switch for the executable to allow it to enter "dealer" mode. In my case, the executable file is CE27Win.exe, so I ran it as "CE27Win.exe -d" to access the dealer mode. I believe this was required to allow me to set the repeater to wide band. It's probably obvious that since the executable file is an exe extension, it is intended to run on Windows. I actually use mine in Linux with WINE set up for Windows compatibility.
The next thing you'll want to do is to read the programming from the repeater and then save the original file. Immediately rename the file to something else so the original file does not become corrupted. I usually include the date that I saved the file in the file name so I can see when the file was created.
Once you've renamed the file, you can edit the table to enter the values you want to use. You have 16 channels to choose from, and can add CTCSS and/or DCS codes for the transmit and receive frequencies, adjust power levels, set wide/narrow options and simplex/duplex options, among other things as desired. Once you have it set as desired, save it again, then write it to the repeater.
Here's how I have mine programmed currently:

I am using a duplexer tuned to the 462.625/467.625 frequency pair, so as you can see, most of the channels are programmed for that pair's Tx and Rx frequencies. I did this to give me a lot of options for tones and power settings. Channels 15 and 16 are one step above or below, just in case I need to set the repeater to a different frequency pair which should work okay with the duplexer.
The first eight channels are set for either high or low power for each of four CTCSS decoder (receive) codes. If desired, encoder codes can also be set, but mine are set to "off" (no code used). Channels 9-12 use DCS  for decoder codes instead of CTCSS, and again are programmed for high and low power for each of the DCS codes used. The CW-ID option is set for all channels because I've programmed my call sign into the repeater and set it to ID every 15 minutes. This can be configured in the CW-ID section of the "common" menu. I don't recall whether or not I changed any of the other settings, but the settings shown are working for me.
I hope this helps.

MURS is license by rule like FRS and CB, but not GMRS. GMRS requires a user to obtain a license.

While this is not a spreadsheet, these are the basic things you need:
1. Receiver - This is the radio that receives the incoming signal on the 467.xxx (repeater input) frequency
2. Transmitter - This is the radio that takes the received signal and re-transmits it on the 462.xxx (repeater output) frequency
3. Repeater Controller - This is the device that connects the receiver to the transmitter, and may add repeater ID functionality, and other features. Some radios like the Wouxon KG-1000G have repeater functions built in, so only a patch cable is required to connect the receiver to the transmitter.
4. Receiving antenna - can be combined with the transmitting antenna when using a duplexer
5. Transmitting antenna - can be combined with the receiving antenna when using a duplexer
6. Appropriate feedline for each antenna
7. Source of power for receiver and transmitter
8. Duplexer (optional) - allows receiver and transmitter to both use the same antenna and feedline, eliminating the need for a second antenna and feedline.
 
While the items above are what is needed, there are a lot of nuances that come into play. While theoretically you might be able to build a repeater using any combination of each of the above items, many things just may not work well in this circumstance. Certain combinations work well, while other combinations just don't do so.
If you obtain a purpose-built repeater, such as a Vertex VXR-7000 or Retevis RT-97, it will combine at least items 1, 2, and 3 into a single device.
You can use a duplexer to allow the use of only one antenna and feedline for both receive and transmit. Of course, if you do, you'll also need the appropriate patch cables to connect the duplexer to the receiver and transmitter. The Retevis RT-97 includes a built-in duplexer, and on other repeater models a duplexer may be included, but often is not.
About the simplest way to get a repeater up and running is to use a purpose built device like the Retevis RT-97, along with a decent antenna and feedline, as well as an appropriate power source. Because it is a relatively low power unit, many people use it with a solar panel and 12V battery, rather than connecting it to the "grid." This is often done in a portable configuration using a "roll-up" J-pole antenna hoisted into a tree.
Overall, a repeater is, in many ways, like a car. A car has an engine, transmission, wheels, and so on, while a repeater has the parts mentioned above. It is a system of component parts, which when properly matched, performs well the function for which it was intended. If they are not properly matched, the system will not work well.
For more information, you might want to check out repeater-builder.com.
 

The DB20-G/Anytone AT-779UV twins can do what you want. They don't work with Chirp, though, so the factory software is the only programming software I know of that works with them currently. They also put out about the same amount of power (15 to 18 watts), and can be unlocked to allow use on UHF & VHF ham frequencies. I've experienced some quirks with the factory software, but if you know what to expect, it works reasonably well.
I have one in my truck and another at my desk. Both of them are programmed to use my family repeater, but also to monitor a nearby 70cm ham repeater. These are both in channels that I added after the existing 30 "standard" channels.

MURS is license by rule like FRS and CB, but not GMRS. GMRS requires a user to obtain a license.

MURS is license by rule like FRS and CB, but not GMRS. GMRS requires a user to obtain a license.

How about channel 2 for motorcycles; 4 for cars, SUVs, and pickups (or what the truckers call "4 wheelers"); 10 for three-axle box vans; and 18 for your typical 18-wheeler? Perhaps even channel 1 for unicycles...

It's a very easy thing to do. Pressing the V/M button as you power on the radio allows you to select the frequency range of the radio from a list of four or five options. Of course, once the radio is modified, it nullifies the Part 95e certification until you return it to its original configuration. That doesn't matter to some, but it may matter to others.

I was going to chime in on the 3200 mAh battery, but then I remembered that it can't be charged by USB, so the charging cradle is required. As Michael mentioned, you get a charging cradle with the UV-88 if you purchase one. I believe the charging cradle is also available separately, though it may be a better value to buy the radio package.
Retevis is selling a two-pack of the RT85 3200 mAh batteries for less than $20. They are listed for their RT85 radio, which is a clone of the UV-88, and priced about the same for a single radio. They discount multi-packs of the RT85, so if you're looking for additional radios, these could be a reasonable value.
The attached picture shows what I call "ribs" (designated by the arrows in the picture) that need to be removed for the latch to work correctly on the GM-30. These are the "notches" mentioned by Michael. On my GM-30 radios, the battery would come loose because the latch would not engage until the ribs were removed from the batteries.

I was going to chime in on the 3200 mAh battery, but then I remembered that it can't be charged by USB, so the charging cradle is required. As Michael mentioned, you get a charging cradle with the UV-88 if you purchase one. I believe the charging cradle is also available separately, though it may be a better value to buy the radio package.
Retevis is selling a two-pack of the RT85 3200 mAh batteries for less than $20. They are listed for their RT85 radio, which is a clone of the UV-88, and priced about the same for a single radio. They discount multi-packs of the RT85, so if you're looking for additional radios, these could be a reasonable value.
The attached picture shows what I call "ribs" (designated by the arrows in the picture) that need to be removed for the latch to work correctly on the GM-30. These are the "notches" mentioned by Michael. On my GM-30 radios, the battery would come loose because the latch would not engage until the ribs were removed from the batteries.

While this is not a spreadsheet, these are the basic things you need:
1. Receiver - This is the radio that receives the incoming signal on the 467.xxx (repeater input) frequency
2. Transmitter - This is the radio that takes the received signal and re-transmits it on the 462.xxx (repeater output) frequency
3. Repeater Controller - This is the device that connects the receiver to the transmitter, and may add repeater ID functionality, and other features. Some radios like the Wouxon KG-1000G have repeater functions built in, so only a patch cable is required to connect the receiver to the transmitter.
4. Receiving antenna - can be combined with the transmitting antenna when using a duplexer
5. Transmitting antenna - can be combined with the receiving antenna when using a duplexer
6. Appropriate feedline for each antenna
7. Source of power for receiver and transmitter
8. Duplexer (optional) - allows receiver and transmitter to both use the same antenna and feedline, eliminating the need for a second antenna and feedline.
 
While the items above are what is needed, there are a lot of nuances that come into play. While theoretically you might be able to build a repeater using any combination of each of the above items, many things just may not work well in this circumstance. Certain combinations work well, while other combinations just don't do so.
If you obtain a purpose-built repeater, such as a Vertex VXR-7000 or Retevis RT-97, it will combine at least items 1, 2, and 3 into a single device.
You can use a duplexer to allow the use of only one antenna and feedline for both receive and transmit. Of course, if you do, you'll also need the appropriate patch cables to connect the duplexer to the receiver and transmitter. The Retevis RT-97 includes a built-in duplexer, and on other repeater models a duplexer may be included, but often is not.
About the simplest way to get a repeater up and running is to use a purpose built device like the Retevis RT-97, along with a decent antenna and feedline, as well as an appropriate power source. Because it is a relatively low power unit, many people use it with a solar panel and 12V battery, rather than connecting it to the "grid." This is often done in a portable configuration using a "roll-up" J-pole antenna hoisted into a tree.
Overall, a repeater is, in many ways, like a car. A car has an engine, transmission, wheels, and so on, while a repeater has the parts mentioned above. It is a system of component parts, which when properly matched, performs well the function for which it was intended. If they are not properly matched, the system will not work well.
For more information, you might want to check out repeater-builder.com.
 

While this is not a spreadsheet, these are the basic things you need:
1. Receiver - This is the radio that receives the incoming signal on the 467.xxx (repeater input) frequency
2. Transmitter - This is the radio that takes the received signal and re-transmits it on the 462.xxx (repeater output) frequency
3. Repeater Controller - This is the device that connects the receiver to the transmitter, and may add repeater ID functionality, and other features. Some radios like the Wouxon KG-1000G have repeater functions built in, so only a patch cable is required to connect the receiver to the transmitter.
4. Receiving antenna - can be combined with the transmitting antenna when using a duplexer
5. Transmitting antenna - can be combined with the receiving antenna when using a duplexer
6. Appropriate feedline for each antenna
7. Source of power for receiver and transmitter
8. Duplexer (optional) - allows receiver and transmitter to both use the same antenna and feedline, eliminating the need for a second antenna and feedline.
 
While the items above are what is needed, there are a lot of nuances that come into play. While theoretically you might be able to build a repeater using any combination of each of the above items, many things just may not work well in this circumstance. Certain combinations work well, while other combinations just don't do so.
If you obtain a purpose-built repeater, such as a Vertex VXR-7000 or Retevis RT-97, it will combine at least items 1, 2, and 3 into a single device.
You can use a duplexer to allow the use of only one antenna and feedline for both receive and transmit. Of course, if you do, you'll also need the appropriate patch cables to connect the duplexer to the receiver and transmitter. The Retevis RT-97 includes a built-in duplexer, and on other repeater models a duplexer may be included, but often is not.
About the simplest way to get a repeater up and running is to use a purpose built device like the Retevis RT-97, along with a decent antenna and feedline, as well as an appropriate power source. Because it is a relatively low power unit, many people use it with a solar panel and 12V battery, rather than connecting it to the "grid." This is often done in a portable configuration using a "roll-up" J-pole antenna hoisted into a tree.
Overall, a repeater is, in many ways, like a car. A car has an engine, transmission, wheels, and so on, while a repeater has the parts mentioned above. It is a system of component parts, which when properly matched, performs well the function for which it was intended. If they are not properly matched, the system will not work well.
For more information, you might want to check out repeater-builder.com.
 

The radio will work for both bands. I believe you can select the mode by holding down the V/M button as you power on the radio.
Keep in mind, however, the Part 95e certification of the radio is for its use on the GMRS band. When you change the mode, and alter the configuration of the radio to allow it to transmit outside of the GMRS band, you negate the Part 95e certification. Some people operate the radio in the mode that allows it to transmit on both the ham and GMRS bands so they don't need to have two different radios.

While this is not a spreadsheet, these are the basic things you need:
1. Receiver - This is the radio that receives the incoming signal on the 467.xxx (repeater input) frequency
2. Transmitter - This is the radio that takes the received signal and re-transmits it on the 462.xxx (repeater output) frequency
3. Repeater Controller - This is the device that connects the receiver to the transmitter, and may add repeater ID functionality, and other features. Some radios like the Wouxon KG-1000G have repeater functions built in, so only a patch cable is required to connect the receiver to the transmitter.
4. Receiving antenna - can be combined with the transmitting antenna when using a duplexer
5. Transmitting antenna - can be combined with the receiving antenna when using a duplexer
6. Appropriate feedline for each antenna
7. Source of power for receiver and transmitter
8. Duplexer (optional) - allows receiver and transmitter to both use the same antenna and feedline, eliminating the need for a second antenna and feedline.
 
While the items above are what is needed, there are a lot of nuances that come into play. While theoretically you might be able to build a repeater using any combination of each of the above items, many things just may not work well in this circumstance. Certain combinations work well, while other combinations just don't do so.
If you obtain a purpose-built repeater, such as a Vertex VXR-7000 or Retevis RT-97, it will combine at least items 1, 2, and 3 into a single device.
You can use a duplexer to allow the use of only one antenna and feedline for both receive and transmit. Of course, if you do, you'll also need the appropriate patch cables to connect the duplexer to the receiver and transmitter. The Retevis RT-97 includes a built-in duplexer, and on other repeater models a duplexer may be included, but often is not.
About the simplest way to get a repeater up and running is to use a purpose built device like the Retevis RT-97, along with a decent antenna and feedline, as well as an appropriate power source. Because it is a relatively low power unit, many people use it with a solar panel and 12V battery, rather than connecting it to the "grid." This is often done in a portable configuration using a "roll-up" J-pole antenna hoisted into a tree.
Overall, a repeater is, in many ways, like a car. A car has an engine, transmission, wheels, and so on, while a repeater has the parts mentioned above. It is a system of component parts, which when properly matched, performs well the function for which it was intended. If they are not properly matched, the system will not work well.
For more information, you might want to check out repeater-builder.com.
 

I've been using a Tekpower TP50SW for about 7 years. I can't remember if it even has a fan, as I don't recall ever hearing it. I can't say how good the RF Filtering is either, as I've never heard anything on any of my radios that I could attribute to the power supply. I've used it with numerous radios without ever hearing any perceptible interference from it.
Edited to add: I looked it up online (easier than pulling it off the shelf), and the TP50SW does have a fan. I still can't recall ever hearing it. I also found info on another feature that I forgot it had: "noise offset." If the power supply does create interference at a specific frequency, it can be adjusted to move the noise out of the band being used.

How about channel 2 for motorcycles; 4 for cars, SUVs, and pickups (or what the truckers call "4 wheelers"); 10 for three-axle box vans; and 18 for your typical 18-wheeler? Perhaps even channel 1 for unicycles...