SpeedSpeak2Me

@PuddlePirate, I have this mobile rig, and don't let it overwhelm you, it's a great radio (transceiver).  Couple of quick suggestions, once you've become familiar with the amateur radio terms and what they do...
First, grab the RT System software for it, and the programming cable.  It'll help with the programming of the radio (memories, limits, settings, etc.), and it is way better than the Yaesu proprietary software.  Additionally, if you do get other rigs that RTS supports, it will make it easier to port your memory channels between them.
Second, read the manuals (Owner Manual, Advanced Manual) a few times.  There is a lot to digest, and it can get overwhelming fairly quickly.  Since it sounds like you'll be primarily using it for analog, take note in the Owners Manual of page 28.  Particularly where it shows the different modes (analog, digital narrow, digital wide, etc.).  Using the DX button on the top of the face lets you switch between them.  You can also tap the upper right corner of the screen to change the modes.  It doesn't take much to accidentally switch to the wrong mode and make it difficult to communicate.  Short version, if there is a line over the letters, it's in automatic mode (AMS).  That will allow the radio to automatically switch the to mode it is receiving.  *the DW and VW modes require a settings change in the full menu (#14) to enable "wide" mode.
Each memory channel can be individually programmed to the mode you want to use.  Additionally, if you happen to program in the wrong one, and then change it on the radio, it will automatically save it to the memory for you.  Just be sure to "read" from the radio before making changes in the programming software, that way your latest settings will be captured.  Doesn't hurt to make versions of the codeplug (save files) so you can go back if a mistake is made.
 

@PuddlePirate, I have this mobile rig, and don't let it overwhelm you, it's a great radio (transceiver).  Couple of quick suggestions, once you've become familiar with the amateur radio terms and what they do...
First, grab the RT System software for it, and the programming cable.  It'll help with the programming of the radio (memories, limits, settings, etc.), and it is way better than the Yaesu proprietary software.  Additionally, if you do get other rigs that RTS supports, it will make it easier to port your memory channels between them.
Second, read the manuals (Owner Manual, Advanced Manual) a few times.  There is a lot to digest, and it can get overwhelming fairly quickly.  Since it sounds like you'll be primarily using it for analog, take note in the Owners Manual of page 28.  Particularly where it shows the different modes (analog, digital narrow, digital wide, etc.).  Using the DX button on the top of the face lets you switch between them.  You can also tap the upper right corner of the screen to change the modes.  It doesn't take much to accidentally switch to the wrong mode and make it difficult to communicate.  Short version, if there is a line over the letters, it's in automatic mode (AMS).  That will allow the radio to automatically switch the to mode it is receiving.  *the DW and VW modes require a settings change in the full menu (#14) to enable "wide" mode.
Each memory channel can be individually programmed to the mode you want to use.  Additionally, if you happen to program in the wrong one, and then change it on the radio, it will automatically save it to the memory for you.  Just be sure to "read" from the radio before making changes in the programming software, that way your latest settings will be captured.  Doesn't hurt to make versions of the codeplug (save files) so you can go back if a mistake is made.
 

@PuddlePirate, I have this mobile rig, and don't let it overwhelm you, it's a great radio (transceiver).  Couple of quick suggestions, once you've become familiar with the amateur radio terms and what they do...
First, grab the RT System software for it, and the programming cable.  It'll help with the programming of the radio (memories, limits, settings, etc.), and it is way better than the Yaesu proprietary software.  Additionally, if you do get other rigs that RTS supports, it will make it easier to port your memory channels between them.
Second, read the manuals (Owner Manual, Advanced Manual) a few times.  There is a lot to digest, and it can get overwhelming fairly quickly.  Since it sounds like you'll be primarily using it for analog, take note in the Owners Manual of page 28.  Particularly where it shows the different modes (analog, digital narrow, digital wide, etc.).  Using the DX button on the top of the face lets you switch between them.  You can also tap the upper right corner of the screen to change the modes.  It doesn't take much to accidentally switch to the wrong mode and make it difficult to communicate.  Short version, if there is a line over the letters, it's in automatic mode (AMS).  That will allow the radio to automatically switch the to mode it is receiving.  *the DW and VW modes require a settings change in the full menu (#14) to enable "wide" mode.
Each memory channel can be individually programmed to the mode you want to use.  Additionally, if you happen to program in the wrong one, and then change it on the radio, it will automatically save it to the memory for you.  Just be sure to "read" from the radio before making changes in the programming software, that way your latest settings will be captured.  Doesn't hurt to make versions of the codeplug (save files) so you can go back if a mistake is made.
 

@PuddlePirate, I have this mobile rig, and don't let it overwhelm you, it's a great radio (transceiver).  Couple of quick suggestions, once you've become familiar with the amateur radio terms and what they do...
First, grab the RT System software for it, and the programming cable.  It'll help with the programming of the radio (memories, limits, settings, etc.), and it is way better than the Yaesu proprietary software.  Additionally, if you do get other rigs that RTS supports, it will make it easier to port your memory channels between them.
Second, read the manuals (Owner Manual, Advanced Manual) a few times.  There is a lot to digest, and it can get overwhelming fairly quickly.  Since it sounds like you'll be primarily using it for analog, take note in the Owners Manual of page 28.  Particularly where it shows the different modes (analog, digital narrow, digital wide, etc.).  Using the DX button on the top of the face lets you switch between them.  You can also tap the upper right corner of the screen to change the modes.  It doesn't take much to accidentally switch to the wrong mode and make it difficult to communicate.  Short version, if there is a line over the letters, it's in automatic mode (AMS).  That will allow the radio to automatically switch the to mode it is receiving.  *the DW and VW modes require a settings change in the full menu (#14) to enable "wide" mode.
Each memory channel can be individually programmed to the mode you want to use.  Additionally, if you happen to program in the wrong one, and then change it on the radio, it will automatically save it to the memory for you.  Just be sure to "read" from the radio before making changes in the programming software, that way your latest settings will be captured.  Doesn't hurt to make versions of the codeplug (save files) so you can go back if a mistake is made.
 

Just a note, contrary to what most of the internet experts are saying, CHIRP-next does not work with the UV-5G Plus, even if you select a different model to "fake" it.  You will get a read error.  If anyone says that it does, ask for the actual proof.  The request to support this model was submitted back in December (2023).
To program via computer, you have to use the proprietary CPS (Customer Programmable Software), and it is Windows only.  It's also not very good.

Something to keep in mind with that model, is that even when Repeater mode is enabled, and you are using the RP channels, it will be set to NFM (Narrow FM).  You have to send it to Midland to ask them to change it to WFM (Wide FM) for the repeater channels.  They don't charge you for it, but still kind of a pain.  Will it prevent you from using a repeater?  No, but the audio won't sound as good.  The repeater will sound quiet to you, since you're hearing only 1/2 of the bandwidth.  When you are transmitting to the repeater, others will hear you fine, but your voice won't sound as full, since you're transmitting using only half the bandwidth.

If you do send it in to be updated, the WFM is only for the RP (repeater) channels.  So if you're on CH 16 simplex, it's going to be NFM.  One of the shortcomings of the radio.  Other than a goofy menu system (including their listings of CTCSS/DCS tones), the radio itself is just fine for simplex communications, and actually sounds decent.

Would need to know which part of the VHF band the antenna is for.  If it was for an amateur radio 2m (144-148 MHz) repeater, it probably won't work very well for GMRS, since the GMRS frequencies are not a harmonic of 2m.  If it was used for MURS, you might be able to get away with it, but performance will still suffer.  Also, I wouldn't use a radio with an inline SWR meter to do your testing.  You really don't know what you're transmitting into.  I would find someone with a quality antenna analyzer (like a RigExpert) that covers a wide range of frequencies.

You also don't know the state of the hardline, it might have a break in it.  Probably don't want to be keying a radio into a broken coax.  An antenna analyzer can also tell you the length of the coax, so you'll have a good idea if the entire length is still good.

As for knowing which antenna the hardline is going to, aside from tracing it, I don't know of a good way to test that.  More seasoned forum members might have some ideas.

I believe it was used for the 154-155 MHz.  Thanks for the input.

No.  The batteries are different sizes (width and thickness), and the contact plates are in different locations:
Battery on left is for the UV-5G Plus, on the right is the standard capacity battery for the UV-5R.

No.  The batteries are different sizes (width and thickness), and the contact plates are in different locations:
Battery on left is for the UV-5G Plus, on the right is the standard capacity battery for the UV-5R.

I used the Rigexpert AA-1000 to make my measurements. 
 
The antennas are a bit sensitive to the environment where you make the measurements so I’m not a bit surprised by slightly different results. Also the antennas are all hand built and tuned. That can result in differences too.
I haven’t heard good comments about the Surecom meter. Most are about the same as yours, inaccurate results. But people like them and they keep selling. 

Interesting... I'm glad someone else analyzed the N9TAX Labs antennas.  I also have both the 2m/70cm and MRUS/GMRS versions, both with 16' of RG58U.  For the MURS/GMRS (on GMRS) using a RigExpert Stick Pro, with the antennas hanging about 12' AGL (away from vegetation), I got slightly better results:

 
2m/70cm (UHF)

 
I also found that the Surecom SW-102's (mine is the "S" model)l are wildly inaccurate.  I know they are popular, but the readings they give can be very misleading.  As an example, it told me my Browning BR-6155 (fed with 50' of LMR400UF) has an SWR of 1.01:1 at 467.6000 MHz.  My RigExpert Stick Pro, and my friend's AA-1400 both show 1.37:1 at that frequency. 

Just a note, contrary to what most of the internet experts are saying, CHIRP-next does not work with the UV-5G Plus, even if you select a different model to "fake" it.  You will get a read error.  If anyone says that it does, ask for the actual proof.  The request to support this model was submitted back in December (2023).
To program via computer, you have to use the proprietary CPS (Customer Programmable Software), and it is Windows only.  It's also not very good.

No problem, sir.  Hopefully the brain-trust at DanPlanet will be able to add it to their ever-growing list of supported models.  It's a nice little GMRS only HT, with a few flaws, but overall it's decent.

Typically, the higher you go into the atmosphere, the colder it gets. However, a rapid influx of high pressure can cause a temperature inversion. This pushes a layer of warmer air up into the troposphere.  These rapid transitions will typically occur in Spring and Fall when there are very rapid temperature changes during sun rise and sunset.  While it occurs in the Spring, it's most prevalent in Fall.

Would it be safe to presume that you sent an access request to the repeater owner, and received the private PL tones (either CTCSS or DCS) ?  If not, you will need to do that before you can access the repeater.  If you do have that information, verify that your radio (transceiver) is set up correctly (input/output frequency (offset), and tones (decode/encode)).  If everything is set correctly, are you within range of the repeater?  Crete does have a very large footprint.
Also, was the net already in session?  Were they asking for check-ins?  Is it possible you doubled (keyed at the same time) as someone else, and weren't heard?
Let's get through these questions before going further.

IF only there was youtube channel out there that has done at least one video on every single one of those topics!

If the reason you hijacked the thread was because you saw @OffRoaderX was here and you thought this was a good way to get his attention, a more appropriate way would be to create a new thread and tag him by typing the @ sign, then his username. Like this: @WRZM228
Of course if you’ve been ignored that won’t work. (How’s that for an attempt to bring the thread back to the OP’s topic?) 😁

As @wayoverthere stated, the Midland MXT115 is not computer programmable.  In order to use it with repeaters you have to use the FPP to enable the Repeater menu, so that you can set the CTCSS or DCS code.  Midland also uses a LUT (Look Up Table) for the PL Tones.  So you can't just program in 67.0 or DCS023N, you have to know what their value in the table is.  Additionally, as of last year that model comes from the factory as NFM (Narrow FM), even on the repeater channels.  So unless they are now shipping them out with WFM enabled for repeaters, you have to send it to Midland for them to update the firmware.  That's only with the USB-C models, as the USB-Type A are not upgradeable to WFM.

As @wayoverthere stated, the Midland MXT115 is not computer programmable.  In order to use it with repeaters you have to use the FPP to enable the Repeater menu, so that you can set the CTCSS or DCS code.  Midland also uses a LUT (Look Up Table) for the PL Tones.  So you can't just program in 67.0 or DCS023N, you have to know what their value in the table is.  Additionally, as of last year that model comes from the factory as NFM (Narrow FM), even on the repeater channels.  So unless they are now shipping them out with WFM enabled for repeaters, you have to send it to Midland for them to update the firmware.  That's only with the USB-C models, as the USB-Type A are not upgradeable to WFM.

Man, Moto is not even close to the same category as any of those radios.  You are comparing radios that were $3,000 to $5,000 new, to radios that are $150 to $500 new.  That is like comparing a an economy Honda to Bugatti. 
 
I am very fond of Wouxun, especially the KG-1000G.  The brand stacks up very well when compared to Yaesu, but I think Yeasu makes a better radio with many more available features.  I would put Wouxun on par with Icom, Kenwood, Alinco. 
 
I don't consider Anytone, Powerwerx or TYT in the same category of any of the aforementioned brands.  They are really budget brand radios.  I don't look down on them, but they just won't have the same longevity, features, durability, stability or performance as the higher tier brands.
 
Also, I a assuming you are either asking for use an amateur bands or just general speaking.  Moto is the only brand mentioned that has models that have the ability to be legally used in GMRS.  All the other brands are good for amateur bands, and some will have LMR/business options, too.
 
 

You're quite welcome for the information, and don't feel bad.  When I first got into GMRS I picked up one of the Nagoya UT-72G antennas based on other people's recommendations.  I got two from two different resellers and they were both junk.  The SWRs for simplex were 1.77:1, and at the repeater inputs it was almost 2.10:1.  Some will say anything under 2:1  is okay, but i just wasn't comfortable using something that was that far off, when I knew there was better.  I did have people tell me I got the wrong antenna, that I got the UT-72 (2m/70cm) by ignorance.  However I have that antenna as well, so I had a direct comparison (at the end of this post).  The UT-72 performs slightly better than the UT-72G on GMRS.
Having invested in the quality equipment (the RigExpert), it really lets me know exactly what is going on.  I did my testing on three different vehicles, all with more than enough area for a ground plane, and got the same results for both antennas (UT-72G) on all three vehicles.  Where some initial mistakes were made was using an inexpensive inline SWR meter, the Surecom SW102.  It's good for confirming your TX frequency and power (when used with a 50Ω dummy load), and that's about all I trust it for.  Others have had measured success with them, but when compared to a quality antenna analyzer, they just don't hold up.  At least that is what I have found with my use of them, YMMV.
I use 3.25" bases with both of my 32" antennas and have no issues, even at highway speeds.  You have to be careful with the base size, as I have found that too large of a magnetic base will impact your tuning.  For example I helped a person that purchased a 6" mag mount, and from experience I could tell before we did any trimming of his Laird BB4503 that something was wrong. The SWR's were way too high, and the "shape" (peaks/valleys) were in the wrong places.  We switched them to a 3.25" base and the antenna went to where it should have been.
The reason is, I believe, and more knowledgeable persons on here can correct me if I am wrong, is that due to the requirement of needing at least 1/4 wavelength ground plane (about 6.3" / 16cm), the diameter of the base was interfering with the ground plane itself.
For reference, this is the mag mount that I use, which has 12' of RG8X, and is paired with the BB4505CN or BB4502N.
Laird TE Connectivity GB8X
I also have this base with 12' of RG58/U, with the removable rubber boot, and pair it with the BB4505C or the BB4503.
Laird TE Connectivity GBR8PI
The GB8PI is the same as the GBR8PI, but without the rubber boot. So you're basically being charged $7-8 for the boot, which isn't required, nor does it hurt its performance.

Now, I do say "as a reference" because The Antenna Farm is closed until Summer of 2024, but they are still an excellent resource.  An alternative mount, which I have yet to hear anything negative about is the Midland MXTA12 mag mount.  It is also more readily available, and is 3.5" in diameter.  To go further with that, Midland's MXTA26 GMRS NMO antenna is also an excellent performer, and requires no tuning.  These two items are very often paired with each other.
I have Midland's MXTA13 mag mount, which is a 1/4λ, with a 1" magnet, 6" mast, and 20' of spaghetti (RG-174) for coax.  It performs better than I ever would have given it credit for, even with the massive amount of attenuation from the coax, which is about 20dB per 100', which is a lot.  However it works in a pinch for temporary use, and over flat terrain I can hit repeaters 30 miles away with just 15w.
As mentioned above (both antennas on the same vehicle, positioned in the same place).  Sweep is 400-500 MHz.
Red - Nagoya UT-72G
Blue - Nagoya UT-72

Thank you for the followup and information. I'll be getting the B4505CN chrome whip. It should be easier to tune and match that antenna too and hopefully they'll recommend me to keep this magnamount. I really like it and quite strong and 1/3 of a size of a K40 Magnamount. Its got a rubber feet, 12 ft LMR-195 cable and high grade connector. Th lenght is more than enough for my needs while I was getting a 1.02 SWR in the 450 frequency range. I hope this can handle the 32 inch Laird whip antenna too..
Heavy Duty Magnetic NMO Mount for CB, VHF, UHF, GMRS Radios with PL-259. RNMOM-195-SUM-B-12I-ST
 


 

First, I've had nothing good experiences with The Antenna Farm as well, and hope to see them get back on track in the new year.
Second, most of the mag mounts I've used have been the mxta12's, and they've worked well for me, both on that 32" 2x5/8 wave Browning, and the 36" long comet 2x4sr. They've hung on fine on the roof of my little truck even close to 90mph, along with dragging a signal stalk across all the ceiling beams in the 7' clearance parking structure at work (5 or 6 floors worth, depending where I found a spot). The only time it actually came off in the year I had it up was once, with a direct hit on the comet on a solid (2"+ diameter) tree branch

You're quite welcome for the information, and don't feel bad.  When I first got into GMRS I picked up one of the Nagoya UT-72G antennas based on other people's recommendations.  I got two from two different resellers and they were both junk.  The SWRs for simplex were 1.77:1, and at the repeater inputs it was almost 2.10:1.  Some will say anything under 2:1  is okay, but i just wasn't comfortable using something that was that far off, when I knew there was better.  I did have people tell me I got the wrong antenna, that I got the UT-72 (2m/70cm) by ignorance.  However I have that antenna as well, so I had a direct comparison (at the end of this post).  The UT-72 performs slightly better than the UT-72G on GMRS.
Having invested in the quality equipment (the RigExpert), it really lets me know exactly what is going on.  I did my testing on three different vehicles, all with more than enough area for a ground plane, and got the same results for both antennas (UT-72G) on all three vehicles.  Where some initial mistakes were made was using an inexpensive inline SWR meter, the Surecom SW102.  It's good for confirming your TX frequency and power (when used with a 50Ω dummy load), and that's about all I trust it for.  Others have had measured success with them, but when compared to a quality antenna analyzer, they just don't hold up.  At least that is what I have found with my use of them, YMMV.
I use 3.25" bases with both of my 32" antennas and have no issues, even at highway speeds.  You have to be careful with the base size, as I have found that too large of a magnetic base will impact your tuning.  For example I helped a person that purchased a 6" mag mount, and from experience I could tell before we did any trimming of his Laird BB4503 that something was wrong. The SWR's were way too high, and the "shape" (peaks/valleys) were in the wrong places.  We switched them to a 3.25" base and the antenna went to where it should have been.
The reason is, I believe, and more knowledgeable persons on here can correct me if I am wrong, is that due to the requirement of needing at least 1/4 wavelength ground plane (about 6.3" / 16cm), the diameter of the base was interfering with the ground plane itself.
For reference, this is the mag mount that I use, which has 12' of RG8X, and is paired with the BB4505CN or BB4502N.
Laird TE Connectivity GB8X
I also have this base with 12' of RG58/U, with the removable rubber boot, and pair it with the BB4505C or the BB4503.
Laird TE Connectivity GBR8PI
The GB8PI is the same as the GBR8PI, but without the rubber boot. So you're basically being charged $7-8 for the boot, which isn't required, nor does it hurt its performance.

Now, I do say "as a reference" because The Antenna Farm is closed until Summer of 2024, but they are still an excellent resource.  An alternative mount, which I have yet to hear anything negative about is the Midland MXTA12 mag mount.  It is also more readily available, and is 3.5" in diameter.  To go further with that, Midland's MXTA26 GMRS NMO antenna is also an excellent performer, and requires no tuning.  These two items are very often paired with each other.
I have Midland's MXTA13 mag mount, which is a 1/4λ, with a 1" magnet, 6" mast, and 20' of spaghetti (RG-174) for coax.  It performs better than I ever would have given it credit for, even with the massive amount of attenuation from the coax, which is about 20dB per 100', which is a lot.  However it works in a pinch for temporary use, and over flat terrain I can hit repeaters 30 miles away with just 15w.
As mentioned above (both antennas on the same vehicle, positioned in the same place).  Sweep is 400-500 MHz.
Red - Nagoya UT-72G
Blue - Nagoya UT-72